Leaf Casting Pavers

12 years ago

From time to time members post for inexpensive pathway ideas. I figure I have about $45 in the seven leaf castings that make up my path.

The pavers are made of portland cement and sand with chicken wire for reinforcement. It takes me about 3 hours to make two. They measure [more or less depending on the size of the leaf] 3 ft by 2 1/2 ft. They do take two people to move but I think they make a great path!

I got started with cement after taking a hypertufa class last summer. While the pavers aren't hypertufa, I do make 'tufa pots.

Again, they are fairly inexpensive to make and make great dish gardens.

Susan

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Comments (28)

starryrider
12 years ago
I LOVE those pavers. What do you use to hold them in that shape while drying.
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
starryrider - I don't use a mold because the leaves are all different sizes. The secret is to get the cement mixture stiff enough to hold it's shape. If you use too much water then it will run everywhere.

Susan
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The paint used was probably iridescent or pearlized acrylic paint. Don't know what happened to the link I posted above. I use a damp pile of sand in a shallow box. Some people lay a clear piece of plastic (dry cleaner bag) over the sand. Place leaf with the back of the leaf facing up on the sand mound. Shape sand the way you want the final shape of the leaf. Remember you are working in reverse, so if you want the tip of the leaf to point down the damp sand at the tip of the leaf has to point up. When you place the mix on the back of the leaf start in the middle, down the center vein, and pat the mix to move it toward the edge. Depending on the size of the leaf you can put down one layer, lay down a layer of mesh tape that they use for dry wall, then add another layer of QuikWall.
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Hi all; I am very very new to this. I am wanting to make a mother mold since I can't get my hands on many Elephant Ear leaf's. I have read many of these forums and have decided to make it out of POP and then seal the casting mold with what someone had suggested like shellac.... then to use one sort of a release agent or another before using my concrete. Others had suggested a silicone mold with thinning the silicone first so that it picks up the veins better. What product should I thin the silicone with? Any suggestions on these questions would be sooooo appreciated. Thanks Judy
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Rainsend, my experience trying to do what you want involves lots of skinny leaves breaking off in your hands.... no matter how much fiber you use. Look at the picture below (and the 3 following it) to see what I finally did. It is not a leaf cast but it did turn out to be very pretty. The first photo shows the initial result and the next 3 show different views of the same paint job. I do not have a picture of the final product - the same paint job with a coating of exterior urethane that added darkness to the reddish color and a slight amber to the lighter areas. I did this by coating the leaf with as "even" a coat of white cement (quickwall in this case) as I could get. ooops, I forgot an important step. FIRST, lay out a sheet of heavy clean plastic on a big sturdy table. Wad up a small amount of paper and decide how much to put under the center section of the leaf to give it alittle depth but still be able to put the leaf fronds flat on the table. It doesn't take much padding here - and JUST under the center vein area. NOW pick up the leaf and put it somewhere else and spray it with spray adhesive. I had some 10 year old can of stencil adhesive but I think anything would work. Next, go back to your clean plastic on the table and carefully (extra hands help here) lay the leaf down on the wads of paper and arrange each frond so it is separate from the others and push down so the adhesive makes the leaf parts stick to the plastic on the table. Get this all looking like you want and gently press down every edge so concrete won't seep under the leaf. NOW you can go back to spreading white cement very carefully on every part of your leaf. Try not to get much smeared off the leaf because you are going to have to clean up every bit before you go on. When you are happy with your white cement coating (at least a quarter of an inch thick.... more on the big solid parts of the leaf), get all the edges like you want. Because you surely will have made a mess