I also needed to buy some bagged soil over winter and don't remember if it was a Lowe's brand or MG but it was much more chunky, and labeled for palms & citrus. It's the best bagged potting soil I've encountered, hardly any peat which, IME, is just stuff that helps me kill plants, not keep them healthy. I've been thinking about getting more since I like how it has 'done' so far, not compacting or getting hydrophobic, though I know the chunks of organic materials will decompose quickly in the Alabama weather this summer, just like mix that I create with bark/mulch/similar stuff. So, when using a potting mix with organic ingredients (can decompose into smaller bits,) know that it will become less and less hospitable for roots to thrive, because the air spaces are eliminated as the tiny particles sift into them, and the growth of roots squeeze the air out of the pot, necessitating repotting more often, I do this annually. A mix of ingredients that don't decompose, or decompose much more slowly can allow plants to go 2-3 years, generally, before repotting is critical - from that particular angle. I think woody entities stay more healthy if their roots are trimmed annually, but this can be a daunting chore for some larger plants. Not a 1-size-fits-all thing, or 1-sided issue, largely dependent on your style, schedule, budget, etc... It's also good to know that the soil you used has fertilizer in it. It should say how long that is expected to last. Adding more fertilizer before then would definitely be overkill for something as slow-growing as a Dracaena. Whatever one is using, don't pack it in the pot. Leave it 'fluffed' and full of tiny air pockets. The first few times you water, don't avoid being thorough, but try for a gentle sprinkle, so the motion and weight of the water doesn't compact the soil. This gives roots access to oxygen and moisture at the same time, necessary for them to be healthy, as said above. Not to put too fine of a point on the water thing, but aside from being unnecessarily expensive (if actually filtered in a way that it contains no minerals, fluoride, chlorination, etc...,) bottled water has a wide range of possibilities, including being tap water just like what comes out of your own tap. Also common is spring/mineral water, containing unknown substances that may or may not be appreciated by any particular plant. Once water hits the ground anywhere, it can contain various substances, like lime which can alter PH. Distilled, rain, and condensate from dehumidifier or A/C are sources of water with "nothing in it," assuming it's collected in a clean container.

Azhure, I have houseplants year-round, and it gets to 30 below here sometimes. I keep my plants near lamps(regular table lamps), using compact fluorescent(spiral)bulbs. They don't necessarily thrive, but they do ok through the winter. You want to hold back on fertilizing during the winter as this is a dormant time for most plants, starting them back on a feeding schedule in the spring. Some do well all year inside, like African Violets, Spider Plant, and a few I will put out in nicer weather, but not full sun for the summer...Tradescantia(Wandering Jew), Swedish Ivy, Philodendron. I also have over wintered hot pepper plants this way. Hope this helps.

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I live in the UK and see Cordyline australis everywhere. Indivisa isn't so common though, I know there are some in very wet parts of the UK like some gardens in Northern Ireland and Devon. Occasionally we have a cold winter and there's a mass die off inland, but it's no big deal really. Most come back very strongly from the roots, especially if they were a large, mature plant before they died in the winter they reach their former size in a couple of years and come back very fast from a strong root system with fresh, new growth. What actually kills them is when you see well-meaning but misguided people wrapping them up in winter with bubble wrap and frost fleece. It's the worst thing to do in my opinion, these things hate to be soaking wet in winter and the frost protection people put round them just makes them rot. I don't protect my ones that are in the ground. If they die back they dieback, the soil doesn't freeze deep enough in Britain to kill them in most cases. Container ones i just put in a cold greenhouse to keep them from dying from the damp of winter which is the real cause of death. I have noticed a lot of variation in the plants grown here. Some are very narrow leaved, but mature plants are usually wide leaved, not sure if the leaves get wider over time or different varieties are tougher. I suspect the narrow leaved plants are the "Atlantic green" variety whereas the wider leaved ones are generic australis with maybe some indivisa introgression, although according to something i read somewhere the narrow leaved varieties are meant to be hardier. I've also never seen a mature, large plant of the red, pink or variegated varieties though i know some examples exist, they're probably less hardy and were perhaps selected from stock from the North island.