Yes, when i moved my 2 sagos one of them has already flushed, the one with the new flush is in a pot. The other older sago was put in the ground, it has taken much longer to establish but is now getting ready to flush within the next few months. I cut all the fronds off and cleaned them up, removing old dead stuff on the trunk.

We're starting to get into our raining season up here (yes, Michigan does have one of those - it's between construction and winter) and moving them indoors is not an option on a day to day basis. I've just installed a roll tarp over the bench I have them on that can be easily let down to cover them up on a hard rain day, or to help trap some humidity on really hot, dry days. Also built a spacer under each container so that they can fully drain verses sitting on the container bottom and not allowing the water to go anywhere. I can add more perlite and some sand to the soil by repotting them in a homemade soil mixture and not replant them any deeper than where they are now, but will it hurt them any more to transplant them a second time in 3 weeks? Remember, I got them bare root shipped with just some wet moss wrapped around the roots. Although I've seen more brown and "dying" leaves than new growth (havent seen any of that in the 2.5 weeks I've had them, it looks like I may not be at a total lose here. Thanks for all the help. IF anyone is in the s/e michigan area, zone 6b, I sure would like to meet you. Forums are great, but there is nothing better than meeting someone with a like interest and MORE KNOWLEDGE and EXPERIENCE to help guide you along in the beginning.

Dave I am not sure if keeping the root ball under grow light is a good idea - I would think it will dry out the roots too much? I could be wrong, but I would just let it sit on something absorbent (newspaper, kitchen towels) and let it air dry. Josh, Jeff - you guys know more so please correct me if wrong. From the photo, the 'washing' was good enough and roots look good. Ends of trunk don't show any rotting (dark&mushy/soft). Part of trunk that was under the soil is dark and I would think that's the reason (normal) for discoloration, not to be concerned about. If you touch/gently squeeze it and it is firm, it should be just fine. If soft, that is likely sign of rotting. I believe it is healthy. Rina

Good job! It looks better already and the roots do look healthy, healthier than I had anticipated. It even has a new little offset! If you're worried about the roots, or if it will take you a while to collect new soil, you can shelter them. Wrap a moist paper towel (wet and squeezed out) loosely around the roots, just the roots, 1/4" from the root/ stem juncture. The plant and points of leaf breakage have to be allowed to dry out a bit, to callous over, but roots that are allowed to dry too much may die off. We want the roots to remain healthy and alive. Mist or sprinkle the paper towel with water (lightly- not to saturate to dripping) once a day or two to protect the roots. Change out the paper towel if you see signs of mold or discoloration. I do this, but only with rarer plants that I'm very worried about damaging/losing. Keep the plant indoors in bright light for a couple days and then repot in a well draining mix. You can rinse off the cinnamon beforehand. Water thoroughly one week after repotting. Avoid pots that are much bigger than its original pot, should you choose a different one. I see that the wilting leaves are not completely dessicated. I would leave them since they will still photosynthesize and provide energy for the plant to grow. The tips will probably not recover aesthetically, but they are at least doing some work to help the plant as it recovers. The reason the leaves began wilting and failing is that the plant was planted too low in the soil, allowing moisture to collect and sit in the leaf joints. I think suppliers do this to provide physical support for the plant to stay upright when not well rooted. When you repot, make sure the leaf joints are all above soil level. Use toothpicks or chopsticks as needed to support the upper weight as the roots take hold over the next couple weeks. The lower surfaces of bottom-most leaves can sit on top of the soil surface to provide stability, but no lower. These darker and more leathery varieties of Haworthia do best in morning sun and/or very late afternoon sun. The harsher midday sun tends to burn and bleach the leaves, which doesn't make for a very good looking plant. But I don't think harsh sun is a problem in the UK ;) The most important thing to remember is to provide lots of bright light (not hot midday direct sunlight) and to not overwater. There are no steadfast rules because cultural factors are too varied- temperatures, humidity, wind, light availibity, soil structure, rain exposed or under cover, container material (terra cotta, plastic, glazed clay), root mass to soil mass, whether or not it's a growing period, etc. Change one factor and you create a domino effect. It's important to know your plant as an individual within its particular circumstance, all factors considered, and supplement its individual needs/ protect it from damaging situations. Luckily, the H. attenuata are probably one of the easiest haworthias, and succulents in general, to cultivate and a great start to appreciating succulents. I keep mine in a greenhouse beneath a 50% shade cloth (very bright light all day- about 12 hours) and water once a week spring-fall and maybe once during winter months (which is only late December- mid February here). The most important thing to understand about succulents vs. foliar plants in respect to water: --foliar plants will 'drink' water -- succulents 'absorb' moisture suspended in air gases. They cannot 'drink' water. This is why coarse and well drained soil mixtures are important. It allows for pockets of air that provide moisture rather than sitting water. Succulents sitting in straight liquid, or dense soil that does not provide for air exchange, will set rot very quickly. There are a lot of suggestions for soil mixes on this subforum. Push come to shove, you CAN use a premixed cactus and succulent mix (miracle grow makes one, usually available in small bags at Home Depot or Lowes, I'm not aware of what availability is like is the UK). This is not 'ideal' but it will be a vast improvement on your current soil conditions and will eliminate many 'danger factors' with the lowest cost/ time input. Additionally, collecting all the raw materials for making your mix can be cost prohibitive and time consuming (hard to locate local sources, which cause high shipping costs for online acquisition) for people who keep a couple house plants vs. hobbyist growers with 100s of plants and professional growers with 1000s of plants. The longest possible extra mile for you may be amending what mix you can get your hands on with perlite. Don't be afraid to be generous with it, 50% perlite may be called for in cooler moist areas. This will help ameliorate the hydrophobic tendencies of just C&S mix (mostly peat, which tends to be very hydrophobic once dry, is a measurable constituent of the mix) and afford more air pockets for available moisture/ air exchange. With lots of perlite, you may want to consider a gravel top dressing since perlite floats and every watering will result in some washing away and separating. Aquarium gravel works fine, and a white/ light colored gravel will provide some albedo for additional light availability from below. Of course, if you're interested in acquiring materials to form your own soil, there may be some members here that know of sources in the UK. A bonsai society in your area may be a good resource as well.