Correct. That's the old way.

To tell the truth, in SoCal you are likely to have problems due to the near neutral soil whereas JMs do best with acid soil), also with the high temps & low humidity in your region.

I suggest you try your first efforts in pots.

Jean,
who previously gardened in Long Beach, CA,for 30-some years.

I have one that's been doing well in Santa Clarita for about 4 or 5 years. This was before I got into the gardening and fruit trees where I now know a little better on how to plant things right. I did as you described (the old way). At first I planted it facing south to get full sun but it burnt up and almost died.

A few weeks later I moved it to a spot that is almost always in shade and it has liked this spot very much. It was about 1 foot tall when it was planted and it's now almost 3' and speading well. It does need a little pruning and weeding though, haha

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The planting directions you were given were reasonable if not confined to the "planting hole". If you want to amend as directed, it should be at LEAST an area of 16 sq. feet. Most nursery people giving you planting directions do not know your soil, and must assume the worst. They probably also warned you about the most common mistake with tree planting, PLANTING TOO DEEP. Trying to do a good job, gardeners tend to dig a deep planting hole, amending the soil DEEP to help provide drainage. After planting the tree all the "loosened" up soil under the tree settles. Soon you notice your new tree is below the surrounding soil and with water, from rain or other source, is in a puddle. By the way, all the amendments suggested will have an increased acid effect, as Jean suggests, a benefit for your tree. Al

Amending the soil in any way is old "wisdom". All current research tells us that using native soil -- and choosing plants that adapt to our native soil -- is the answer to long-term success.

Plantings of Japanese maples throughout California also show that it's not the "pH" that makes a difference. Japanese maples do fine in high pH (alkaline) soils. It's our hard water (MUCH harder in our area and south than up north where lucky Al lives) that causes the yellowing and outright "burn" of maple foliage (not sun, nor wind, btw). Yes, hard water is alkaline but it's the mineral content that is the issue, not the alkalinity.

Al points out that drainage is key, which goes to our hard water. Poorly drained soils accumulate the salts. Just as does watering frequently and shallowly (as almost all gardeners do with everything) does. Amending only compounds a poor drainage issue. Engineering a drainage fix is the only answer. And Al is very right about planting too deeply; seen it too many times. But "16 square feet"?!

Also, the native mineral component of the soil pretty much dictates what the pH is going to be. Organic matter has little and only short-term impact.

But a good mulch on Japanese maples helps maintain soil moisture and keeps the soil cooler, both JM needs. Add a little shade and you've got it (although 'Sango-kaku' colors best in sun). If you still have some tip-burn from hard water, leach the soil monthly duing the summer months with REALLY DEEP waterings.

Japanese maples in containers show tip burn from our hard water even more. Same solution: water deeply.

Finally, B1 is a myth and a scam. It does nothing.

Joe

One thing I do is save rainwater and soak them to get the hard water residue below the root system. It does seem to help. Mine have taken a few years, but are so beautiful. Mine were very unhappy in pots. They've been much happier in the ground. A good mulch of compost regularly renewed helps a lot, and give them time, they're slow to get going. A little soil sulpher every year has been beneficial as well. I'll try to get some photos tomorrow.

I made the assumption that the trees you purchased were in containers and thus not in your native soil. Amending your soil will provide soil closer to the potting mix your trees are now in. An area of 16 square feet equals a 4x4 foot area of this amended soil, avoiding a line of unequal soil which may tend to inhibit the roots from the container soil willingly extending into a possibly compacted clay. If however your trees were purchased bare root, I would not suggest amending your existing soil. Al

>>> Amending your soil will provide soil closer to the potting mix your trees are now in.
...
If however your trees were purchased bare root, I would not suggest amending your existing soil. Al

Wow, I'd never heard that distinction before, but it makes sense. Others?

Perhaps because the plant roots will tend to stay in the soil they're accustomed to, rather than venturing out into "alien territory", so to speak?

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Wow, I'd never heard that distinction before, but it makes sense. Others?

No.

As above, if amending the entire volume of soil that the mature plant will occupy, great. Otherwise, no. Arboricultural texts spend much time on this.

Dan

I think it is important to remember the nursery is selling trees to the general public with no expectations of tree culture experience. For myself when planting a container or ball and burlap tree I examine the roots and often find it necessary to dig into them and loosen the root ball. The B&B is always in clay as it was field grown. The container tree may have been grown in a container or more often it was purchased by the retail nursery bare root and planted into a container. If this was done the same year the soil will often fall off the roots when removed from the container. In this case I treat it as a bare root and plant accordingly. Sometimes it has been in the container for several years, the soil exhausted and surviving on fertilizer dissolved in the water. If not planted within a day or two it will wilt badly. If this plant is simply dropped into a hole dug to fit it will think it is still in the container and if not watered daily will wilt and die quickly. Can the nursery depend on the buyer knowing what to do? It is I think easier to give the instructions regarding amending the soil, at least guaranteeing the possibly terrible soil will at least be broken up. I personally never amend the soil but I do assure the root ball is broken up and the native soil is dug and loosened up as I mentioned for a 4x4 foot area. Al

I love Japanese Maples. I have planted alot of them..
I simply dig a hole and put it in. They mostly grow faster than text books have specified. I don't amend, into the clay soil it goes! I top dress with 1" grow mulch every year or two. Sometimes very little fertilizer.

The ones that are in container will root via the drainage holes into the ground, sometimes woody tap root.

The only losses I have all happens with transplanting in summer (After June first), that involves taking it from the ground into a container and not getting enough roots. Or with patio container ones that did not get enough water during heat wave.

I posted some pictures at the maple forum. Here is one.

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Forgot to say, very often the bigger containers are B&B from Oregon, they have a real tan/clay color clay soil. I was given good advice on how to deal with them. I was told the water here does not penetrate well into Oregon clay soil (something about ions?), and the ball of clay should be carefully cracked up for planting, to allow better chance of water pentration and survival.

I am just passing along information and this is something I have done also, the burlap is completely discarded.

It doesn't sound like Beni Oshi and Emperor One would be B&B as I most I have seen are containers.