I ALWAYS play nice (well, at least MOST of the time!!!) Okay, pictures have been taken - but not DL'd to computer yet (I'm surfing @ poolside via WiFi... Oh the SACRIFICES I have to make! ;-) I think I've been inspired to post an addendum to my "Garden Page" (you can get there from my webpage, linked below). I haven't done it yet, but I'll try to post my GH erection efforts "Step-By-Step." They won't be as good as conifers'/Dax's pictorial, but I'll do my best (Gotta "Give Back to the Community," right?!!) I think the wood-cutting is still a "hair" off, but the 'errors' will be put on the back-side (next to a fence, where no one will ever walk / have an opportunity to bend the aluminum base). Or maybe I'll add some skinny/lath/shim kinda material for the Too hot to dig up veggies right now, so I'll postpone that 'til early evening (or early tomorrow morning). I'll probably move my "boring observations" to the webpage (When I start it!). I'll just make note, on here, when I post updates - so I won't bore everyone with my long-winded commentary!!! Of course, I'm *sure* I'll have more questions as I go through this - and I *will* post those questions here! And I just thought of another Q: Should I paint the RW base before I assemble it? If so, white (for reflective qualities)? Or black (for heat-sinking)??? Or should I just hold off on that altogether (bearing in mind that it'll be easier to paint BEFORE I assemble it)??? Any thoughts...??? Thanks - AGAIN - for all the support, insight and advice! And thanks - in advance - for enduring my upcoming questions!!! You guys ROCK!!! -Nancy Here is a link that might be useful: IMQTPI's Garden Page (I'll update it soon!!!)

Glad you got a camera digital makes life so much easier. Sony makes very good products. You will enjoy the camera a lot. A Harley ???? All of my friends are buying them. I owned so many bikes that I never want another, except for a dirt bike but there is no dirt just sand so it is 4 wheels for me. Do you ride it also? A june bug at 80 really hurts. LOL I may need to put my old copy of snag it on this machine and write a tutorial for posting pictures. Maybe someone has a good link? I am glad everyone had a good Christmas

Now keep an eye out for more each time you water and be sure to check the area where you plants are because there can be egg cases on pots, shelves etc. New growth is where you will find the newly hatched mealies so watch for them while they are still small. As long as you keep spraying at the first sign of a problem they should not get out of hand. If you have any larger plants that you can't move to water, spray and inspect be extra vigilant about checking for mealies that may be hiding. Like Denise always recommends it is good to connect with your plants each time you water them, look them over for any problems and catch them early. Mike

"@morpheuspa you think the P & K are able to absorb and stay put even with 2 flushings in the 511 mix?" Yep. P doesn't perk; it soil binds extremely firmly and heads through at about a quarter inch a year. K does perk, but at a very much slower rate than N. That's why we slow-meter this stuff. :-) P is of somewhat less concern than some will have you think it is (seriously, people go into hysterics. But it is very much a water pollutant and every soil change is a potential source of pollution). K doesn't concern me too much except in the sense that overapplication can burn initially. Micro-elements vary from copper, molybdenum, and manganese (practically as durable as P) to boron (about the same as K). Most micros are at low enough levels but...you kind of shot 12x the normal rates into the soil. I still wouldn't go into hysterics about anything, these still being within normal app rates, though--as long as the soil wasn't already high in any of the micros already, that is. So at this point, if the tree makes it and recovers and does well in spring, change the soil in June or early July. Personally, I'd break that and do it in spring, but people yell at me as soon as I recommend moving trees out of slightly toxic environments at the wrong times due to considerations of things like "toxicity." :-) I don't believe in making the ion pumps in the cells work harder than they have to. Most forms of N (with a negative or neutral charge) flush easily. Ammonium will bind, and Dyna-Gro does contain ammoniacal N, but only 2.6%. Even at 12 tsp, 0.3 tsp of binding N is not significant enough to be a major issue in and of itself when dissolved in 2 gallons of water. I'm writing a friggin' book here, but what wigs me about this stuff is their 0.1% sodium. Sodium is useless, incredibly strongly soil-binding, hard to dispel without some special work, and damaging to plants. At least they include some calcium, which will help to get rid of the damage they're allowing by including useless sodium in their mix...if the person regularly flushes out their plant. If.