somewhere, now sprinkle clean sand over the plastic sheet and between every separate leaf part. DO NOT get much sand on top of the white cement). Let all this dry for awhile. I waited about an hour. Mix up a big pan of gray concrete and color it whatever color you want. I added a small amount of red powder (concrete colorant) someone gave me to try. I used a hypertufa recipe(on the dry side... not runny ) because this piece was going to get too heavy with just solid concrete. The rest is easy and quick. You dump the colored (could be gray - just not white) mix over the leaf and pat it gently around so it covers everything and mounds up to the shape and thickness you want. Because the middle of this leaf is so deep, you need to have about a 2 to 4 inch thickness. Because you are using a mix that doesn't run, you can use your hands to give it a basic overall shape you like. All that sand you poured on the plastic will give the front of your piece a nice sandy finish which you will brush off later. check out the photos and see if this would work for you Laura Here is a link that might be useful: try here
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Comments (20)
It would help if you actually posted a picture of the cracks being referred to. This would show the size of the leaves and the cracks. Assuming these are not huge leaves and that they do not have large curves (such as a deep bowl which puts more weight on the sides)... and assuming the cracks were in the center (since that is where the largest veins would be and likely the thinnest leaf part... I would suggest the following. Assuming the leaves did not crack entirely through the middles: 1) get some "bonder" you'll find in the concrete section looks like watered down glue. Brush/drip this into the cracked areas and mix up some cement (without sand if the crack is fine) that you can brush/push into and through the crack). Wipe up as needed (moist cloth) to prevent puddling and smooth surfaces flush. Let that set. THEN, to give it structural strength (if needed) consider flipping the leaf over, mix regular cement (as before). Brush bonder on the backside put some cement on and use some wire (for strength, hardware cloth stips or such), then more cement. If needed you can build a "base" onto it for a birdbath. If you aren't testing these pieces in any way (such as they are not heavy and the split likely to increase or they are not holding water for a bath or acting as a planter) then leave them with the patch only and an added layer on back - ALL ACROSS THE BACK. It is possible that the rain added water to your piece making the cement less strong. The added water could've also messed with the curing. Where the cracks occur (inside or outside) might show this. If water got underneath the leaf or cement by seeping it could happen. It is also possible that the cement was simply not thick enough over a large vein... I have yet to do this with a 4 foot gunnera I originally cast not realizing that the thickness under the largest vein was actually between 1/4 to 1/2 thick and at 150 pounds the weight and stress (load it for a show, unload it, over and over again) had "Jorge" (Gunnera, what else would I name it) split right down that vein but not until he had been ALL OVER the place... BTW, I was experimenting with him so never used wire... that'll teach me. In any case, hope that helps. It would still help to see photos of the cracks and where as well as how big they are for more precise instructions. Hope this is clear enough for now.
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katkin_gw
12 years ago
Hi Susan :o),
Those leaves look great! I wonder if it would work to dig a mold in the dirt so to speak. Make the size and shape in the dirt and then pour in the concrete and let set. Then you could remove them. Anyway what you did looks great and you have been a busy gal. :o)
Hugs,
Kathy
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
Hi Kathy! Good to see you are still here! You could dig a hole but I don't know how well the details of the leaf would come out. When I make a casting I cover an area the size of the leaf on a piece of plywood with a garbage bag. Then place the leaf face down on the bag. Spray the back of the leaf with Pam [to make getting the leaf out easier]. Then pack your cement mixture on the leaf using your hands. The cement should be about the texture of sticky oatmeal. You use the edge of the leaf as a guide to the shape of the paver. Needless to say, no two are alike! Here's a closeup of a paver so you can see the detail better -

