Mahonia nervosa: It is sometimes called Longleaf mahonia and is a good choice for shade, especially dry shade. Leaves turn a purplish color during colder winters. Sunset describes them as looking like stiff, leathery ferns. It also has blue berries that are edible, though sour. It can be used to make jelly. There are other Mahonias that tolerate shade, but I think Longleaf is the best choice for the North side of your house. This plant would go well with a more relaxed or natural landscaping situation. English yew is another possibility, though parts of plant are poisonous. It does have red berries that provide winter interest and the plant attracts pollinators. The biggest drawback is that they are slow growing, so you may have to pay more initially to get the height you want. This plant takes shearing and pruning well and looks good in a more formal or planned garden. Good luck!

It's actually not canyonlike at all - it is on the north side of my garage, but there is another 15 feet of yard to the north of that which is open. However, my house is East of all this, blocking any morning sunlight that might want to get to that area. The west is shaded by large trees in my neighbor's yard. Other stuff that is growing well there: daphne, a dogwood shrub, hellebores. The Yew I saw at my nursery had multiple trunks and therefore multiple tops, which is a look I wasn't fond of. But google images show many, highly prunable types. Maybe I'll keep looking. I appreciate all your thoughts!

kcblu, First let me disclaim that I have no formal education in architecture, or horticulture. I apologize for any typos, or mistakes on the botanical names. Some friendly tips that us help you to consider for the future. When describing the area be detailed and concise. The type of shade is very important to determining the right type of plant. A bed that is located under or near a large shade tree is very different from being shaded by a tall building. The direction, or side of the house is also very important. Your soil type is crucial (topsoil, clay, sandy etc). Most importantly, what are your goals/preferences/wants. For example "I don't like gold color, I want something narrow with a max height of 6-7', I want it to be evergreen. In my experience I usually try keep people that are not active gardeners away from what I consider sensitive plants like rhododendron, holly and hemlock. Depending on your environment, many of these acid loving plants are picky about their soil, and exposure, and you don't seem like the type of person that wants plants that need a lot of attention to establish, and survive. As the bed exists I think the picea pungens 'glauca pendula' was a great suggestion for its durability, and slow growth. See also a named variety called 'the blues.' 'Glauca pendula' can sometimes have a more contorted structure (which many like myself enjoy for character that is unique to each plant) where 'the blues' has a stronger weeping habit and will remain more slender. Picea abies 'pendula' (see also 'frohburg' 'formanek' etc). Very similar plant but dark green. Options are endless as mentioned above. Myself I would plant chamaecyparis 'green arrow', but you might not want that kind of height. Try not to be overwhelmed by the project. When designing, I often want the customer to let me start with a blank slate, but as a homeowner, I understand budgets. Focus on one small project at a time that you can afford, and can physically achieve. I have to agree that removing the deciduous foundation plants, and planting green velvet boxwood in an arch, or L shape 5-6 feet from the house with a deciduous tree in the remaining open area is a viable option as well. You could go low with something like acer dissectum 'tamukeyama' (the best red weeping / cascading japanese maple in my opinion). Or something that could be maintained with an open / airy structure like cornus kousa, acer japonicum acontifolium / vitifolium, for color acer palmatum bloodgood / emperor one. Fagus s. tricolor / roseo marginata could work short term, but despite their slow growth may be problematic post 10-15 years. See also acer palmatum ryusen (can be staked to any height), and acer palmatum 'green cascade'. I like the idea of liquidambar 'slender silhouette, but you may not like that much height, and you would need some size elsewhere to balance the look. Tall and linear can really help with an entrance like yours. Local garden centers may offer free or affordable design services that can help you get a plan together that you can pick away at as funds become available. Please be courteous though, and do not abuse their services by shopping their prices at competitors if you like their design ideas. Most of all remember that this should be about having fun, and being proud of the end result.

Would not recommend photinia for VA - very prone to a fungal leaf spot that causes severe defoliation and eventual death. Also does not thrive in much shade at all so not a great 'woodland' plant. Although not particularly fast growing, Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica) is a great evergreen shrub for a shady area and also very tolerant of the dryness that often accompanies a wooded location. Should be fully hardy down to zone 6.