I'll bow to laceyvail's greater knowledge, but having spent 30 some years in Maryland where dogwood did (pre blight)/does abound, it does have the potential to reach some size. On our wooded lot, in the forest-like setting, the native dogwood tended to have tall slender trunks with a lacey canopy. However, a lovely one in the open on the front lawn was a sizeable tree, both height and width-wise. I'm just saying the potential for some growth is there and the OP's is planted close to the foundation. Daylilies (hemerocallis) are different from lilies (lilium) and without putting your nose right in the throat of a daylily - like Stella d'Oro which is yellow flowered - you'd get no hint of a scent. Some other groundcovers to consider: Phlox subulata (moss phlox) Moss pink, moss phlox or creeping phlox is a pretty common rock garden plant, but it also makes a good ground cover on poor, bare soils. It does do better when not competing with other things, though. It'll form a dense mat of foliage, which is covered in spring with masses of flowers in pink, purple, or white. Mine will often get a light reblooming throughout the summer and into the fall. Sedum (Stonecrop). Many different kinds ranging from tiny mats only a few inches high to plants 2 feet tall. They're used as ground covers, in rock gardens, on slopes, between stepping stones, etc. Most sedums are spreading or creeping plants that will root from broken branches or fallen leaves. Very easy, undemanding plants. From "How Stuff Works" - How to grow leadwort: Plant in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Leadwort likes full sun or part shade. It will rot if the soil stays too wet, especially in winter. In most of growing Zones 5 and 6 plants die to the ground in winter. Apply a light winter mulch, and wait until growth resumes in mid-spring to cut stems back to the ground. Plant only in the spring: Leadwort needs a full growing season to get roots established. Uses for leadwort: Plant as a ground cover under shrubs and small trees and interplant spring-blooming bulbs such as crocus and daffodils." Late to come up means literally that - other plants may be well up before a "late" breaks ground in the spring. I experience that with platycodon which is the last to break ground here. Having gardened a long time, I know where the patches of it are so I know not to dig or plant over them. It's always good to put a marker over late breakers to alert you. And most information on any kind of plants will show you pictures of them at their peak of magnificence -rarely their fall die-back or spring emergence looks. You're kind of left to figure that out on your own. It's all fun and it's all a learning process no matter how long you've been at it. Despite any degree of gardening expertise, no one's immune from unintended consequences - something that just doesn't look right, failure to thrive or survive a winter even though it's supposed to, doesn't make the neighbors stop dead in their tracks. A good local garden center can be a wealth of information.

I tested the soil with my PH tester and it showed 4.5. I am not sure if it works right though, my soil tested pretty much the same all over the gardening portions of our property (couple of acres). Our soil is basically very dark brown all over the property, no soil stripping was done or maybe some, but that was about 45 years ago. The soil in the affected area looks very good, drains well. I just realized, this year with so much rain, the soil was wet basically all spring and summer long. It was dry some times though. I also added coffee grounds in there this spring. Maybe I put too many coffee grounds there? I did add miracle gro to azaleas and rhododendrons once a week in spring and summer this year. It made my other azalea (left of rhododendron & not on picture) and rhododendron really healthy comparing to last year as I didn't use anything. I was told I shouldn't plant an azalea in the affected area because it doesn't get any sun. The rhododendron to the left seems to be very well though. I have a bad feeling I created the problem. Do you think I have a plant disease in there now? thank you in advance

Pretty small image to see much detail. Perhaps a wet spot, with resultant root rot?

I have many of the same plants and I do not think the issue is water, unless it is overwatering. I have not watered my plants (other than recent transplants) since early September 2011 and they are thriving. I did have an issue on a few plants with a red bellied beetle that I did not take the time to identify. They turned my plains coreopsis into crispy critters. Get down on your hands and knees. See and feel what is going on. Look for bugs, dig into the soil to make sure it is not too dry or wet, look for curled or deformed leaves (sign of contact with herbicides) and know your plants and their requirements. Did you happen to apply any kind of weed and feed fertilizer? It's bad stuff. Check the link for pictures of my garden. Here is a link that might be useful: Plano Prairie Garden