Hi Fleur I am unsure weather you are talking geraniums or pelargoniums. If Pelargoniums, just send in plastic bag with no moisture. If you wrap with wet or moist media the cuttings get blackleg and are unusable. I have used this method and it is very reliable.

DO NOT CUT THE ROOTS .. any more than necessary ... hosta store energy from July on .. so as to pop out of the ground in spring ... they come up on stored energy .. and if you cut off the stored energy .. well i am sure you see the issue ... i have had a lot of trouble with peat based potting soil .. in my pure sand ... ergo .. i would tend to recommend blasting it all off with the hose ... just about as hard a blast as you can do ... just short of blasting off the roots ... beat it on a tree if you want to get it all off ... HOWEVER .... when my garden was a good sandy loam .. with lots of loam/compost ... i would just shake them out of the pot.. and stick them in the ground ... period.. never had a problem ... the problem is that my sand wicks all the water out of the peat .. and i can never re-wet it in the ground ... but the BOTTOM LINE... as always is this.. THEY ARE HOSTA ... stick them in the ground.. water them .. and walk away .. NEVER over think your hosta. .. dig hole.. remove from pot.. insert in ground.. try to drown them .. and be happy .... good luck ken PS: i am sure in 3 days ... someone will ask me to repeat this.. lol ... forget about tape and all that .. they will be dormant in a month ... protect them from heave .. which is in another recent post.. who is supposed to link that.. so i dont have to type it all again .. bunny????

I have a special vibrating cutting tool I use for this. I know you're not going to go out and spend a couple hundred bucks to cut rock back. The only other way that has always worked the best is a good old sharp bladed utility knife. Just measure the old frames thickness and subtract that thickness from the new one. That's the distance you'll need to remove. I always measure from the inside wall to the edge of the rock and subtract the distance evenly all the way around. You just make a line all the way around the wall where you need to cut. The you cut down the line with your knife. You'll have to make numerous passes down the lines until you've cut through the rock. Just be patient and careful. It won't take you that long to get it cut out. The area from the edge of the interior wall where the rock goes in and butts the window is called a "Sheetrock Return". Here in MN we don't see that very often when replacing windows. Most of our windows have the wall rock stopping at the windows Rough Opening edge. We then have what we call a "Jamb Extension" applied to the window to flush the window to the wall. Then we apply interior casing around the window. If we are using a vinyl window that doesn't come with jambs to accommodate the wall thickness, we make a "Jamb Box". The jam box is the four pieces of jamb extenders nailed together with the interior casing already applied. Ounce the window is installed and insulated the jamb box slides into the opening and nailed in place through the casing. Very fast and clean! Good Luck!!!

Are you talking about Mexican Sage? They die back in the winter and come back in the spring. If not, just cut a 4-6" cutting, remove all but the top leaves and any flower stalks, dip them in rooting hormone and put them into a mix of 75% potting soil and 25% perlite. In your zone, they should root pretty easily, but start as many as possible just in case. Mexican sage can be rooted the same way, but they root best in the late spring and summer from softwood cuttings.