Acer Rubrum Redpointe - Pictures Anyone???
sam268
14 years ago
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Embothrium
14 years agosam268
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Acer platanoides 'Emerald Queen'
Comments (17)Thanks. I have already bookmarked a dozen websites of universities, municipalities, state agencies, and societies that promote conservation and/or native plants, all of which detail the problems of this tree. Only one, if I recall specifically addresses the controversy over whether or not named cultivars have the same problems as the species. It consists of the minutes of a meeting about whether to include cultivars on a list, and there is an argument that they should be included until proven non-invasive, instead of the other way around. The nursery owner is not willing to do anything, and states that the cultivar is not invasive. I emailed him this morning offering to pay the labor and difference in material cost to plant something else. I know the town is also planting Kwanzan cherries, so I don't see why they would care. My community is very conservation minded, we have a program underway to remove phragmites from the wetlands, there is an active conservation commission, as well as a broader council that tries to protect our river estuary environment. I'm guessing these folks would be surprised to know that the town is planting Norways. Funny thing, though, that I just remembered this morning, when the nursery guy first got out of his truck, he told me he was planting red maples. It wasn't until he had them off the truck and the holes dug that I went over and looked at the tags. Hmmm. Maybe the town thinks they're planting the native Acer rubrum?...See MoreInteresting (to me) maple graft and Acer compatibilities
Comments (12)pteroceltis, It looks like you have a bit more experience with this tree than I do. As you can see by my User Name, I'm a big fan of Acer griseum. Here's what I do know that may help you: Seeds: Most seeds contain an embryo and hardly any endosperm to speak of. Another plant that shares this characteristic is the orchid. Understanding how the orchid propagates naturally by seed, I think, can help us understand how griseum does as well. The orchid bursts out millions of dust-like seeds on the forest floor. Those that land on a specific fungi will find the nutrients necessary for the seed to germinate. On their own, they do not have the CHO or the proteins to create roots or shoots. Likewise, griseum needs a food-source for germination. Also, the casing is extremely hard and thick. Scarification really isn't enough. It's a wonder that the tree has made it this far in evolution. Forgive me if you don't believe in evolution. Whether we came from a similar ancestor as the monkey or not, plants do adapt over time, and natural selection does occur. Anyway, some propagators have had success using this understanding and have almost surgically removed the embryos and placed them in a nutrient-rich petri-dish. The embryo germinates and we have a new plant. Vegetative propagation: The general rule is, the younger the stem tissue, the more likely it will root. Seedling cuttings root pretty easily. But, seedlings are small and have very little stem to use. It's like a cycle: Take a seedling, cut it, root it, you now have another seedling. And, to get the original seedling, you have to get the seed to germinate. The trick we use is to almost force the well-established stock plant to succor: Hack it down low to the ground. Then, several immature stems come up. Then, use those to root. But, you have to let it grow green a little to continue to feed the roots. So, let one stem grow as a leader for the season. Ok, that's griseum. But, the other plant you mentioned was cappadocicum. I will not pretend to be an expert on this plant. I know that it is related to truncatum; which easily hybridizes with platanoides (Norway). Is Norway not an aggressive weed up in your part of the country? So, my assumption - and sorry this was so long - my assumption is that Forestfarm used cappadocicum as a rootstock because of it's aggressive tendencies to your area. But, it is not as aggressive as platanoides. So, you have a rootstock that will be extremely successful in your area with an ornamental top. Here's the concern: Maples are broken down into several groups. There really should be several genus' to break them down. Perhaps there will some day. For example, the Sugar Maple Group contains: Sugar, Silver, Red, Bigtooth Boxelder, Black, and some others. Japanese, for example, is not one of them. Nor is griseum. However, Boxelder is. Follow me here. The more related they are, the more compatible they are and the more likely the graft will take and last. I talked with a professor by e-mail at Penn State a few years ago. He was doing a test on graft compatibility of a Red scion and a Sugar stock. It looked successful for six years. During the seventh year, the graft split and the trees fell at the graft. I don't know if griseum and cappadocicum are in the same group or not. I don't believe they are. However, Boxelder is trifolate and is in the Sugar group. cappadocicum is almost a webbed palm. As far as maples go, there isn't a more entire leaf that I've seen. It's the flower, fruit and seed that determines the relatedness, not the leaf. So, I'd ask Forestfarm just how long this union has lasted in their experience. Just because it took in the greenhouse and lasted a few years at the farm, does not mean it will last for a lifetime in someone's landscape. I'm sorry if I confused or frustrated you. I just want you to understand why I would check with the grower their success on it. I'd hate your favorite tree to fall over one of the years during a wind storm. ericpaul...See MoreAcer Rubrum Roots
