Thanks Dave for your response! I have adjusted to the earlier planting times here in the South, vs the North. Seems like the time I gained on the front end, I lose at the back end! I don't think the earlier start is the problem. Up North I planted Indeterminates because I wanted tomatoes that last until frost. The Determinates all come at once, and that is not what I am looking for. I'm not into the canning thing! We like fresh tomatoes for our sandwiches and meals. What is happening here is that I get plenty of blossoms, then the green fruit, they are almost ripe, and then become like water balloon sacks hanging there. Don't know what causes that, other than the heat. What I am afraid of is that if I start growing determinates, they will all ripen in June, then be finished. I was considering starting plants a few weeks apart for several periods, but that seems like a lot of effort. So I guess I will just have to try some Indeterminates and some Determinate, and see what happens this year. I just hate to have to buy seeds for varieties that people have tried, and they weren't any good. I'm happy to know you recommend some that I have on my list. Did you not try the others, or were they NG? Paul

One of the problems of the area that jumps out at me is all the blank wall space on your neighbor's house. It's a primary view that a tree would take care of. On your own house facing the street is some of the same, so another tree is in order. Insofar as giving a sense of privacy while not enclosing, I would suggest a spaced series of small, multi-trunk trees -- like crape myrtle -- that insulate from view anyone who is a distance away on the street while it allows you to see what's close. If you spend some time developing a good trunk arrangement, you'll get more screening (like a visual filter) out of the trees as the trunks develop. To develop the privacy even more and get a sense of protection, place a bed of groundcover below the multi-trunk trees. It should a height that allow your view to easily continue above them. You'll be viewing below the tree canopy and in order to do that, it should start at about 9' or 10' off of the ground. (I pollard crapes to 10' every year.)

We can't tell you which plants not to bring without knowing what you have. :-) Maybe you can make a list of your favorites for us. If you haven't already, become familiar with the Clemson Extension website. Myrtle Beach is in Horry County, pronounced OR REE, or oh ree..... never with the H sound, and not rhyming with sorry. You will be corrected every time you mispronounce it, lol. Myrtle is in zone 8, I believe.

I am just south of Mrytle Beach, in Charleston. I am growing in ground still, root knot nematodes not a problem yet. Still get lots of tomatoes. Key is to get an early start. Be prepared to set some out a little earlier than you should and then protect them on cold nights. You may only get two cold nights in all of April. If you can protect them just those two nights, you will get a 30 day growing advantage. This makes a huge difference in plant growth, number of buds, and number of pollinated blooms before the humidity makes the pollen too tacky to work. This will happen some time in June. I leave my cages off so I can cover easily if necessary. I put the cages on after threats are past. I stagger plant out in case my gamble fails. At least some will survive. Try Big Beefs. They are tough, productive, resistant, red, and taste good. They are a good bench mark for other varieties. You can pick them up at the big box stores, but cannot not always count on real early in this region. As the humidity increases, your plant will cease pollinating(buds will be plentiful though) and the heat will normally cause a shut down in August. It will look alive, but the heat here impairs the function for normal processes. If it lives through summer, it may produce new buds in the fall. But the heat damage from the summer is pretty severe. Sometimes, it is best to start fall with new plants. Or just skip it if you have a good season. I used my fall gardening time to establish a winter garden. Since the ground never freezes, and there are many cold hardy plants that can easily handle 22 or down to 18, a winter garden makes a lot of sense. It is almost impossible to grow normal spring varieties like Lettuce (bolts in March) or carrots (gets woody) outside of winter, and easier than falling down to grow in the winter. To see the possibilties check the vegetable growing section New Year's Eve harvest post.