see moved this pic to the other post ken

I found this on the web, hope it helps. http://houseplants.about.com/od/foliageplants/p/Ficus-Elastica-growing-Rubber-Plant-Ficus-Indoors.htm Ficus elastica—Growing Rubber Plant Ficus Indoors By Jon VanZile Houseplants Expert Growing Conditions: Light: F. elastica require bright, filtered light and can tolerate morning sun. Plants that are kept too dark will become leggy, lose their lower leaves, and the color will become dull instead of glossy and vibrant. Water: Keep steadily moist; they are vulnerable to excessive dryness. Soil: Any good, fast-draining potting soil will likely do. Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. They are relatively heavy feeders when healthy. Grower's Tips: As I mentioned, these are not particularly difficult plants. Successfully growing one generally means finding the right balance in your environment: light but not too light, moist but not wet, enough fertilizer to keep it healthy but not too much to encourage fast growth. Like other types of ficus, they are vulnerable to cool drafts. Plants that are suffering for whatever reason will become leggy, with stretching internodes, and the leaves might first turn yellow and then brown and then drop off entirely. F. elatica look their best when fully clothed with leaves, so take any leaf yellowing seriously (although once a leaf starts to yellow, it's most likely gone already). If the leaves look full and are drooping, your light levels are probably too high. Ficus elastica are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, mites, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.

WL, Carefully pluck off the bottom leaf and put the cutting into soil--a loose one is best. I use perlite, lava rocks, pebbles and a spoonful of peat. Water in lightly once and then just leave them in a bright room without direct sun. Within 3-4 weeks, if you very lightly try to tug them up, they should be rooted in and then you can start watering occasionally. (If it's colder where you are, it will take longer than in spring and summer.) Then you can slowly acclimate it into brighter light, if you'd like. Looks like a nice, healthy cutting!

It looks like residue from insecticide or fungicide applications; or, early on, the plant was in a situation where it was watered from overhead and the water was allowed to repeatedly dry on the foliage, leaving dissolved solids residue on the foliage. It's possible too, that the same chemicals mentioned above were injected into the water used for over-head watering and were left behind on foliage as the water dried. I don't think it's cause for concern. If it interferes with the plant's ability to carry on photo synthesis, chemical messengers will inform plant central the leaves aren't carrying their weight, and the plant will automatically shed them. Too, your plant looks healthy enough that removing the affected leaves shouldn't create a scenario where the plant is using more energy than it's creating by turning the sun's energy into food ..... so you can remove them w/o need to be concerned. Remove them by snipping through the petiole (leaf stem) about half-way between where it's attached to the stem and where it transitions to the leaf blade. The stub you leave will fall off on its own in a week or two. Pulling leaves off can easily damage latent buds resting in leaf axils (angle formed by a leaf and the branch it's attached to). Al