Dig up your plant and cut through the root ball with a sharp knife,if large, cut into four.Pot up into 6 inch pots with a good potting soil,with the top of the crown an inch higher than the soil line, and put in a sunny location or under grow lights.I do this every year and mine bloom indoors until after Christmas.Make sure you water from below or your crown will rot.

HI Folks, Wow a lot of postings.. I am a all around gardener, but tend toward edibles, herbs and such. I do grow a ton of other things. I have a huge woodland garden, small forest garden, tiny water garden, several butterfly gardens, wildflower gardens, organic veggie gardens, herb gardens, heck I just plain like to garden and if it can grow here I have it or want it. LOL I have a good garden friend who is a lady and belongs to the wallingford garden club. She is not "old" but.. LOL I have been invited to take part in several garden club projects but.. I really an not a joiner. I am a do-er.. I hade several garden buddies when I lived on the otherside of town they like me have all moved away. I still live in Wally world . Thanks for all the posts and I hope one day someone from around here will host a garden get-together. Local is my focal (c: Smitty cityhomesteader@yahoo.com

I've got a number of passion flowers that I overwinter indoors. Among these is a Lavender Lady (which is confused for Amethyst, so I can't be sure it isn't). I bring all mine in and put them in my son's room. They sit in front of a south facing window and I water about once a week to every other week. I lose leaves on some, some do fine and even bloom well indoors. Lavender Lady is one of the better ones for me inside. It generally will bloom as spring arrives indoors and it generally loses less leaves than some of the others. ~Chills btw...also growing 'Incense', Vitifolia, Caraeula, incarnata, edulis and a couple of unknown ones indoors over the winter.

hi, Although I'm not a tomato expert ( more like a complete newbie) I think I can answer some of your questions. Do russet mites over-winter? I THINK they over-winter on left over tomato debris or any other member of the nightshade family including bindweed petunias peppers eggplant nightshade and more. Sulfur spray will treat your problem however you have to start early. According to the texas extension service you should apply the sulfur as soon as the plants are big early june for your zone? and then reapply if you see any bulging of the stem at the base. Once you start to see the leaf symptoms it's to late. Does my setup look OK? As long as you get 6-12 hours of direct sun light and the soil PH is between 6.5 & 7.1 your fine How much water for "Jiffy Greenhouses"? the trick is to never let the "soil" dry out but don't let it be water logged I know this sounds hard but i would just let the surface dry out in between waterings. WARNING Things can dry out very fast in those greenhouses if they are put outside even in the shade. Potting mix or soil? I just want to warn you of a big problem that you could be getting yourself in to. That is to much nitrogen, Tomato's will just grow a lot of leaves with to much nitrogen. Dry grass clippings aren't a problem but fresh clippings are very high in nitrogen if your grass clippings are dry I would till them in as soon asap. Coffee grounds have something like a 30-1 nitrogen to carbon ratio I added 1 tablespoon of grounds to each planting area in the fall, If i were you though I would leave them out. eggshells are wonderful because they contain calcium but they take a long time to break down. Crush some up asap and apply them to your soil to give them max decomposing time. composted Manure can be high in nitrogen and contain weed seeds you may want to use some other type of compost. Ok now to answer your question I wouldn't put anything in the planting hole just take the plant out of it's pot and plant it in to your prepared soil. Alternatively you could build a Square Foot Garden (SFG) which is a raised bed no bigger then 4'x4'x6" filled with 1/3 peat moss 1/3 blended compost (from many things) 1/3 perlite or vermiculite. for more info SFG check out the fourm on this website or send me a PM. (thats somthing i know a little about) Sorry if i rambaled a bit It's just very important to get your soil just right Everything else look OK?/advice Ok well first things first Don't worry to much! last year was my first year growing anything edible I think I read everything that had ever been written about vegetables (ok maybe not But I read ton of stuff) I looked at every imaginable pest and disease and came up with ways to treat them organically. I didn't get any ripe tomatoes last year and it wasn't because of some pest or disease it was for some very simple reasons that I didn't even dream of being a problem. 1) sunlight: I thought I had enough sunlight Cause I had on a sunny day first checked the time it first got sun (7:00) then at about 11:00 I looked a gain and it was sunny and I checked the time it last got sun which was 6:00 It turnedout that becuse of tall trees houses and other obstructions those were the only time it got sun giving the sight about three hours of sun. 2) start date: I started about 2 weeks late I recomend you count back 6 weeks from your last frost date for your seed starting date and then transplant them 2 weeks after your last frost date. (the last week you should put your tomatoes in a shaded area outside during the day) 3) spacing: I planted 5 plants inside one tomato cageabout 6" apart. this didn't turn out to be a problem because 2of the plants were killed by verticillium wilt and a cherry tomato plant was shaded out by my two beefmaster plants. The beef master plants got to about 6ft which was tall enough to get 5.5 hours of sun on the toppart of the plant and they burst in to bloom in september but frost took care of my baby tomatoes. The reason I just went in to such detail about why MY tomatoes failed last year is becuase it makes the point that although there are more tricks for gorwing tomatoes than I could count, sucsess comes down to these basic rules. Sun: 6-12 hours start date: 6 weeks before last frost transplant date 8 weeks after start date with one week of hardening off spacing: about a foot apart water: from seed to harvest keep evenly moist but not wet fertilizer: only a little 5-5-5 after planting (tomato fertilizer is fine) sea kelp after first burst of flowers and sea kelp at the end of summer ( fish emulsion and geen sand will work too) Soil: not to rich (in my oppinon SFG is the way to go) I really hope this helps!