Need help diagnosing at Augustine disease

James Petty

8 years ago

Hey guys I am hoping someone can help diagnose a problem I've had for a few years in Austin tx with my at Augustine

It's very yellow with some brown spots

I have an irrigation system and fertilize so I don't think that's the issue

Any ideas?

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Comments (7)

PKponder TX Z7B
8 years ago
How often do you water? It looks like a fungus.
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bostedo: 8a tx-bp-dfw
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Since it's been like this for years, good new is that it's not Take-All Root Rot which can wipe out a lawn within a season. Otherwise yellow blades often a sign of poor iron uptake or lack of Nitrogen. There's a good summary here: Yellow St. Augustine.

Texas green sand is our primary treatment for iron chlorosis, but have also used Iron Plus - though response for these can be slow. Some spots can take multiple applications over 2 or 3 seasons to fully resolve. Applying a chelated iron foliar spray to a small area can confirm that iron uptake is the problem if it turns green. If you don't know your soil pH, a soil test would be helpful. Abnormally high pH can also cause problems with iron uptake.
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Seems like I replied to this message somewhere else???? Find some ordinary corn meal and apply over the entire yard at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Repeat in 3 weeks. Corn meal does not kill the fungus but it attracts a predatory fungus which will kill the disease. It also fertilizes the yard. You should be watering once per week in the summer heat. Water a full inch at a time or water enough to bring the rainfall up to an inch. The solution to webworms is this stuff... I believe it's about $15 for a pint (a lifetime supply). It works by causing paralysis in caterpillars. It works on contact and by eating. St Augustine does not grow or spread much in the summer heat. Wait until the temps cool down in the fall and it will start spreading much faster.
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Randy, I think Richard was saying just for the lawn spray service :) I used to pay $60 every other month but I gave that up the past couple of years and started doing it myself. I weed/feed once a year with a broadcast spreader, and spray during the summer months for fleas / etc every 6 weeks or so (maybe 3 times) - end of hose sprayer. Easy as can be :) I had a spot like that on my grass, I thought it might be grubs but decided to check my sprinkler heads for coverage first. Lo and behold...area was completely missed. Adjusted heads and now (doubly so with the rain) it's growing back nicely. The only other possibly I can offer would be...do you have a dog? My dogs favorite wee wee spot looks like that too :)
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Your environment seems fairly controlled, so soil born diseases/problems can be ruled out. Have you checked for aphids? They can cause the type of leaf damage you are seeing and can carry diseases to pass onto your plants. It could be shock and adjustment to the new system to include a possibility of reaction to the cleaning agent. Though it seems that three good flushes should be fine. How are the top brand new leaves doing?
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I'm with Sheila; using those two chemicals is overkill. The main thing newly planted roses need is regular watering and time to make root growth before any fertilizer is applied. KnockOuts are really tough so I suspect something more is going on here. There may be air pockets around the roots, which prevents the roses from taking up water. Check the ground around the base of the roses by pressing down with your feet to ensure the soil has been firmed around the roots. Then apply water and observe closely; if bubbles appear on the surface you have have air pockets. When planting, it's a good idea to fill the planting hole just halfway with soil, then water until bubbles no longer appear, then fill the hole up the rest of the way and water again.
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James Petty
Original Author
8 years ago
PK I haven't watered at all this season until recently and then it is 2x week at 12 min per zone.

bostedo thanks for the feedback, I've applied ironite or some such suppliment a few years back when it first started and I think it might have helped a bit but didn't seem to really fix it. Whats strange is the other side of my yard across the driveway is fine so I'm skeptical it is the soil. I did have a soil test a couple years back let me dig that up to take a look at the pH.

I went ahead and applied a copper/neem oil spray yesterday to see if that will help if it is a funguns. I'll look into your suggestion on iron plus.

I will try to post a better pic that shows the 'area' of the lawn that is affected. Further back towards the fence (this is in the front yard) it is green and fine.
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PKponder TX Z7B
8 years ago
I am a big fan of agricultural grade corn meal for fungus, you get a mild feed too.
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bjb817
8 years ago
I second greensand. I had that problem at my last house. Within a few weeks of the application, the lawn was green again. It can be tricky to find though. I think I ended up getting mine at Barton Springs Nursery.

I've never had much luck dealing with fungal diseases, so I can't help you there...
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James Petty
Original Author
8 years ago
Can someone link me to this Iron Plus you are talking about? I cannot seem to find it online
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bostedo: 8a tx-bp-dfw
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Hi Yield makes the iron plus Nitrogen stuff I was referring to and believe the linked article mentioned. Here's the Amazon listing.
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Need help diagnosing at Augustine disease

Comments (7)

PKponder TX Z7B

bostedo: 8a tx-bp-dfw

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PKponder TX Z7B

bjb817

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Need help diagnosing at Augustine disease

Comments (7)

PKponder TX Z7B

bostedo: 8a tx-bp-dfw

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James PettyOriginal Author

PKponder TX Z7B

bjb817

James PettyOriginal Author

bostedo: 8a tx-bp-dfw

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James Petty
Original Author

James Petty
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