I also needed to buy some bagged soil over winter and don't remember if it was a Lowe's brand or MG but it was much more chunky, and labeled for palms & citrus. It's the best bagged potting soil I've encountered, hardly any peat which, IME, is just stuff that helps me kill plants, not keep them healthy. I've been thinking about getting more since I like how it has 'done' so far, not compacting or getting hydrophobic, though I know the chunks of organic materials will decompose quickly in the Alabama weather this summer, just like mix that I create with bark/mulch/similar stuff. So, when using a potting mix with organic ingredients (can decompose into smaller bits,) know that it will become less and less hospitable for roots to thrive, because the air spaces are eliminated as the tiny particles sift into them, and the growth of roots squeeze the air out of the pot, necessitating repotting more often, I do this annually. A mix of ingredients that don't decompose, or decompose much more slowly can allow plants to go 2-3 years, generally, before repotting is critical - from that particular angle. I think woody entities stay more healthy if their roots are trimmed annually, but this can be a daunting chore for some larger plants. Not a 1-size-fits-all thing, or 1-sided issue, largely dependent on your style, schedule, budget, etc... It's also good to know that the soil you used has fertilizer in it. It should say how long that is expected to last. Adding more fertilizer before then would definitely be overkill for something as slow-growing as a Dracaena. Whatever one is using, don't pack it in the pot. Leave it 'fluffed' and full of tiny air pockets. The first few times you water, don't avoid being thorough, but try for a gentle sprinkle, so the motion and weight of the water doesn't compact the soil. This gives roots access to oxygen and moisture at the same time, necessary for them to be healthy, as said above. Not to put too fine of a point on the water thing, but aside from being unnecessarily expensive (if actually filtered in a way that it contains no minerals, fluoride, chlorination, etc...,) bottled water has a wide range of possibilities, including being tap water just like what comes out of your own tap. Also common is spring/mineral water, containing unknown substances that may or may not be appreciated by any particular plant. Once water hits the ground anywhere, it can contain various substances, like lime which can alter PH. Distilled, rain, and condensate from dehumidifier or A/C are sources of water with "nothing in it," assuming it's collected in a clean container.

Hi all, thanks for all the advice; I went out today in an attempt to make a cozy new home for my poor ailing jade. I bought I believe a 3'' circumference unglazed clay pot with a drainage hole and a dish, a bag of perlite, and a bag of orchard bark. They didn't have any kind of mix, except the cactus soil that I've been using. Should I just mix the perlite and the bark, or does it need anything else? I've heard undyed aquarium rocks were good too... Doug, thanks for the info; it's currently outside and gets some direct light right now. It was inside on a ledge next to a window getting very indirect sun all winter; I moved it out when the leaves started drooping for no apparent reason thinking that maybe it needed more sun.

So sorry to hear about the loss of your father. And I understand about wanting to keep his little tree going. Some things to help: First, if you're seeing teeny black flies crawling on the soil, and flying around, they most likely are fungus gnats, as Dave has mentioned. Fungus gnats thrive in too moist soil. So, the very first thing I would recommend is to re-pot your little tree in better draining soil. If you search this forum for "511" or "gritty mix", you'll come up with some good potting soil recipes. Or, if you can find bagged Farfard Professional Potting soils in your area, they also will work. Again, search this forum for "farfard" for the best choices. Citrus do not tolerate soggy soils well at all, and will suffer from root rot, besides promoting pests such as fungus gnats, which can damage tender feeder roots. Next, moisture meters (of this caliber) can be pretty inaccurate. You can try using one, but you're better off just using a stick inserted down to the bottom of your pot. Checking the soil moisture down to the bottom, to make sure you're not retaining a puddle of water at the bottom of the pot. As far as fertilizers, most folks on this list use DynaGro Foliage Pro, and you can supplement with Osmocote Plus, which is a time release fertilizer with a good NPK ratio plus all the micros. The Dynamite Select All Purpose will also work. Use the Foliage Pro with every watering. Skip the Tanglewood - your tree is much too small for that, and really, this product is used in citrus culture to keep ants off of outdoor trees. This will not prevent the types of indoor pests that plaque indoor citrus, including fungus gnats. Put your tree outside as much as you can during the year. Most folks will acclimate their trees to the outside slowly, over a couple of weeks as soon as temps allow. Don't do it too early, as you don't want to end up with the tree exposed to temps below freezing, but citrus are outdoor plants, so as much total outdoor time, the better for the tree. Lastly, to treat the fungus gnats. Use Gnatrol. Works extremely well. You might need a few applications as a soil soak, but that will take care of them. Be sure to treat all your indoor plants, as they will spread from plant to plant. Patty S.

In the second pic you've got a very nice clump of sanseveria (snake plant) it prefers low to medium light and likes to dry quite a bit between waterings and the other plants in that pot are Kalanchoe thyrsiflora (maybe flapjack) it also likes to dry between waterings but would prefer to be in direct sun for most of the day so I would recommend separating them from the snake, they'll get big if they have more room and sun, also use a very fast draining potting soil like a cactus or succulent mix. The third pic looks like a very sad and shriveled jade plant (Crassula 'Gollum') he also likes to dry between waterings but it looks like that might have been taken a bit too far. I would put him in bright, mostly indirect light, and water well but not until the soil dries (there is a tendency to overcompensate by over watering a plant that has been stressed by drought so watch out for that) a lot or even most of those leaves may fall off but keep the faith, if you keep at it it will come back, it's a pretty cool plant, I have one just like it. In the fourth pic you have a very Haworthia that has some crispy leaves on the bottom, in my experience, this often happens when the bottom leaves are in contact with the wet soil for too long, they get kinda rotty and then they dry up. I would pull or cut them off and make sure the leaves are not touching the soil, if they are, you might want to put a layer of gravel over the top of the soil to create a barrier between the moist soil and the leaves. These are all succulents and they all like to dry between waterings, they also like sun but, aside from the kalanchoe, not hot, intense sun all day, a half day would probably be good except for the sans which doesn't need any direct sun but will tolerate some early morning or late afternoon sun. Good luck, you've got a nice collection of plants with some great potential.