"Tiny Towers" Italian Cypress are superb for tall and narrow. They don't get gigantic like the big ones do. Spearmint Juniper is also great. Beautiful green color and takes to shearing very easily. "Purple Pony" purple leaf plum is also excellent as a small tree. Only gets about 12' tall. Doesn't get huge like the big ones do... There are also some smaller Cassias that do well as small trees and have nice flowers as well and are only briefly deciduous.

my kids ran thru my rose bushes.. ONLY ONCE ... i would not opt out of something just cuz of the kids ... they learn real fast .... GG's are way to huge.. i would recommend Thuja occidentalis 'Degroot's Spire', for thinness.. though it is still an arb ... copy/paste this link: https://www.google.com/search?q=Thuja+occ+de+groots+spire&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=rcs&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=KSUuUqrLCYbuyAHxjYG4Bg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1274&bih=810 conifers are trees.. they never really stop growing.. ALL size estimates are at 10 years.. which is 10 years of its annual growth rate .... and one can presume.. they will be twice as big in 20 ... i premise any of my info with the caveat i know nothing about your zone ... you said: 4) Something that can deal with moisture thats cryptic ... with PROPER PLANTING... it is not an issue ... short of being a real bog .... the issue is PROPER drainage.. and secondarily.. perhaps.. non-draining soils like clay ... read up about such at the link ... dig a hole.. and give us some real facts about this ....... why is there water there???? i dont want you making bad decisions based on things that should not be a variable ... and finally: 5) Something that can deal with limited sun this weekend [or any sunny day if you are a stay at home] .. you and a timer.. and go out there every single hour.. and tell us EXACTLY HOW MANY HOURS of sun ..... no guessing... part shade.. means absolutely nothing... and also explain .... how deep the shade is .... very bright to cave like.... also list what is growing there now.. that is an indicator ... we need more facts ... to move on with the analysis .... welcome... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

I have a native cedar voulenteer that needs a new home..... Would you consider it as well? It is quite cute- and is about 3' tall now and grows in almost complete shade right now- it should continue to do well in shade for years to come! I think it's parents are growing under the boughs of a huge old oak and cottenwood tree in the back- they are quite tall and have a nice conical structure to them. The main trunk of these have a very nice texture to them- a very nice brown stringy papery look. It would only cost a little sweat to dig it up... Julie

kcblu, First let me disclaim that I have no formal education in architecture, or horticulture. I apologize for any typos, or mistakes on the botanical names. Some friendly tips that us help you to consider for the future. When describing the area be detailed and concise. The type of shade is very important to determining the right type of plant. A bed that is located under or near a large shade tree is very different from being shaded by a tall building. The direction, or side of the house is also very important. Your soil type is crucial (topsoil, clay, sandy etc). Most importantly, what are your goals/preferences/wants. For example "I don't like gold color, I want something narrow with a max height of 6-7', I want it to be evergreen. In my experience I usually try keep people that are not active gardeners away from what I consider sensitive plants like rhododendron, holly and hemlock. Depending on your environment, many of these acid loving plants are picky about their soil, and exposure, and you don't seem like the type of person that wants plants that need a lot of attention to establish, and survive. As the bed exists I think the picea pungens 'glauca pendula' was a great suggestion for its durability, and slow growth. See also a named variety called 'the blues.' 'Glauca pendula' can sometimes have a more contorted structure (which many like myself enjoy for character that is unique to each plant) where 'the blues' has a stronger weeping habit and will remain more slender. Picea abies 'pendula' (see also 'frohburg' 'formanek' etc). Very similar plant but dark green. Options are endless as mentioned above. Myself I would plant chamaecyparis 'green arrow', but you might not want that kind of height. Try not to be overwhelmed by the project. When designing, I often want the customer to let me start with a blank slate, but as a homeowner, I understand budgets. Focus on one small project at a time that you can afford, and can physically achieve. I have to agree that removing the deciduous foundation plants, and planting green velvet boxwood in an arch, or L shape 5-6 feet from the house with a deciduous tree in the remaining open area is a viable option as well. You could go low with something like acer dissectum 'tamukeyama' (the best red weeping / cascading japanese maple in my opinion). Or something that could be maintained with an open / airy structure like cornus kousa, acer japonicum acontifolium / vitifolium, for color acer palmatum bloodgood / emperor one. Fagus s. tricolor / roseo marginata could work short term, but despite their slow growth may be problematic post 10-15 years. See also acer palmatum ryusen (can be staked to any height), and acer palmatum 'green cascade'. I like the idea of liquidambar 'slender silhouette, but you may not like that much height, and you would need some size elsewhere to balance the look. Tall and linear can really help with an entrance like yours. Local garden centers may offer free or affordable design services that can help you get a plan together that you can pick away at as funds become available. Please be courteous though, and do not abuse their services by shopping their prices at competitors if you like their design ideas. Most of all remember that this should be about having fun, and being proud of the end result.