How to have healthy soil & roses, organically?
Jasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years ago
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strawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Does anyone have sources on how Organics can become cheaper?
Comments (39)There are several reasons organic produce is more expensive and it is all due to the USDA Certification protocols - read here: http://www.usda.gov/wps/portal/!ut/p/_s.7_0_A/7_0_1OB?navid=ORGANIC_CERTIFICATIO&navtype=RT&parentnav=AGRICULTURE Any time the government is involved red tape headaches are created. Paperwork is the same reason it costs so much to visit your doctor and why your health insurance is so high...thank you HMOs (another posting). First there is a list of prohibited and allowed substances that the producer must be aware of. And guidelines to follow for both growing and harvesting. Inspections are mandated. Everything the organic farmer does on his farm, every pest, disease or additive he has to deal with MUST be documented as to what was used, when and how much. Then there is a whole host of handling processes from farmers through any middlemen on up to the grocer stocking that produce in your local grocery. Every additional step drives the retail price up. Back at the farm, the land must be uncontaminated by residual pesticides and non-organic fertilizers for at least two years before the first seed is even planted. The seeds themselves must be a product of certified organic production. Synthetic fertilizers aren't used and compost takes time to make - requiring both space and labor - not to mention prevention of run-off into streams and other watersheds. Of course it doesn't do any good until added to the soils. Some farms are using no-till methods which may or may not be a requirement for organic certification; all to protect the watersheds. If a non-organic farmer ends up with pests - he dumps pesticides to save the crop; the organic farmer does not and in fact, cannot. There are approved organic controls he can use, remember the list? But if they fail, he loses a good portion, if not all of his crop. Others in his area may be in the same boat or...worse, if neighboring farms are using pesticides, where do you think the pests will go? With reduced harvests, basic supply and demand principles come into play. Everyone has a choice. You can eat less expensive vegetables that have been produced for quantity instead of quality, which may or may not be a time-bomb (unknown long term effects...remember DDT; or contaminated...currently tomatos - but they're not really sure???) Or you can pay a little more for foods certified "safe" because someone thinks its important enough to go through all the hassles of growing it "organically." Or...trade $$$ for time and grow one's own food. What is your time worth? Off the soapbox now......See Morepoor drainage soil: how to improve it organically?
Comments (8)I completely agree that it is a lot easier to select plants that will tolerate the conditions than it is to change the conditions on the hillside. However, some cut banks have newly exposed clay that might not support much vegetation for a number of years while natural processes slowly change a clay subsoil into a clay soil that can support plants. If this is the case, then you might need to do something to the soil to make planting wildflowers - even wildflowers adapted to clay - feasible. I would consider planting a cover crop. This would be a fast growing ANNUAL crop that will create lots of organic matter, break up the soil with its roots, then die. Oats are popular for this. Annual rye grass is too, but make sure you plant only annual rye, not perennial rye. You might need to break up or at least scratch the surface of the soil before you sow the seeds. I would plant the oats really thickly. For color you could add a few sunflowers to the oats - just use sunflower seed sold for feeding wild birds. Don't plant any perennial plants. If you ask around, you'll get lots of recommendations for perennial plants to cover slopes, and some of these would probably grow, but they would keep growing ifor years and prevent you from eventually planting wildlfowers. If the oats grow well this summer, next spring you can plant wildflower seeds into the dead oats. I'd select species that are native, tolerate clay, and you like. I would not plant any "wildflower" seed mix. Most of the seeds in mixes are not native, and many won't be well adapted for your hill. I think picking out species is the best part of the process and will entertain you over the winter. There are lots of websites that describe wildflowers and how to grow them. I usually try to compare several websites or books decribing each plant to make sure I know a little about each plant before I try to grow it. You can expect despite careful planning that some of the plants you select will thrive, while others won't grow well, This can't be avoided. Eventually you'll know what grows well and looks good on your hillside, but it will take a few years. If there are similar slopes in the area, check out what grows on them this summer for ideas. Expect that most of the plants along a road or behind a building will be non-n ative weeds you wouldn't want to plant, but a few will be natives....See MoreBest way to organically prepare soil for tomatoes
Comments (6)Another vote here for a soil test. Be aware, however, there are several difference types of soil test and many ways of interpreting their results, depending on the lab, test solutions, etc. The main test types are base saturation, nutrient maintenance and sufficiency level. Base saturation is predicated on the assumption that their is an "ideal" nutrient balance to promote healthy soil biota and, hence, healthy plant growth. Nutrient maintenance is based on applying what is need to grow the "next crop" regardless of what's currently available in one's soil. Sufficiency level is based on anticipated yield levels. For example, based on what's currently available in the soil, what is the likelihood that additional potassium (or calcium, magnesium, etc.) will provide a yield response. As a sustainable gardener (I don't strive to be 100% government-approved organic), I like the base saturation test. In my mind, it's geared towards creating the ideal growing environment-rather than focusing simply on fertilizing the plant. You can think of this as "feed the soil" vs. "feed the plant." Regardless of your approach, be careful of "chasing pH." The relative alkalinity (or acidity) or your soil is influenced by several factors. For example, a high pH might be due to too much calcium, magnesium, potassium or sodium. Conversely, low pH might indicate insufficient levels of any of these. Without a soil test, it's hard to know....See More10/27/15: Tips & recipes & thoughts to healthy life and healthy roses
Comments (63)JESS: Thank you for the pics. & neat info. about Badger .. I really enjoy learning about the animals in South Africa. One cup of chicken manure per bush is TOO MUCH. In a British rose forum, a lady burnt her roses by using chicken manure once a month. In my cold zone, I use chicken manure VERY SMALL amount when the temp is cool & rainy. Folks use Rose-Tone (has chicken manure) once a month for roses in pots. But that has only 1/6 chicken manure. I would use only 1/2 cup, 1 cup would be too salty. I killed a rose by mixing 1/2 cup of chicken manure in the planting hole. When chicken manure touches the root, it kills the root, best to dilute ONLY 1/2 cup with soil before spreading around the bush. I started a new thread, "10/30/15: Bad habits, good habits, rose & health tips, recipes." http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3473294/m=3/10-30-15-bad-habits-good-habits-rose-and-health-tips-recipes...See Morejim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agojim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agojim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agostrawchicago z5
8 years agomsdorkgirl
8 years ago
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