If I am not mistaken, several people have complained bitterly about that potting product on this forum. I believe the problem is that it doesn't drain very well or simply remains soggy for too long. ( I hope that someone will verify or refute this for our poster.)

The other main issue is that this plant will never love being inside on a sunny window ledge. The typical winter indoor environment is waaaay too dry and warm for a tree that prefers the great outdoors.

I don't think you have anything to worry about regarding the critter in question. Spider mites are much smaller than that and not likely to take cover in the soil.

As new growth of all pine/spruce/fir trees grow and mature the older leaves are cast aside and they turn brown and eventually drop off the tree and make that pine mulch that is under these trees. What you have may be just this, or maybe possibly you do have a problem, but if new growth is vigorous and is not showing signs of being attacked by insect pests (if only the older growth is affected) you do not have a problem. All insects that attack pine/spruce/fir trees attacjh new growth, not old growth.

Ummmm, that would be 'all' insects that YOU are familiar with, kimmsr.

The browning is either transplant shock, over watering or just normal old growth shedding. Rhizo is right, this is not an indoor plant, although it's too late to put it outside now. The growth for '09 has started now and if you want growth in '10 it's going to need to be outside starting in spring and have a cold spell outside next winter. I can't attest to the planting medium, but conifers do need a light soil. Something with pine bark chips in it and basically soil like you see a conifer sold at nurseries. You may want to check the roots to make sure they are not soggy. Do not fertilize any more if that mixture of yours has ferts in it and let the soil dry before watering. Don't water on a schedule.

tj

Darkcyde, the light levels at this time are very poor where plants are concerned. In winter, they go into dormancy and do not need the water, nor the light so much.
As light levels begin now to increase, you can expect your sapling to put on new growth....as little as it is.
There's nothing wrong in starting an outside plant indoors as long as you give it some sort of natural habitat it would otherwise enjoy outside.

Don't let the plant dry out, but when you water, water to drainage and dump the excess after a reasonable period of time. Don't let the water be drawn back up.

Watering with distilled water. Was that info given you by someone who has views on regular community treated water.
The 'treated' I take is your town's water is fluoridated.
So what, most communities think its good for the kid's teeth.
As far as fluoride damaging a small tree, I doubt it has had the time to have an effect and besides, just leaving the water to sit overnight and gain room temperature, is sufficient.
Salts build-up in soil is a long-term thing, it doesn't happen overnight. Don't worry about it.

Brown tips on plants can be usually traced to one or two possible causes: light...and or overwatering.
You would know whether you are giving the plant too much water. Remember, it can only use so much water through winter...it should be actively growing to use such water.
Light. Light at this time is very low....not until well into February is the intensity of light sufficient to push growth. I suspect what growth you have now is being pushed by your feeding it. Plants don't need feeding in winter, albeit very minimally, because they are not growing.
Sunlight influences growth. Since light levels are so low, growth is not wished.
So, no more feeding the plant until spring and new growth is in evidence.

Water only when the plant needs it...don't put it on any schedule. Let the plant dry down between waterings and when you water, water always to drainage and dump the excess.

The new growth in spring will change those brown tips to green ones.

Whether you continue to buy distilled water is up to you. I don't believe its needed. When plants have a definite problem due to the water issue, then you can consider buying the more expensive stuff. Until the problem is one of water type, I would use the straight stuff and let it get to room temperature overnight.

darqcyde, I'm afraid that you've been given some erroneous information that might put your plant at risk. Let's try to sort through the comments and find some real facts. ;-)

First of all, not all plants will thrive inside the typical home. One such example is your Colorado Blue Spruce. Yes, you may be able to keep it alive until Spring, but don't be surprised if you get a lot more tip burn and needle fall.

Conifers can be sensitive to fluoride in the water, but you cannot get rid of that chemical by leaving it out. It simply does not evaporate into the atmosphere. CHLORINE does, however. It might be well worth it to use distilled water or collected rain water.

Burned foliage tips can be caused by many factors, individually or collectively. I'll use the term 'improper watering' because it could mean too much, too little at a time, too infrequently, etc. Yes, it could be fluoride damage or even fertilizer burn, if applied too frequently or at a too high rate.

Your brand of potting mix contains fertilizer, if I am not mistaken. I'd avoid supplementing that with anything else, until you repot into something that is free of fertilizers.

In the Spring, I'd suggest that you transplant to a different potting medium. You can make a great one with with bark fines, often sold as 'soil conditioner', perlite, and a dash of peat. Bark should be the predominant ingredient for your little conifer. You should be familiar with that type of medium, having been around the commercial aspect of nurseries so much. Tsugajunkie is on the right track with that.

Are you going to keep it containerized for some months (or years) or is it going into the ground some time in the near future?

I found a lot of whitish looking bugs in the soil and around the roots of a small bush along a wooden walkway.
The plant was dying and I wonder if the bugs were killing it. I found the following picture on a web site that has similar looking bugs, but mine looked a little whiter.
http://securitypest.com/termite-control-treatment-damage-picture.htm
If these are termites - will they kill my bushes?

Here is a link that might be useful: Security Pest Control

A picture would very helpful since most soil dwelling larva are "whitish."

One of the world's most common insect are springtails. Their white larva would look like termites to most people. And as petzold suggests, there are many others that would fit the description, as well.

Here is a link that might be useful:

Termites, as a rule, do not munch on living plant tissue, They are scavangers and most only eat dead, and dry, woody material.
Aplogies to darqcyde since this has nothing to do with the problem described.