The trick would be to not damage the main stem, and don't put it full sun until it has obviously established self in the soil. If it has a significant amount of roots, I'd think any peat based fine potting soil for house plants with some fertilizer built in should work just fine. Make sure the potting soil is moist before hand and then gently spread the roots out, add more soil, press down lightly and water enough to settle the soil particles in around the root hairs. Maybe plant just one of them, you'll know in a couple of weeks if it "took". You'll know that if it starts flush of new healthy growth. Someone else who is more familiar with that plant can tell you more details about on-going care.

Hi, wait for a couple more days when there's more roots (half inch perhaps) before transplanting. Do not cut off the portion in the water. Transplant to a moist soilless mix for the meanwhile. Sand or perlite mixed with peat is fine. It really doesn't matter what soilless medium you like to use. Remove any flowers that come up. It would take too much of the plant's energies to produce a flower or a leaf and that's not what you want. You want it to produce more strong roots. Place a clear plastic bag on the pot until the roots are well established. Place in indirect sunlight - never direct sunligh. Once it has rooted well, you can transplant it once more to a larger container with regular potting soil After which it leafs out and looks great, it's time to plant it in the ground. Ianna

Hi, Samantha. Before you water, it's a good idea to check to see what moisture levels are like below the surface. Use a 1/4 or 5/16" wood dowel (any hardware of home improvement store, sharpened at both ends in a pencil sharpener. You can get 2, 3, 4, from 1 - 48" dowel. Make sure at least 1 is long enough to reach the bottom of your largest pot. You can use a little science to help keep water retention at acceptable levels, more specifically you can use Newton's First Law of Motion, which states that a body in motion tends to stay in motion unless acted upon by an external force, and a body at rest tends to stay at rest unless acted upon by an external force. To apply the science, water your plant like you would if your soil allowed it w/o limitations to the plant. It doesn't, but pretend it does. When done watering, there will be a LOT of excess water left in the soil that has plenty of limiting potential. To negate that, pick the pot up by the rim, hold it over a sink, bathtub, lawn, ..... and move the plant smartly downward before sharply reversing the coarse to upward. When the direction changes from downward to upward, the excess water in the pot will continue moving downward and out the drain hole. You'll very quickly pick up the appropriate rhythm, and soon all excess water will have been removed. You can also tip your pots at about a 45* angle after watering and or add a drainage wick to a drain hole - preferably one through the bottom of the pot next to the sidewall. Compare picture B to picture A, and note the wick in picture E. These practices allow you to keep normally very water-retentive soils free of excess water and give the plant a fighting chance, free of the limitations imposed by soggy soils. You still have less aeration than you'd expect in media based on a high % of coarse material, but it's much better than suffering the limitations of a soggy soil with the same stoicism of a cow standing in a cold rain. ;-) I would do this the next time your tell (the wood dowel) says it's time to water. After flushing the soil, I'd add a recommended dose of appropriate fertilizer. 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers very closely mimic the ratio at which the plant actually USES the nutrients, and there are numerous reasons why mimicking the plants usage ratio is part of the best supplementation plan. Examples of 3:1:2 ratios are 12-4-8, 24-8-16, 9-3-6, ...... My preference is Foliage-Pro 9-3-6; this, for a number of reasons I wont list unless you're interested. If you don't understand the difference between NPK %s and NPK ratios, please ask for details. because it's an important part of your nutrient supplementation program. While it's true you needn't worry about potting soils or repotting in the immediate, these chores should be part of your regular maintenance program and something you formulate a plan around. If you don't already have a plan in place and want to have one, ask, and I'll offer some guidance that takes the plants natural rhythms into consideration. In consideration of the plant's well being, it's better to work in harmony with the plant's natural rhythms than against them. Let me know if you think there's anything I might be able to further help with or explain in more detail. Good luck. Al

"water roots" are those formed by a plant when a cutting - a slip - is grown in water only. I can't say how they differ morphologically from standard soil roots since this is not a topic I've ever studied but suffice it to say that they evolved to be able to absorb oxygen from the water - which soil roots cannot do - and some nutrients. There is a limit with this for most plants......eventually they deplete the resources available to them in just the water (unless topped up or replaced frequently) and they begin to fail. Water roots need to be carefully transitioned to a soil medium. Usually this involves dipping them into a muddy slurry before planting into regular potting soil or an interim step of growing them on in a very porous substrate like perlite and water and allowing the water to gradually evaporate almost entirely and then plant into regular potting soil. Plants grow water roots in water.......it's that simple :-) And not all plants are inclined to do this.