Susan
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
In reference to Katkin's post - I don't use concrete which is a mixture of cement, gravel, and sand. I use Portland cement which is a component of concrete. Cement mixed with sand only gives you a very smooth surface that shows detail of your casting.

Susan
hester_2009
12 years ago
Soooo cool!
thanks for the pics and info - I now have these on my to do list
Hester
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
Hi Hester! Give it a try! It really is a lot of fun and you don't need to take a class [I paid $40 for the class I took] check out the Hypertufa Forum here or do a google and read up on it on line. And most of all don't be afraid to experiment with the "recipe".

My new motto is - "Who says you have to be a kid to enjoy mud pies????"

Susan
FLgardenmom
12 years ago
When do you put in the chicken wire? Sorry, I need the "for dummies" version. ;) Gorgeous, and I think that will be on my to-do list. I currently have scraps of lumber from the potting shed project as my paths in my garden. Works well, but not the best looking. So, I'm always looking for new ideas.
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
FLgardenmom - I put about 1 inch of the cement mixture on the leaf then put the chicken wire down. Then I top the chicken wire with another inch of the cement mixture.

Susan
annafl
12 years ago
Susan, those are spectacular! What great detail they show. I wish I had the patience to do stuff like that. Kudos to you.

Anna
thonotorose
12 years ago
Susan, Those are fabulous! If the points were on the same side they could turn a corner with pizazz.

Is it one bag of cement per pair? What does the front one measure... about? I just LOVE them.

So glad to see you here again.

Veronica
stuartwanda
12 years ago
I love the idea that no two are alike. I also dig the pots.
Nice to see you posting again!
corar4gw
12 years ago
Love hypertufa and working with cement, but I want to know what plant has such a BIG leaf? Nothing I have or have seen locally is near that size.
Cora
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks for all the positive reviews everyone!

Veronica - You can get at least 4 if not five pavers out of a bag of cement. The one you asked about is about 3 ft by 2 1/2 ft.

Cora - I used elephant ears [taro] to make them. You can find them along many waterways or swampy areas.

Susan
gardencpa
12 years ago
Awesome! I see a project coming my way. Thanks for the pics.

Melissa
katkin_gw
12 years ago
What if you did it the way I said and pressed the leaves in the top of the cement to get the impression? Do you think that might work? The leaves would wear away if you couldn't pull them off. I was thinking that way you could do them in place, instead of having to move them afterward.
carolb_w_fl_coastal_9b
12 years ago
So gorgeous! I've wanted to do this for years, but never seem to get my act together.

As for pressing leaves into wet concrete, I've seen this @ Disney World & Universal Studios, but the imprints are smaller, on slabs.
User
12 years ago
those are so cool, i've read about doing it that way, but never tried it. love the pots too, i like one of a kind stuff around the yard. great job!
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
Katkin - I don't know why it wouldn't work that way. Just press the back of the leaf into your poured cement. A little Pam on the leaf will make sure they won't stick. I admit moving the finished paver isn't for wimps! It takes both Dave and myself to move them.

Anyone interested in giving it a try e mail me and I will give more in depth directions. The first one is the hardest one after that it gets much easier. One more hint- I used 2 parts sand to 1 part cement and since I live in Florida, land of sand, I just found some nice white sugar sand, shoveled it into buckets, brought it home, screened it to remove debris, and used FREE sand to make my pavers!

Susan
countrynest
12 years ago
Hi,Susan !
You are so talented. They are beautiful. You have given many good information. I want to try out your method. Those will look great down my paths.
I miss you. Say hi to Dave. Every time I see my roses,I think of you. Specially St. David. LOL
Hugs,
Felix
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
Hello Felix! So good to hear from you! Dave says Hi too. Hope you and Sylvia are doing well. You can use smaller leaves to make smaller pavers for narrower paths. We have to plan a get-together with all the "old" crew!
(Marcia,Nicky,etc!) I would love to see you and them again.

Susan
countrynest
12 years ago
Susan,I would love to get together with you and the old gang. Talk to Marcia and you gals can let me know. We are all great. Sylvia is a breast cancer survivor ! Thank God !!
abzzybee
12 years ago
Bump for this thread! Awesome project idea for those cool days we are having...
corar4gw
12 years ago
Nova, I'm curious to know if you took your hypertufa class with Melanie Palmrose (Almost Ancient Pots). She lives only a few blocks from me and is the one I make the decorative tile for. cora
sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
12 years ago
Those are so cool. Too bad all my huge EE leaves all just froze. Goodness knows I have enough chicken wire around here lol. I am going to do this in the spring.

Has anyone tried this with Monstera leaves?
I would like to make some from my Monstera - they have holes in the leaves and look a little more complicated but I think it would make a kind of neat casting. I do have some monstera leaves in the greenhouse on my plants.
jupiterplants
12 years ago
Susan , Those are lovely ! So glad I checked in today. I have been wanting to do this, now I will :) thanks for the
pictures.

D'Ann
organicmomma89
12 years ago
oh soooooooo doing this!!! (i hope) thanks!!!!!
nova_gw
Original Author
12 years ago
corar - I took my 'tufa class at Seminole Springs Herb Farm. I can't remember the gentleman's name that taught the class.

sultry - Most any leaf will do. I make some smaller round pavers with diffrent leaves. So far I have used turkey oak, king's mantle,palmetto, just to name a few.

Susan

Leaf Casting Pavers

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