Hi, I think that whatever happens to this tree (and I hope it's alright), you need to relax just a bit, or you might stress out the next trees with too much caring - believe me, I've done it. First, are you sure the webs you saw were in fact from red spider mites, or possibly only some little garden spider that wouldn't necessarily have been a problem? Secondly, you ran and applied two different and rather serious chemicals to the tree, when in fact if you did have mites, a good hosing down with water, and possibly a couple of drops of detergent in the water, would have sufficed. It's hard to say now whether the chemicals did in your tree or not, whether it was the hosing you gave it (on top of your twice wkly watering, which it might not have needed, or the compost soil mix which probably was too 'soggy' for maples, who don't like wet feet. Next time take one step at a time, be sure you're addressing the actual problem with the right remedy, and do a bit of reading on soil mixes for diff. trees. Boy, is it ever easy to give advice when it's not my tree in trouble :-). Sorry.

Amending the soil in any way is old "wisdom". All current research tells us that using native soil -- and choosing plants that adapt to our native soil -- is the answer to long-term success. Plantings of Japanese maples throughout California also show that it's not the "pH" that makes a difference. Japanese maples do fine in high pH (alkaline) soils. It's our hard water (MUCH harder in our area and south than up north where lucky Al lives) that causes the yellowing and outright "burn" of maple foliage (not sun, nor wind, btw). Yes, hard water is alkaline but it's the mineral content that is the issue, not the alkalinity. Al points out that drainage is key, which goes to our hard water. Poorly drained soils accumulate the salts. Just as does watering frequently and shallowly (as almost all gardeners do with everything) does. Amending only compounds a poor drainage issue. Engineering a drainage fix is the only answer. And Al is very right about planting too deeply; seen it too many times. But "16 square feet"?! Also, the native mineral component of the soil pretty much dictates what the pH is going to be. Organic matter has little and only short-term impact. But a good mulch on Japanese maples helps maintain soil moisture and keeps the soil cooler, both JM needs. Add a little shade and you've got it (although 'Sango-kaku' colors best in sun). If you still have some tip-burn from hard water, leach the soil monthly duing the summer months with REALLY DEEP waterings. Japanese maples in containers show tip burn from our hard water even more. Same solution: water deeply. Finally, B1 is a myth and a scam. It does nothing. Joe

The graft should be a bit above the soil line minumum or higher (or you're at least you'll eventually going to get sprouting from the root stock and shpuild ghave already... how deep is too deep depends alot on how high it is grafted and since you can't find the root flair it could be high who knows!!...It is also not a good sign that you have not, I assume, gotten root stock sprouting from a graft below soil level which a healthy plant would do if planted at that level ...dig that sucker out as suggested and replant propery somewhere else and if it still putters around by next fall torch it!! David

Thanks, you all! These are really great suggestions and will help us a lot. First, re the clerodendrum: I read somewhere that it was vw resistant, so I planted it in another part of the yard where another jap. maple had died (smaller, we pulled the stump out ourselves), and it's *thrived* there, so much that we have to scramble to keep the babies under control. But we have one baby that has grown up pretty nicely and I'm thinking of transferring him over to this place, because he's certainly not been affected thus far. oilpainter, I wish I'd gotten it cut down further when the treecutting guy was here. I only have an ax, and swinging it sideways when it's already that low...I just don't have a good feeling about that. I may have to just drill holes where it is now and do either the nitrogen method or the burn method. I really appreciate your thoughts and advice on this process. Another thing re the clerodendrum: I'm actually in no rush to plant again, since the light has been most welcome today. We've lived kind of in a northern-exposure cave with the tree overhanging the window since we moved here -- it's wonderful to see the sun back behind our house...my DH wants the tree but I almost think I'd be content with a bush or something that would be able to handle the vw without blocking the light. As a transplant from NC to OR, I *MISS* the sun! Thanks again.