A google search was helpful. The organic methods I will try are sage/citrus oils and pyola (pyrethrins+canola.) I picked up a bag of orange peels from Jamba Juice. I am going to try some clever method to get the oils out. Not sure how exactly. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Chemical treatments A few commercial botanical preparations are available for use on CPB. Rotenone is derived from the roots of a South American plant. Since it is somewhat slow at killing pests, it is often combined with pyrethrum for a faster "knockdown." Plant protection is relatively brief, usually lasting two days or less. Rotenone must be used with caution as it is quite toxic to fish and swine. Rotenone is a restricted material, one that should be used only when other, less severe options fail to exert adequate control. Be certain to read the label directions for specific instructions and cautions. Various products with the active ingredient azadirachtin (from neem tree seeds) have some efficacy against CPB in the early crop stages. These include Neemix, BioNeemÂ, and Margosan-OÂ. However, spray concentrations of 1% and greater may cause phytotoxicity on potato plants. (11) Furthermore, though they were once considered benign to beneficial insects, neem products have demonstrated some negative impacts. Washington State research has found neem to be toxic to ladybeetles, especially in their early larval stages. (12) Meanwhile, research in Maine found neem less effective than Bacillus thuringiensis (see Biopesticides below). (13) Pyola is a natural insecticide product that combines canola oil with pyrethrins. It is recommended for use on cucumber beetles, flea beetles, Mexican bean beetles, squash bugs, aphids, mites, and CPB. (14) However, since much of the canola oil on the market is derived from genetically engineered plants, this product may or may not be acceptable for organic production. Growers should contact their certifying agent before purchase and use. A number of herbs and herbal extracts are also reputed to repel or inhibit CPB, though research has been far from thorough. Among the plants believed to have some effect are: catnip, tansy, sage (15), hemp (16), oak extract (17), wild potato (Solanum chacoense) (18), and citrus oils. (19) Biopesticides Several biopesticide products based on the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) have become available in recent years. M-OneÂ, made from B. thuringiensis ssp. san diego, is genetically engineered and therefore is not allowed in certified organic production. NovodorÂ, produced by Valent USA Corp. (20), contains B. thuringiensis ssp. tenebrionis, a form of Bt that is not genetically engineered and can be used by organic producers in most states. One source of Novodor is Peaceful Valley Farm Supply. (21) Bt is effective only if ingested by the pest, and then only in the larval stage. Furthermore, Bt sprays are generally effective only against newly hatched CPB larvae. Applications should be made within one to two days whenever one or both of two criteria are met:  densities of egg masses reach or exceed 4 per 50 vines and at least 25% of the oldest masses have hatched or are hatching;  densities of small larvae reach the treatment threshold of 76 per 50 plants or stems. (22) Bt is most effective if applied when daytime temperatures reach or exceed 75°F, because larval feeding is then increased. (22) Another biopesticide, MycotrolÂ, is based on the fungal agent Beauveria bassiana. Like Bt, B. bassiana is a naturally occurring organism. Unlike Bt, B. bassiana is effective against all larval and adult stages of CPB. Furthermore, once B. bassiana is applied, it can continue to propagate and provide a significant level of CPB control throughout the remainder of the season. The most significant limitation of B. bassiana appears to be its sensitivity to high temperatures. Mycotrol works best between 70 and 80°F. Growth of the organism is much slower at warmer temperatures. (23) As a result, this may be a poor option for growers in southern states during much of the growing season. Emerald BioAgriculture Corp. (24), the manufacturer of MycotrolÂ, recommends spraying when hatching occurs in 20-25% of the egg massesÂtiming similar to that for Bt. A possible strategy involves combining Bt with B. bassiana for optimum efficacy. While Bt is effective at killing early-instar larvae, it will also slow the growth of larger larvae and make them more susceptible to the fungus. (23) Parasitic nematodes are another control option. Commercial formulations of Heterorhabditis species are available and have been shown to be more pathogenic (25), to the CPB than Steinernema species of nematodes, which are also commercially available.

I have a small, shallow wooden planter that might be slightly larger than 12" but not by much. I like to plan a prostrate rosemary, a thyme and sometimes a third plant depending on what I find at the nursery. Some of the thymes are very slow growing and the rosemary doesn't seem to mind being crowded. I have a lemon verbena in a pot that's about 12" across but deep. It turns into a small shrub during the summer. I like to plant lemon thyme at the base. I grow several basils but I agree they can get very large so I have a few plants in each pot and do not plant anything with them. Since I'm in NH with a shorter growing season, that might make a difference. A common garden sage grows fairly quickly and is happy becoming a small shrub in my garden. The variegated sages, however, grow very slowly and sometimes don't survive a New England winter. I would consider planting a variegated sage and a thyme in the same 12" pot but they would need re-potting in the fall.

My favorite mint, bought as "Vietnamese" from Richters seems to have overwintered, seed-grown beebalm looks to be doing very well where it was planted last Fall. Alpine strawberries are blooming away. Thyme doesn't count, I just planted it, along with some more sage. My lemon grass (what's left after being cat-attacked) will go out soon. Chives are popping up too. All the other herb-essentials have yet to be started from seed (or bought), I'm a little behind. Borage, though I'm waiting on because it got frost-bit last year. I think my lemon gem marigolds have reseeded themselves again this too! I'll probably be replacing my rosemary this year too, it made it through the winter but might not transplant well. I decided to move my pomegranate to the warm spot where the rosemary was.

For replies, see this thread re "rosemary 1 of 3 problems" http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pests/msg040250359653.html?11 Here is a link that might be useful: where the replies are