Sadie, I looked at the photos, read the comments, then went back to the photos to see what everyone had seen. I would echo many of the comments. First, lets remember that 'instant' does not happen in gardens such as ours. Even though we know that, I still repeat that thought to myself even after many years of gardening. It's a work of art which we are creating in partnership with unknowns such as the weather, conditions of the soil, and other living things such as your groundhog. (Unfortunately the groundhog does not see it as a partnership.) I must say that I do like the look of your garden. You comment that the Mullein must go, but I have to agree with Stage Rat - it provides a place for the eye to go, height, and is a statement in itself. At this point I'll also mention that it appears the groundhog does not eat it?? A plant I would definitely keep growing since this appears to be the case so hopefully you have seedlings to keep it going since it is a biennial. Don't be scared to move the Peonies. Consider that they are something you want to see when they bloom and their foliage lasts all season so they could be used as foliage fillers for the rest of the year. Again, Stage Rat's recommendation that the crowns appear on top of the soil is crucial for bloom. The Asclepias is nice! Again, another plant the groundhog won't eat since it's poisonous/toxic to them, so you might like to try some Incarnatas or other varieties. There are other plants which they won't eat for the same reason so do a bit of research and see if you would like them in your gardens. I have a deer issue and Monkshood are great plants, Poppies, Foxgloves and others. I've stopped fighting the battle somewhat and now plant things they don't like. Your Yarrow also appears undisturbed and there are many varieties with stunning colors out there. So take a chair and go sit a few feet from your garden. It's actually quite beautiful. :O) That's not to say that everything is where you want it, but consider the plant and what it is doing for your garden then make a decision as per moving/culling based on the adversities you face, bloom time, whether you like it or not, foliage staying power, purpose, etc. Oh, and consider that next year it will all be different whether you change anything or not this year!

If there is an outbreak of insect damages that require using a product that can control them, then its OK to use. I try to avoid any 'do it all' broad spectrum products as they have many more issues with side effects and can cause build up resistance. I am not trying to condone the use as a continual spray used every week. Usually two sprays of any thing are necessary to break large cycles of insect damage. My fruit tees are never sprayed, and I have no worms in my apples. There, I use sticky traps and scent lures. If no improvemnt is seen, after two spray treatments, then other means must be studied. I am quite sure that people don't go out at night and use a microscope in their garden to see what is causing the damages mentioned. Typically leaf eating insects respond well to th Bt product, no matter what kind they are are. Its safe to use, only because it can be applied to edibles, without issues of any side effects to humans. If we were to consider using it on a steady basis, it would soon become as resistant as many harsh pesticides. My info here is to guide someone ito a safe area where they can try this product and see if it reduces insect damages. I would hardly think anyone would pour it on a plant straight out of a bottle on a daily or weekly basis, as we are not really idiots here. I have used it in the past with great success and will continue to us it, as opposed to petrolium based sprays, systemic pesticides, or any other questionable bio hazard products. Everything in nature has a negative effect somewhere, and if we continue to use strong means to cure minor issues we can quickly run out of viable options. Last year, 99% of all my 10+ varieties of leaf lettuce were perfect with maybe a single small hole in a leaf in a single plant. I use things like beneficial nematodes and water these in before any plantings. With all the leaf lettuce I grew and no indications of any serious damages, I was quite happy and never used any product of any kind to protect the minor damages I saw. On the other hand, broccoli had small green caterpillers and these only showed up when I blanched the crowns, and saw them floatng in the boiling water. I didn't spray there either, as it wasn't like I was seeing totally lost broccoli crowns to insects. Just dont try to scare people into some diection where they may decide to use a more powerful product without regard to first trying something that has less of an impact on nature. I bet you also dislike using milky spore for Japanese beetle grubs.. Around here, gypsy moth caterpillers still kill many huge oak trees, and the green ones do serious damage to my fruit trees leaves. I don't have oaks on my property and must deal with overhangs from neighbors. I can't build a wall high enough to block the bugs coming from the trees. Corn earwroms are another issue too, as they can damage a whole crop. I let birds forage in my garden as I feed them in winter. I allow toads and snakes to reside here too. I have a bug spray that my dad boughr years ago, that can also kill earthworms. I do not use such a thing here. In fact, I must have about 15 bottles of nasty stuff left over after the ban on DDT. Needlss to say they never get used and will have to be displosed on an earth friendly manner. So you are the 'expert' here, what do you insist on using on controlling leaf damages instead?

I have never found earwigs doing lots of damage in the garden other than occasionally inhabiting mature lettuce of cabbage plants which is really gross. Looks like some slug damage to me. Maybe something else as well with the small holes.

DIpps, you cannot start a new basil plant from a dry leaf. One normally may grow a new plant from a stem cutting, BUT I would NOT try to propagate a new plant from this scale-infested one you have as it is a near 100% probability that the scale insects will come with it. Must strongly disagree with floral_uk about the adventitious root theory! But yes - daily watering is too much. I was interested to see that two people have posted photos of basil showing scale infestation. In all my decades of gardening I never have seen scale attack basil. I only have scale problems on my 3-year-old potted bay tree, and then only starting indoors in January. Outdoors during the summer it is fine. I am assuming there must be enough predators controlling the pests then. Indoors, I must resort to the alcohol swab cleaning technique.