Verticillium doesn't always show yellowing. Sometimes, plants just wilt and leaves don't have time to go through a yellowing phase but just go from green and wilted to dead. But if large portions of the plant aren't wilting, then it's probably not verticillium. Also, aren't you growing in containers on a rooftop, IIRC from another thread? Unless you're re-using mix for tomatoes for several years in a row or filling your containers with soil from the ground or garden soil (which should not be done for a number of reasons), verticillium is not very likely.

It's hard to see what's going on in your photos. It's always more helpful to see how the damage manifests on the plant as a whole before it's pruned off and to see it in more natural lighting, although close-ups after pruning, if taken in good lighting, can also be helpful.

Also, you're posting about your problem across several posts, some of them possibly unrelated to your problem. This is going to get you jumbled advice. IMO, one gets better advice when one's specific issue is organized to one thread, and it helps other forum members keep track of who you are, the information you've already given, etc.

This doesn't look like mite damage. Your description doesn't sound like verticillium, although it's hard to tell without seeing the whole plant. I would suspect early blight or something like grey mold/botrytis. But we'd really need better photos to be able to venture a real guess.

Thank you for your response! I took a few photos this afternoon of the whole plant. Thank you again!!

What is your watering and fertilizing routine?

I water every day starting late afternoon/early evening and Try not to do it once it's nighttime. If I can I'll water in the morning. I do a few rounds of watering for each plant then wait fifteen minutes to allow absorption and prevent runoff. If it's a hot day and the plants are bone dry, I'll water the following morning. I used foxfarm grow big in the beginning then big bloom in conjunction, a round of jacks all purpose fertilizer (for its nitrogen content) after I initially transplanted my seedlings, when fruit began to set I switched over to Alaska morebloom 0-10-10, used earth juice cal-n-mag (two weeks ago) and have Epsom salts, worm castings and oyster shells in the soil. I started noticing chlorosis in my pineapple sage and basil a month ago so did a soil drench of liquniox iron and zinc. I recently bought and have used growth science nutrients base b 0-6-4.5 and rock soild 0-4-4.5.

I forgot to mention that initially this started on one of the older tomato plants, then spread to four of the older tomato plants. Now it is beginning to appear on a few of the younger (originally unaffected) tomato plants.

Likely container mix has dried and doesn't thoroughly re-moisten when watered.

Looks like lot of plants in undersized pots/containers.

Then, when you add intense sunlight exposure plus exceptional air circulation -- wind -- on a roof top , you get environmental stress.

Hi Jean, thank you for the response. Unfortunately I don't think that's it. I've been a rooftop gardener for the past six years and this is the first time I'm seeing this. Also the photos I included were of older plants that must be overgrown, but this is also occurring on plants that are younger and not over grown. I also make sure to water deeply enough that the rootball is taken care of.

Have you always used so many products in fertilizing your plants? Your regimen seems really complicated. It might be overkill, creating buildup of too many salts and minerals and creating trouble with the roots' ability to function, especially considering the pot size.

Thank you for that insight. My friends bought me a bunch of gardening supplies for my birthday so have just been using it as it comes. When fertilizing with all the products because my garden is so big I'll only use the product once or twice for each plant.

That could be the culprit for the older plants, but I'm not sure for the younger plants. You mentioned grey mold earlier, based on the other photos do you think this could be it?

Leaves crisping at the borders is usually a problem with water or something else interfering with the roots' ability to do their job.

And, although you've successfully grown in containers before, this summer has been unusually dry and hot in the NE. I would take that into consideration.

Some nutrient deficiencies also produce crispy borders. It's very easy to develop nutrient deficiencies when you piece together specialty niche products as you're doing, either by missing out on a nutrient or creating excesses of some nutrients which interfere with the take-up of others.

I find that the best policy is to get one well-balanced formula for fruiting vegetables and stick to that unless you actually see signs of an actual deficiency that needs correcting. Personally, other than a general all-purpose formula I use for seedlings, young transplants, and leaf vegetables, I just use a tomato formula for all my fruiting veg and simply supplement with extra nitrogen for plants such as peppers that like more N. Things like pre-emptively using epsom salts and mineral formulas and micronutrient formulas are more likely to cause problems than prevent them, IMO, unless you have actual soil tests done which show deficiencies in those nutrients.

I would try flushing the pots out with a LOT of water and then seeing whether things improve after that. Not chronic flushing, as that could make things boggy and lead to root rot. Just one good, serious, thorough flushing, then waiting about a week before you start feeding again and using a diluted liquid tomato formula alone when you do.