I'm going to link a 'spring planting date' thread from last year instead of retyping it all.

A couple of notes:

LETTUCE: the words "heat tolerant" or "heat resistant" do not apply to Oklahoma heat. They might apply to places where 90 degrees is considered a really unbearably hot day. So, I'd plant lettuce early and often and be happy if I still was harvesting in early June because even so-called heat-resistant, heat-tolerant and slow-to-bolt types (including the one named Slobolt) can't tolerate much of our hot weather. Lettuce quality begins to decline once the daytime highs are regularly 80 degrees or higher. Most varieties will bolt and send up seed stalks once they are being exposed to temperatures above 78 degrees. (Growing in morning sun/afternoon shade can help keep your lettuce a bit cooler.)

CABBAGE: Cabbage tolerates cold fairly well so I put it out pretty early. Transplants that have been hardened off properly can tolerate temperatures in the 20s although I try to cover them with floating row cover if nighttime lows are dropping below 26 or 28...just to be safe. You will get the highest-quality heads and the best yields if your cabbage matures while daytime highs are in the 60s. Once daytime highs are regularly exceeding 75 degrees, the cabbage often fails to head up or gives you puffy heads instead of tight well-formed ones. Cabbage can be harvested anytime after heads are formed and feel the proper weight in relation to their size. It holds in a refrigerator for a long time, but not as long if stored in a root cellar in the hot months. (In a root cellar in the cooler winter months, a fall crop can hold its quality for a long time.) I harvest more by the way a head feels than by how it looks (assuming it looks normal) or how much it weighs. A mature head should feel firm and solid. If you wait until the heads are cracking, you've waited too long and will have heads with diminished quality.

If you have too much cabbage at once, you can make sauerkraut. It is an easy way to preserve it.

I usually plant mini-cabbages because we will only eat so much at any give time.

COOL-SEASON PEAS: I don't even bother with cool-season peas in southern OK because we have too many mid- or even early-spring days when the temps spike up into the 80s and 90s and burn up the peas before they produce much of a harvest. Ideally you want your peas to mature and be harvested before daytime highs begin regularly exceeding 75 degrees. Those of you in more northern area probably have more success with them than we have down here.

RADISHES: Radishes can be succession-sown but once the weather is hot, their flavor gets very hot or strong and their texture is pithy, so they do fine in spring and fall and not so much in summer. Radishes grow best when grown while temps are above 50 and below 80, except for winter radishes and they can tolerate down to 45. Radishes are ready when they reach the proper size. The most important thing when planting radishes is to thin them out promptly (within 2 to 3 days of their emergence from soil). If you fail to thin properly early on, your plants will grow leafy tops but they won't 'radish' up and all you'll have will be leafy foliage with small roots. Failure to thin early is the main reason radish plants don't form radishes.

I only store radishes in the fridge and they'll last a few weeks in it. Usually we eat them before they have been in there very long. They lose quality pretty fast if left on a counter at room temperature. Radishes are biennials which means that in ideal conditions they form their seed the second year. However, if you want to raise some for seed, you can trick them by planting the seed radishes early enough that they will be exposed to some temperatures below 45 degrees while they are still small. That will trick them into going dormant. Then when it warms up and they resume growth the radishes believe it is their second season and usually bolt and send up flower stalks. Hopefully those flower stalks will go to seed after the flowers are finished blooming.

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed starting dates for cool-season crops

I probably should have mentioned that I read that thread, but thank you for the additional notes. They really help a lot. I may be too scientifically minded for gardening! LOL! I want to know all the variables before I start and even I know that gardening isn't about that. Perhaps that is exactly what I need to learn this year.