Try and distinguish between the new growth and the oldest leaves, especially on artichokes. As long as the rhizomes stay healthy, the leaves & fruit will eventually come, no matter how ratty any one leaf looks. Transplant shock can be rough and produce stress signs in all plants, but it's best to wait it out a bit and see if the new growth recovers. Splashing soil up on the leaves while watering can produce yellow & black spotting too, it's one of my biggest challenges, as a moment of garden ADHD while watering means I've just splattered an entire row of seedlings with soilborne fungi and bacteria. It's often localized and never spreads beyond the affected leaf, except on my solanums (tomato, eggplant, potatoes, ...) it can mean I've just sent early blight everywhere, as I can't seem to get that disease out of my garden ever since my Home Depot tomatoes were infested. Whiteflies leaving your nursery-bought plants is a huge problem, it's illegal for the nursery to sell you infested plants. Get a refund and/or find another nursery. I rarely use box stores anymore, their pest prevention is weak (at best).

Since you've only had it a week, I don't believe you're responsible for any issues. It is still suffering from its poor treatment in the shop. I have lived a number of places where the municipal water source has neither fluoride or chlorine. Deep ground water needn't be chlorinated. In any case, I've also had the exact same plant where the water was floridated and chlorinated, and apart from being infuriatingly slow-growing, it never developed any problems. Slow-growing plants are often also slow-reacting plants because all the biological processes are slowed down. If it were my plant, I'd gently wash away all the soil and nasties left on the roots from the store. I'd check the bare roots for health, and I'd remove the ones that weren't white, and I would spread out the remaining roots in a nice pot of brand new, healthy soil, amended with at least 50% perlite, pumice, or something to reduce water storage, or I'd plant it in gritty mix. Water sparingly, place in bright light, and keep out of any direct sun for a couple of months to allow it to recover from its previous abuse. This particular Draceana, in my experience, is very slow, so it might take a while to come around, but I don't think my treatment would make it worse. It think it would only get worse if you find there aren't enough healthy roots to feed the existing foliage. Just my opinion.

Leaf curling alone is a physiological condition caused by stress; it's common in stressed plants, including young plants which don't have the root system to support all their foliage yet, or in times of unusually bright sunlight. If you get it by itself, look to see what may have stressed the plant recently; often it's nothing to worry about. The wilting, dead green leaves symptom resembles bacterial wilt, but that's pretty rare in your neck of the woods, and tends to take the whole plant down very rapidly. Stem borers can sometimes do it; look for little holes in the affected stems. Look for any damage to the stem, in fact. With the yellowing and necrosis -- it's hard to see in that small a photo, but it looks like the dark lesions are following the veins. That's diagnostic of a toxin of some kind -- no virus I know of does that in tomato, no bacterium or fungus is that specific, and no deficiency kills the veins before the interveinal spaces. I've seen a symptom almost identical to that in a case of alcohol poisoning (someone had a cocktail party in a library foyer and apparently the drinks weren't very good, as the potted plants looked pretty rough afterward). It was an unusual enough symptom that it became a teaching example. Toxins can come from outside or from the soil. Pyola is perfectly safe for tomatoes, and the heat wasn't excessive, but make sure the dilution was correct, as too high a concentration can burn leaves much like that. Spray damage can also cause wilted and dead green leaves. If you can sacrifice a plant that's badly affected, dig it up to look at the roots, see whether it has lots of crisp, white, fine roots, not dark or knobby ones. Shave away the skin at the soil line to look for discolorations in the woody stem underneath; cut open wilted green shoots to check for hollow centers from stem borers; and finally split open the main stem to see whether it's hollow or discolored inside. I don't expect much except maybe root symptoms, but you really never know. My personal guess is soil toxicity, especially given that the lower and terminal leaves are the worst affected by the yellowing and dying, and some things take a while to build up in the leaves enough to kill them. One important thing to note is that not all toxins are synthetic chemicals -- an excess of certain minerals or nutrients can poison a plant. pH affects root uptake of anything enormously, especially minerals, but it can have its own effect as well. You may need a soil test -- call your Agriculture Department, Cooperative Extension, or U of O to find an affordable lab. I don't see your symptoms in any of the common nutrient toxicity listings, though, which means it could be something chemical, and there is no general panel for that. Down here in California I'd send it to Sacramento's Plant Diagnostics lab or the extension pathologist at U. C. Davis, but I don't know what pathologists you have at your disposal. This is certainly not a cut-and-dried common disease problem, and even a specialist is going to need some lab work to figure it out, I suspect. I wish I had more answers for you, sorry. --Alison

Hi Mr caledon Looks like a generally healthy plant that is starting its fruiting phase and coping with a combination of issues: Dry/soaked uneven watering, nutrient transport to developing tomatoes and perhaps not hardened as well as you could have. But nothing we haven't all seen and in my case quite often. If you have iron and epsom salt hit it lightly with them, if not, increase the fertilization around 20% if you are controlling that and be sure to water more evenly from now on ... and as usual, not to over-water. my 2c PC