Pictures would help a lot!!!

Its usually too late to repot but your plants sound like they need a hero!!! I would put them in a better soil asap!!!

I would get off as much of the current soil as possible but leaving a bit wouldn't hurt. Also, if there are any brown or black slimy roots cut off ALL infected roots. I'd sprinkle a bit of cinnamon on the rest of the roots, repot, and water the plant in slowly and just a little. Then I'd give the plant a good source of humidity and bright but indirect light until new growth emerges.

Also I wouldn't add any fertilizer until the plants are actively growing. You could use Super Thrive if you happen to have any. I've had great results from it although some people don't believe it works.

And please post a picture if you can. Especially the plant with the browning leaves!!!

Where are you in California? Are these plants outside or in?

Without seeing the size pots or size of the plant, this is my best guess.

Give the plants good bright light. Move them to an area with air movement to help dry out the potting mix. If your climate is still warm, put them outdoors protected from rain and direct sun.

I wouldn't repot at this time of year unless you think you lost all the roots. Did you repot these plants for the trip or are they in the same pots they were growing in?

Try to post back with a picture and more growing information.

Jane

Thank you both for your quick responses.

I am actually in northern Oregon now, was in NYC, so the humidity has decreased some actually. I placed a dish of water near them to hopefully increase the humidity some, but could also run a room humidifier if that is recommended. The main window providing light is south facing, so I've set them away from the window in hopes to keep the light as "indirect" as possible while still getting enough and enough heat. They are indoor plants, and I am in an apartment so unfortunately setting them outside isn't really an option.

We have the ceiling fan running so I think there should be decent airflow.

They are in 6.5" x 6.5" pots, which are new pots and totally new soil, but approx. the same size as they were in before.

Pictures:

Samantha

I agree with Jane. Soak that pot!!! Also the plant looks small for that big pot full of peat.

I agree with Jane, too.

Do you know the container size? It looks large but pics can be deceiving. Also, is it plastic or clay?

I wouldn't fertilize unless you use organic, eg. Fish Emulsion. I'd also add Super Thrive.

Afterwards, place in a semi-sunny window. It should perk up.

I wouldn't re-pot. Your plant has been through enough shock.

I agree it does look pretty dry here, I was so paranoid about overwatering because the other one (not pictured) held water at a rather mucky consistency for almost 3 days! I set it out in a sunnier area and it did eventually dry out. I think this soil is more water-retentive than I'm used to and so I'm trying having some growing pains trying to figure out my relationship with it.

Also agree that the pot is a little big, it's only slightly bigger than the one it was previously in, unfortunately that was the smallest size available at the store I went to and I wanted to get them back into soil as soon as possible after the journey.

I'm still a bit nervous to soak the pot and suffer mucky soil for days after (if it is a root problem that could be the final straw), but I'm also aware that "little sips" is also not a great strategy...

Samantha, soil looks very peaty.

I use Miracle Gro, amended with perlite, coarse sand, and tiny pebbles. I also add a little peat for certain plants.

To find out size of pot, measure one side of rim across the other side. That will give you the diameter which is how containers are sized.

Fortunately, I save containers food is stored in. lol. A plastic, disposable cup will do, too. Just poke holes in the bottom, and voila, you've got a small container.

They're not fancy, but do well for cuttings, etc.

You're right, sips isn't a good strategy. It's best to water thoroughly, then let dry between watering.

Good luck

Could you put your pots permanently in the spot where you sat it to dry out? That way you could water it without worry.

birdsnblooms,

This soil is 100% Miracle Gro, I agree that creating a blend is probably going to be a much better strategy, and I will most likely go that path next, but I think it best to let the poor thing recover a bit for now, unless this is totally counter-productive and changing the soil is the ONLY way to let it recover... I'd like to minimize any more stress on it at the moment until I figure out what's really wrong.

jamilalshaw26,

As stated above I don't have access to "the outdoors" for these guys as I live in an apartment with no yard or even fire escape. I DO have a very bright and sunny living room where they can get plenty of direct sunlight if needed, but are currently placed in a location to get some "indirect" light, except when I needed to dry out the other one.