Comments (20)This topic about red maple growing has become quite a debate! I am not sure what anyone really knows, and not sure what I really know, but I will chime in anyway. I have loved red maple for many years. For a long time I thought sugar maple was the only really good maple for my area, but I have opened my eyes. I commented earlier about the surface roots issue, and I stand by that comment. The trees in my woodland are approaching 80 years old, so if the surface roots develop "eventually," it should not be a problem, one need think much about when planting a young red maple tree, unless one has the kind of soil conditions I and one or two others here have noted. And these trees don't live for much over 150 years, at best, anyway. So if in my woods it is not a problem after 80 years, I would not worry much about it. As for size and the sustainability of growth rates, red maple is not "bad" in this regard. What I mean, is that a red maple is not going to drastically slow down in its growth rates after about 30 years or so. I recently read an article based on forest research which said that red maple has a better sustained growth rate after age 80 than black cherry. I note information like this because it affects my silvicultural harvest plans. Overall, red maple is generally classed as a moderately large tree. In the forest it can easily exceed 100 feet on good sites and can be substantially taller. Growing more in the open as an ornamental/shade tree on properties with good soil, it can easily top 60 to 70 feet and eventually grow between two and three feet in diameter. As for the named cultivars: what information I have been able to find about their growth rates and eventual size is very spotty. It is my impression that the freeman hybrids grow faster and perhaps larger than the regular red maple cultivars. As for the red maple cultivars, I do believe that at least some of these do not grow as fast or large as the wild "species." Some of them are selected not only for their color but for their growth form--crown shape, compactness/density, etc. I have been confused by the information tags on trees sold in nurseries. I think some of the confusion comes from the fact that the size estimates are often based on some time period, something like 10 or 15 years. Other times the trees have tags that indicate some postulated "eventual" height, but what assumptions this is based on I have no idea. Probably the most important variable is the site quality--the soil, etc. that the tree is growing on. On lots with avarage to fair soils, I would expect a regular red maple to achieve something like 50 feet in 50 years after being planted as a six foot tree. On the better sites I would think something like 65 feet would be more likely. I suspect, and I really mean "suspect," that some of the popular cultivars may do somewhat less, but not dramatically less. --Spruce...See MoreAcer rubrum Red Rocket
Comments (3)I agree could have picked a more eloquent name! I planted 3 of these along with an october glory all 4-5 feet tall grown in smart pots purchased from Sooner plant farm. I had the soil tested at multiple spots. Near the ridge above a ravine where I planted these trees the soil test showed ph 6.2 phosphorus 15 potassium 212 organic matter 2%. ag extension office suggested adding phosphorus 75 lbs per acre. Anyone agree or have other suggestions? I was pleased with soil test as my soil definitely has some clay component and I was expecting alkaline ph. The only sample that was alkaline was a few feet next to foundation of house where it is heavy clay ph 7.7 there....See MoreEmbothrium
13 years ago
gardener365
13 years ago
D McElhaney Sr
9 years agoDay late and a dollar short, but here is my RedPoint Maple Tree. It was planted in 2009 from a 15 gal container and was at atleast 10' tall. It's now close to 18' tall and I have pruned it every year after 2011 to fine tune structure, form, and give the trunk more girth in respect to height. The tree is awesome, if you havent gotten one yet, do it. It will be loved!
tlbean2004
9 years agoD McElhaney Sr
9 years agohairmetal4ever
9 years agoD McElhaney Sr
9 years agoUser
8 years agoD McElhaney Sr
8 years agoUser
8 years agoPecci
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoPecci
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoPecci
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoupdate, pic as of 04-23-2017. just leaved out. very nice tree ! fast grower ! beautiful fall colors . tree that's hard to beat overall.
dmacsimus
Pecci
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoPecci
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoPecci
7 years agoPecci
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoD McElhaney Sr
7 years agoQ. Garryana, that's the other two I have. whew, old timers is getting to me. JK
lol
D McElhaney Sr
6 years agojust within the time I posted last time. look at all the new growth. I really like these trees !
Pecci
6 years agoD McElhaney Sr
6 years agoPecci
6 years agoD McElhaney Sr
6 years agoPecci
6 years agoD McElhaney Sr
6 years agofall pic, just a tad late to get the whole effect. still beautiful fall color! really luke the tree.
D McElhaney Sr
6 years agoPecci
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoPecci
6 years agoD McElhaney Sr
6 years agoD McElhaney Sr
5 years agoupdate: 8-21-18, end of summer pic of its growth. very nice tree with no reportable problems. it does require thinning pruning, and branch selective pruning, but nothing other trees don't also require. really an all around very pleasant shade tree, for a semi fast growing shade tree. drops all of its leaves cleanly early winter, and has nice fall colors.
Pecci
5 years agoD McElhaney Sr
5 years ago
Joe Williams
4 years agoPecci
4 years agoD McElhaney Sr
4 years agoHey Joe, I have not had any problems with my tree from the ground in my area. I took this picture today, and as you can see all the leaves are a nice green color. The tree produces great colors in the fall and drops its leaves cleanly. It’s a great choice for the shade summer, sun winter option kind tree. Cheers
splaker
2 years agoJoe Williams
2 years ago
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D McElhaney Sr