That's Verticillium wilt and yes Ken, it is a soil problem. VW is a soil-borne fungal pathogen that can invade through the root system and causes the collapse of the tree's vascular system. The pathogen is very persistant - it can remain in the soil for many years in a state somewhat like dormancy and only come to life when the opportunity presents itself. Maples, and Japanese maples in particular, are very susceptible to VW and if you have lost one to VW it is recommended NOT to replant with another in the same area. Hence the suggestion for the container. I'd not recommend a container. Unless you are selecting a very dwarf form of maple, you would need one of a large size in order to guard against winter cold damage and even that would be no guarantee - trees in containers are at greater risk to cold damage than those planted in the ground and the recommendation is to select one at least 2 zones hardier, which would eliminate a JM. And you also need to be cognizant of the fact that trees in containers need regular attention in terms of periodic root pruning and soil replacement......it's a lot a of work and becomes more complicated when the tree or the container (or both) are large. As does any attempt at winter protection. If you search under the disease, you will find listings of plants that are susceptible to VW that you should avoid. You will also find listings of those that are known to be resistant and any of those could be selected if they fit your other criteria. But there're a great many more whose resistance to VW is unknown for whatever reason. It's a bit of a calculated risk to choose one of these but they also show no evidence of being prone to the problem and the assumption is they should do fine. No redbuds :-) - they too are highly susceptible. I'd consider something like a sourwood, Oxydendron, or perhaps a redleafed flowering crab. Neither are large trees, should offer some good fall color and are relatively problem-free. btw, the Parrotia will grow quite slowly and is not considered a large tree, generally only reaching around 20-25 feet. It is also known to be pretty much problem-free. Virtually all conifers are VW-resistant and they can make very attractive specimen trees, depending on selection. They are also available in very narrow forms suitable for small places or close to structures. I'd not eliminate them without further consideration. The Conifer forum could help with ideas.

The tree is about 3' high; the pot is approximately 18" in diameter, 30" deep. So the pot seems appropriately sized. ==>> i dont know about this presumption.. w/o a pic.. it sounds like a 5 gallon pot.. which might be small for a 3 foot tree ... regardless.. trees. in general.. do NOT like a lot of water ... they like a drink.. and then near full drainage.. and near drying in between ... which brings me to the issue .. IMHO ... whats the potting media...??? if you are watering it.. like a water loving annual .. or perennial.. and basically.. never letting it near dry.. i think you are drowning it.. and once the roots start reacting.. the usual result.. is leaf damage .. no matter how much you water.. once the roots rot.. the leaves cant get water.. which .. if i am right.. means all MONTHLY [which seems excessive] fungicide was a waste.. and PERHAPS.. the key is.. when you said: It's well watered; in fact last summer one concern was that maybe I wasn't watering it enough (I know maples like water), but this summer I've been more generous, so if i am right.. and do understand.. its all speculation.. that it had a root rot type problem.. your increasing water.. only increased the problem... it probably boils down.. to you trying to kill it. with TOO MUCH love ... what is the potting media. .. did you do any kind of root surgery prior to repotting... was it badly rootbound when you stuck it in this pot ... and can we see a picture?? trees.. really should be in mother earth .. because.. growing them in pots .. is VERY hard ... is there any chance you can free it??? ken

Thanks everyone for all of the good info! We just dug up the stump, and I am sorry to say that "We have met the enemy, and he is US!". There was not any sign of galls on the roots or anywhere else. However, some of the main roots were completely rotted, and there were fungus fruits 1-2 inches under the soil all over - they looked like small squashed grey mushrooms - yuck! When we took out the jade plant, we put in irrigation, which was part of our automatic irrigation system. I am guessing that that bed was WAY too wet, and basically that rose just rotted. When my DH cut up the 3 inch in diameter main canes down near the bud union, they both were dark brown in the center. So, we dug up the soil, and replaced it with new soil, and I went to look for some sort of fungicide drench to pour over the new soil and the rest of the bed. Then I plan to leave it until next Spring. I went to my nursery (it is the one described at the Sac Cemetery rose symposium as "the oldest continuously operating nursery in California" - the West End Nursery in San Rafael). The owner is very knowledgeable about many things, although they do not specialize in roses. He recommended "AGRI-FOS, which is a systemic fungicide that can be used as a spray or a drench, and kills many different fungus diseases. You can also use it to soak new plant roots in before planting. He said that anything else that might work is illegal in CA, as they have made most of the chemicals illegal. He laughed and said that they cannot make this one illegal, as it is the only thing that works to prevent sudden oak death! So, we got some and drenched the area. I disconnected the irrigation, which is turned off now anyway. We will see what happens to the little polyantha rose - if it is still OK next Spring I am planning on planting a Reve d"or to replace the GS. Jackie

I also recently acquired an A.p. "Shaina" and am satisfied with its newly emerging growth. That tree almost looks like "Fireglow" which is also a dwarf cultivar similar to Shaina. The central leaf lobe isnt really that blunt like Shaina usually is, but I'm by no means an expert... My particular tree is blazing red on the outside leaves and fades to a deep purple/green as you work towards the shaded center...only gets about 6hrs of direct morning/mid-day sun so I guess thats why its not as red as yours. A touch of gentle pruning to clean up the base and expose the main trunk/trunks would make that tree sing!! Oh yeah...about the sudden death thing. I also read the same stuff and dont know what to make of those claims. If mine is somehow genetically more "prone" to sudden death, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.It sure seems happy now... If you havent been told already, plant your new tree in a spot that provides sufficint drainage. Japanes maples dont really do well in soggy, poor draining soil. Its also usually a good idea to provide some afternoon shade. Not to say you cant plant it out in all day sun, but protection from the hot afternoon sun usally makes 'em happy...all depends on where you live.