question about cold frames - and a new gardening book

12 years ago

Recently I got "The Year-Round Vegetable Gardener" from my library and I am really enjoying it. It is written by a woman who lives in Nova Scotia, Canada in Zone 5b/6a. They grow greens and other hardy vegetables through the winter, although during the period of time when days are shortest the vegetables do not actually grow but remain alive and fresh for harvesting. There are detailed instructions and great photos showing how to build each of the season extenders, but the cold frames are what intrigued me the most. The new potager design I am working on includes two beds along the back fence, facing south, which are 2'x8' each. I think it would be easy to build cold frames to put on top of these beds for use in the fall-winter-spring. I would like to grow salad greens, etc. through the winter and also use it in the spring and fall to extend the season a bit for less hardy vegetables. I am hoping that this would also make it easier to start seedlings in the late winter/early spring.

I would love to hear from anyone here who has tried using a cold frame in Oklahoma. My main concern is keeping them from getting too hot during the day. When I leave for work it can be below freezing, but during the day it might get up to 70 degrees, and I expect the cold frame would get much hotter. If I open the cold frame before I leave, and close it at night, would that work well enough? Or would I need to look at one of those automated vent openers tied to a thermometer?

Here is the link to the book on Amazon, where you can see some pages from the book and several awesome photographs:

Here is a link that might be useful: The Year-Round Vegetable Gardener

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Comments (3)

soonergrandmom
12 years ago
In my opinion you need an opener, but it doesn't require being tied to a thermometer or electricity. You can buy a cheap one if you like as long as the door it has to open is very lightweight. Harbor Frieght has a cheap one, I think. The one I had at my old house came from Johnny's and the window that it opened was 2x2 framing with a plastic film covering. It was on the north end wall of a walk-in hoophouse. I could open the door on the south wall early then as the sun heated the hoophouse, the opening would open the window and create a breeze blowing across the plants and axhausting the heat. Be sure your exhaust opening is high on the wall because the heat is going to rise.
elkwc
12 years ago
Canokie,
There are many variables that can determine whether you need a vent. If I was going to use a vent on a cold frame I would use one of the heat activated types. I will attach a link that shows what I'm talking about. Many say they work well. I have 2 that I will put in my greenhouse if I ever get it finished. On my lean to I'm installing auto operated louvers and fans thaI have never had heat issues with either of my cold frames. I keep a hi/low thermometer in each. My lean to greenhouse has way more heat issues than my cold frames ever have. On mornings where the temps have been as low as 28 degrees F I have propped the tops open 1-2 inches. This has prevented over heating along with preventing the plants from freezing. The cold frame with the tinted glass is easier to control the heat in. If I leave it closed and the temps reach 80 the max in the cold frame will be upper 90's. I have never seen the need for vents on my cold frames so far. I also dug down 6 inches deep inside the cold frame. This helps to moderate the temps also. Another thing you can do if you don't have tinted glass is to lay a shade cloth over the glass. Jay

Here is a link that might be useful: Greenhouse vent
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slowpoke_gardener
12 years ago
I have been thinking along those same lines. The Harbor freight brand was the cheapest I have found, but read the reviews before you buy. I had seconds thoughts.

question about cold frames - and a new gardening book

Comments (3)

soonergrandmom

elkwc

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