Oleanders are usually loose, mounding shrubs that can reach 10'x10'. No wonder yours do not bloom! Unfortunately, the unnaturally shaped 'box or ball' pruning regime is not a fast one to recover from. If pruned into a box or with squared-off edges, you might want to soften the look by slightly rounding them off. Otherwise it is just a matter of time. Eventually the shrub will begin to assume a more natural form. Removing any lower or interior branches is not going to assist with this although it could improve air circulation, which may encourage more rapid growth. All the same true for the camellias, although they can get even larger and are often trained/pruned into a tree-like form. But not a 4' box! Just say NO to the 'gardeners' with hedge trimmers :-)

Hello, Sharon4457. Why do you think the camellias are root bound? In a root bound scenario, the plant's roots grow in a circle around the edges of the pot, and growth would be stunted as the plants eventually extract all the important minerals from the potting soil. As such, the plant would not be healthy and would not be "great looking" as you said. Absent any pest problems, I would consider these possibilities: lack of nutrients, inconsistent moisture levels and weather issues. 1. Potting soil does not naturally contain nutrients so you have to fertilize "often" to add or replenish nutrients, most of which leech out due to constant watering. I wish I could define "often" for potted camellias but all my camellias are planted in the ground. They are fed cottonseed meal three times (March, May and September) per year. Other people use a general-purpose inorganic fertilizer with a NPK Ratio of 10-10-10 or so. 2. Inconsistent moisture levels can affect the number and quality of buds. By inconsistent, I mean dry spells followed by wet spells. Try to water on a schedule and maintain 2-3" of mulch to keep the soil moist and consistently humid. This is most important from the time when flower buds form in September until the buds open (which can be as late as mid-to-late spring for some varieties). You can check moisture levels by inserting a finger to a depth of 2-3 inches and take action accordingly. And continue watering during winter. 3. Weather can sometimes affect the buds. Early cold spells or temps that rise/plunge a lot fast can kill buds. This year, I had below par flower production that also was delayed from the normal December-January period all the way to two weeks ago! All because of freak cold spells last December. Bringing the plant into a protected winter location would help. Note: I did not consider the possibility of pests because you indicated that the plants were very healthy looking. Infestations of Camellia Bud Mites would cause buds to drop but, with these infestations, you would also loose some foliage, the foliage would look grayish and you would notice mite webs. Lastly, there could be something else going on. Your description of the problem did not state whether your plants are producing flower buds & whether the flower buds are still in the plant. I assumed the answer was 'yes'. Care to comment on the flower buds? Luis Here is a link that might be useful: American Camellia Society

Yes, a few look like they are pure C. japonica and others a few others may or may not be hybrids. Can't really get very far without the flowers.

First: Are all the same variety? Different varieties bloom at different times during the season, usually late Nov until May in my area. Very cold temperatures, as we experienced in early Jan, can cause the buds to remain closed. Camellias sometimes have a mind of their own and bloom at different times during some years. I have one C. japonica 'Debutante' that has bloomed early, Dec-Jan, then rested for a month or so, then began blooming again in late season. Here's a few of the more than 3,000 named cultivars of Camellias and their usual bloom times" 'Betty Sheffield Supreme' - Late; large; red. 'Berenice Boddy' - Midseason; medium; light pink. 'Daikagura' - Early-late; large; rose-red. 'Debutante' - Early-midseason; medium-large, pink. 'Desire' - Midseason; medium large; pale pink. 'Kramer's Supreme' - Midseason; very large; red. 'Kumasaka' - Midseason-late; medium-large; pink. 'Lady Clare' - Midseason-late; large; dark pink; above-average cold hardiness. 'Magnoliaeflora' - Midseason; medium; pale-pink. 'Mathotiana' - Midseason-late; very large; crimson. 'Guilio Nuccio' - Midseason; very large; rose. 'Nuccio's Gem' - Midseason; medium-large, white. 'Pink Perfection' - Early; large; pink. 'R.L. Wheeler' - Late; large; red. 'C.M. Hovey' - Late; large; red. 'La Peppermint' - Late; medium; white w/pink center stripe. 'Jury's Yellow' - Late; medium; creamy white to pale yellow. 'Morning Glow' - Midseason; medium; pure white. 'Prof. Charles S. Sargent' - Early to late; medium; red. 'Governor Mouton' - Midseason; medium; red w/white splotches. I grow most of the cultivars listed above, plus many others. The only ones that have bloomed so far, are 'Debutante' & 'Prof. Charles S. Sargent' and the early Jan. freeze killed all of the blooms. They are just beginning to resume blooming, after the recent warmer temperatures. All of the others still have tight buds, but with a hint of color. Some years there is a magnificent show of flowers, other years, there are a series of color, then brown, mushy globs! Just be patient, the later the buds decide to open, there's more of a chance to enjoy them!