If it is that the roots are suffocating then continuing to soak the roots is not helpful, and I'm wondering if there are any strategies to help promote healthy roots that aren't going to shock/burn them.

Samantha

I never had any luck growing Pileas.

Maybe you could put it in the bright living room but a little away from the window or behind a plant that needs direct light. That way it can be "shaded" from the direct sun but still be able to dry out. That would count as indirect light. At least until you can get it into some better soil. :-)

Samantha, just soak that potting mix and put the plant - gradually - in a bright window. No direct light. Try to keep the plant alive through the winter months. Do not overwater. Just keep the mix barely moist...not wet.

There is no point to repotting now. The plant was set back by taking it out of the pot. It suffered root damage no matter how careful you tried to be. The plant needs to make new roots to survive. It will but it needs water.

If it were my plant I would not fertilize at all. I would put it in a bright window and give it time to recover. It should. I carried so many plants in hefty bags in the back of my car when I moved from NY to Florida. They all made it.

Some took time to recover but they did. I think you have a good shot unless the roots dried out completely.

Don't concern yourself about repotting nor potting mix at this time. The plants need to heal.

Jane

Hi, Samantha. Before you water, it's a good idea to check to see what moisture levels are like below the surface. Use a 1/4 or 5/16" wood dowel (any hardware of home improvement store, sharpened at both ends in a pencil sharpener. You can get 2, 3, 4, from 1 - 48" dowel. Make sure at least 1 is long enough to reach the bottom of your largest pot.

You can use a little science to help keep water retention at acceptable levels, more specifically you can use Newton's First Law of Motion, which states that a body in motion tends to stay in motion unless acted upon by an external force, and a body at rest tends to stay at rest unless acted upon by an external force. To apply the science, water your plant like you would if your soil allowed it w/o limitations to the plant. It doesn't, but pretend it does. When done watering, there will be a LOT of excess water left in the soil that has plenty of limiting potential. To negate that, pick the pot up by the rim, hold it over a sink, bathtub, lawn, ..... and move the plant smartly downward before sharply reversing the coarse to upward. When the direction changes from downward to upward, the excess water in the pot will continue moving downward and out the drain hole. You'll very quickly pick up the appropriate rhythm, and soon all excess water will have been removed. You can also tip your pots at about a 45* angle after watering and or add a drainage wick to a drain hole - preferably one through the bottom of the pot next to the sidewall.

Compare picture B to picture A, and note the wick in picture E.

I would do this the next time your tell (the wood dowel) says it's time to water. After flushing the soil, I'd add a recommended dose of appropriate fertilizer. 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers very closely mimic the ratio at which the plant actually USES the nutrients, and there are numerous reasons why mimicking the plants usage ratio is part of the best supplementation plan. Examples of 3:1:2 ratios are 12-4-8, 24-8-16, 9-3-6, ...... My preference is Foliage-Pro 9-3-6; this, for a number of reasons I wont list unless you're interested. If you don't understand the difference between NPK %s and NPK ratios, please ask for details. because it's an important part of your nutrient supplementation program.

While it's true you needn't worry about potting soils or repotting in the immediate, these chores should be part of your regular maintenance program and something you formulate a plan around. If you don't already have a plan in place and want to have one, ask, and I'll offer some guidance that takes the plants natural rhythms into consideration. In consideration of the plant's well being, it's better to work in harmony with the plant's natural rhythms than against them.

Let me know if you think there's anything I might be able to further help with or explain in more detail.

Good luck.

Al

Tapla, This wick trick has really helped me with some of my plant pots that don't drain well! Thank you so much for this valuable tip!!!

..... glad you found it useful. If you click the embedded link, it will take you to more Help Dealing with Excess Water Retention.

Al