I have recently moved to Southeast , NC about 60 miles north of MB, SC. I have been investigating the varieties that will do better in this area.

So far here are the ones that are recommended :

Pruden's Purple

Creole

Sioux, Super Sioux

Arkansas Traveler

Bradley

Indian Stripe PL

Big Beef F1

Brandywine Cowlicks or Sudduth

There are other varieties that should do well, when/if planted out real early so that they will have enough fruits set before the July heat and humidity move in. .I am gearing up to try and start an early plant out, possibly some time in March, weather permitting. In MB probably you can even do earlier.

Then you can grow 9maybe !) a second crop starting sometime in July. Those should continue into November.

Sey

Thanks guys for your comments & suggestions! Last year, I started my seeds, under lights on a rack I built, in my wife's warm laundry room, on March 2nd. We had frost on April 5, 6, 9, & 10, hardened them off (in & out of the house when necessary, for two weeks), then planted them in the garden on April 15th. This past year I even tried 3 large pots on the side of the house that gets some shade, and also 3 more large pots up against the back of the house (full sun there until late afternoon). The real garden is full sun all day until sunset! The locations didn't matter, and I had very few tomatoes! I had the soil tested & the results were very good, 6.8 ph! I guess I was spoiled living up north! They recommended that I lay down plastic & use all containers, with potting mix, as the nutrients in the ground soil and added fertilizers just wash thru the sandy type soil. Will give it another go this season. After so many tries, I believe it is the direct, intense sun, heat, and humidity causing me not to succeed here in the south! I also tried the second planting last season, and do agree that the shorter days affect the plants production.

Speaking from experience a bit south of MB. Grow tomatoes in pots elevated on bricks. When beginning the potting process make a 'wick' in the pot bottom using a strip of cotton cloth or cotton clothesline. Encircle the inside outer bottom of pot with the cloth strip and pull a short length through the bottom drainage hole. Finish potting. Stand potted tomatoes where they will receive a good wind and air flow. Very important.

After years of trial and error I now mulch potted tomatoes with the type of coir that can be purchased by the yard at nurseries, breaking it into sections and fitting around the tomato stem. Be generous.

Much to my surprise a heavy northern producer, Moreton Hybrid F1 tomato, sold only by Harris Seed thrives in South Carolina's adverse situation.

The problem here in Georgia consists primarily of root knot nematodes and Tomato Spotted wilt virus (TSWV). I have consistent success only with resistant varieties, These will usually make it through the season with a major lull in August , small crops in October November. Best results from Mountain Merit, Amelia, and Bella Rosa. Gave up on Op's years back. I grow in ground in Sandy soil, I am in the sandhills.

I am just south of Mrytle Beach, in Charleston. I am growing in ground still, root knot nematodes not a problem yet. Still get lots of tomatoes.

Key is to get an early start. Be prepared to set some out a little earlier than you should and then protect them on cold nights. You may only get two cold nights in all of April. If you can protect them just those two nights, you will get a 30 day growing advantage. This makes a huge difference in plant growth, number of buds, and number of pollinated blooms before the humidity makes the pollen too tacky to work. This will happen some time in June.

I leave my cages off so I can cover easily if necessary. I put the cages on after threats are past. I stagger plant out in case my gamble fails. At least some will survive.

Try Big Beefs. They are tough, productive, resistant, red, and taste good. They are a good bench mark for other varieties. You can pick them up at the big box stores, but cannot not always count on real early in this region.

As the humidity increases, your plant will cease pollinating(buds will be plentiful though) and the heat will normally cause a shut down in August. It will look alive, but the heat here impairs the function for normal processes. If it lives through summer, it may produce new buds in the fall. But the heat damage from the summer is pretty severe. Sometimes, it is best to start fall with new plants. Or just skip it if you have a good season.

I used my fall gardening time to establish a winter garden. Since the ground never freezes, and there are many cold hardy plants that can easily handle 22 or down to 18, a winter garden makes a lot of sense. It is almost impossible to grow normal spring varieties like Lettuce (bolts in March) or carrots (gets woody) outside of winter, and easier than falling down to grow in the winter.

To see the possibilties check the vegetable growing section New Year's Eve harvest post.

I had a garden for over twenty years in the East Cooper area of Charleston County. Usually had tomato plants in the ground by April 1. As Janice mentioned earlier, by late June the humidity and heat along with the insects takes its toll. Never attempted a second Fall growing season. However, Boone Hall Plantation in Mount Pleasant always attempts to have a Fall tomato crop. Do not know if they were successful this year because of Hurricane Matthew. If some of their plants survived, because of the warmer late Fall weather, they most probably had tomatoes until Christmas.

I now have my garden in the mountains of North Carolina. Later start (mid May) but I get tomatoes usually into October/November.

Last year, I was able to get plants out by 15 March. The local wisdom is any time after St.Patricks day, which will be on the 17th. I hope to beat that by 10 days. I will not be setting out all of my plants ultra early , but I have in mind to set out 25%or so, consisting of hardy hybrids and some Russian heirloom earlies. I think earlies will be happier with the cooler weather.

My fall (second) 2016 tomato season was a bust. I lost about half to heat stress (set them out too early and not enough shade). The half that made it got hit by the hurricane. After that I set out a winter garden and have been loving the fresh veggies all winter. When the winter veggies are done, it will be time to set out tomatoes.

Janice, Have you been working on germinating your first plant out varieties yet ? I am working on my first group/batch of 15 varieties. In 4 days I've got them germinating little by little, 40% are popped. I just set up my light stand and put the tray under light.Of course my location is behind that of yours by about a month. But I am shooting for some March planting, if the weather is clement then. Otherwise got to move my seedlings into the garage, to prevent them from getting lanky.

Along with maters I have also equal number of pepper. No signs of action there yet. But we know that peppers take longer to germinate. No problem ! I've got time.

Back to the topic : Thechnically you can grow just about any tomato down here. I think the timing is important. Have to take advantage of cooler early season weather so that your plants set some fruits before the high heat and humidity arrive.

Sey

Sey:

I started seeds for Big Beef, Brandy Boy, Sungold, Prudens Purple, Kosovo and Azoychka. I started them on Monday, the 16th of Jan. I also started peppers and eggplants. I will start the rest of the tomatoes in about 10 days. I should have some tomatoes ready to set out by the 7th if the weather window appears. The rest will follow by the 17th.

i have added to my grow list. I found an old package of Rutgers. If I can get them to germinate, I will try them. The local BBS had some Ferry Morse Black Krim, so I will try them. I also added a couple from the fall that failed due to heat/hurricane: Earl's Faux and Marianna's Peace.

I also have my eye on a 150 ft roll of CRW. I am working on the husband :) to bring it home. I only have 22 cages, and need about 32.

Costoluto genovese... park seed. Im in williston, had lots, needs calcium at transplanting to ground time. Dont get the plant wet, water only in the morning unless it was a scorcher and they really are needy. Direct water into bowl shaped, compost, manure and sand mix. Helps concentrate water to plants.

And Matts Wild grape tomatoes, southern exposure seed exchange, Did great in the ground as prepped above, and did great in pots. Best wishes.