She doesn't mention it in the English version of the book, that I recall.

It does have this caveat at the bottom after the recipe:
" *The USDA considers inversion canning inferior to this boiling-water process: Follow the recipe above, leaving 1/4-inch headroom in jars. Wipe rim, set on lid, screw band finger-tight. Keep jars upright. Transfer to a canner and process 5 minutes. Lacking canner, set a round cooling rack or several inverted ring bands in the bottom of a stockpot. Fill pot with water. Bring to a boil. Using a jar-lifter, lower filled, sealed jars into the pot until submerged by 1 inch. Cover pot. When water returns to a boil, time 5 minutes. Lift out jars. Cool. Store up to 1 year. For details and high-altitude adjustments, see homefoodpreservation.com."

Here is a link to the article.

Here is a link that might be useful: A day in the country

thecurious,

"Can you process jam in the oven? I thought it had been determined that that was not a good thing?"

It all depends on your definition of "not a good thing"!
;-)

Discussions on this forum have suggested that, indeed, the practice of processing jam in a boiling-water bath as a must is unique to North America. British and European posters have often mentioned that it's not standard practice across the pond.

I don't think the jam is processed in the oven, however, but rather the jars are sterilized in the oven and then filled while hot, and inverted once the lids are on.

We tend to be more risk-averse in North America, and more litigious, so the USDA recommendations tend to have a sort of belt-and-suspenders extra margin of safety around them. You'll find plenty of people even here who don't follow the water bath for jams & jellies. They're pretty low-risk items to can, according to what I've read (I'm sure no expert but I have been reading on this a lot); they aren't susceptible to botulism (the big baddie) --- the likely problem is mold, which you can generally see, so you'll have an idea the jam is going bad.

I have processed jams myself this way a few times; it worked fine, and I didn't have any mold problems, and I'm still alive! ;-) Though it did seem that I had a slightly higher proportion of jars that didn't seal or came unsealed later. But I didn't do a very scientific count, and am only talking about a sample of a few bathces, so that's not statistically reliable!

Zabby

Zabby

Even the experts in North America concede that generally BWB is not necessary for jams and jellies. As Zabby said, it's the "belt and suspenders" approach, especially to avoid mold.

Inversion isn't necessary either. With a sterile jar and boiling hot preserves, you'll get a seal.

The boiling water bath for jams and jellies seems to be increasing its influence, at least south of the equator. I wish I'd saved the site for future reference, but I did see a New Zealand university program for home economists which recommended that method.

Here's a comment from the editor(s) of "Putting Food By" regarding the history of boiling water bath for preserves and their experience with the inversion method:

While a vacuum formed for us at PFB using the "inversion" method, the "inversion" vacuum was not so strong as the vacuum seal on the B-W treated jars. This fact is a reminder that the "finishing" Boiling-Water bath was welcomed by scientists in the South, to counteract heat and humidity of storage in the region; and soon it was adopted for dryer and more temperate climates. [I'd vouch for this: I've canned in Seattle, where seals formed easily, and in Tucson and North Carolina, where the seals took their own sweet time in forming. Give me that finishing waterbath every time-- LEB.] At the same time, food scientists determined that 5 minutes in a B-W bath was adequate (instead of a longer time advocated earlier) to strengthen the seal and drive air from the headroom, and sanitize the surfaces where micro-organisms could have lit. Presumably the reason for standing the jars on their heads is to hold the hot contents against the head and the sealing disk to equal the action of the 5 minute B-W Bath. A further help would be to deal with floating fruit as the medium gels; turned back upright, the contents would shake down by themselves. The same results can be got by giving the jars a twirl several times after they're set aside to cool upright after their bath." (Note: in filing and capping the jars, we at PFB must have left the bands a bit loose. After we inverted it, one jar spurted hot, hot jelly over a hand in a mean scald. This indirect hazard can also make "inversion" less than foolproof.) [Since the writers of PFB know how to tighten a band properly, if bands have to be applied that tight, deformation of the gum is almost certain unless the lids were applied without a sterilization process which softens the gum. E.D.] "PFB is not gainsaying General Foods just to be tiresome; we, too, used to advocate the quick "inversion" with almost non-existent headroom -(though never setting the jars upside-down, regarding this practice as harking back too far to old-time ways with preserving) - so we reverse our own recommendations, too.

Postscript: extension food scientists whose work we admire have expressed their worries over the "inversion" technique used at high altitudes and they are against it.

Post-Postscript: General Foods shows fairness in their news release insaying they will continue to mention B-W Bath method as an alternative on all their printed materials." [Conclusion: I feel it gives a false security to the user of the "inversion" method. Neophytes especially are at risk with this method for they do not have the experience to make valid food judgements. It is far better then, to master the basic proven techniques that work under all circumstances. Safe, reliable canning is more of a procedure than just a recipe - ED]"

Carol

Ladies- Below is the link.

http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/magazine/chi-0609100321sep10,1,7414711.column

It will only be good for a couple of days, the tribune restricts its access after 7 days. I didnt get the impression that they were inverting the glasses. It seems to only refer to putting jelly glasses on an oven pan and filling them and then putting them in the oven.

Am I reading it incorrectly?

Here is a link that might be useful: tribune mes confitures article

thecurious,

Huh --- I read it the same way you do, that they're putting FILLED jars into the oven at 60 degrees celsius, or 140 F.

But I note they seem to be discussing not the Apricot Vanilla Jam for which a recipe is given at the end (the recipe calls for sterilizing the jars in a BWB and then inverting after filling, with the USDA post-fill BWB as a footnote), but some kind of cherries in brine with star anise (which sounds, frankly, not all that appealing to me, but I'm a bit of a traditionalist with fruit).

Anyone ever hear of some French specialty involving baked fruit pickles????

Zabby

I've heard of pickled cherries before but never baked in the oven. It's exasperating that just enough detail was given in the article to make you wonder with no possibility of clarification. (But then I wasn't wild about the twee tone of the whole article.)

I love cherries, but haven't previously been inspired to pickle them. I was surprised to find this recipe from Perth, Australia that sounds very similar to Ferber's and has possibilities:

Pickled Cherries

Chef: Eoin Cameron (Eoin Cameron is breakfast presenter on 720 ABC Perth and foodie.)

"A brilliant addition to your Christmas menu.

You need:
500g cherries, stems intact.
1 cup cider vinegar
Zest of 1 lemon
2 star anise
1 cinnamon quill
6 whole cloves
Half a teaspoon vanilla essence
Half a cup of water.
3 tablespoons of dark brown sugar

Method:
Bung everything but the cherries in a saucepan, and bring to the boil, simmer gently for about 10 minutes.

While the mixture is simmering, prick each cherry three or four times with a sharp wooden skewer.

Add the cherries to the simmering liquid and remove from heat. Allow to cool.

Put the cherries and liquid in a jar and allow to stand at room temperature overnight. Store in the fridge until use. (They won't be in the fridge very long)."

However, I did run across this "pickle" (which is really a jam) and it sounded darned appealing:

Pickled cherries with chocolate

Ingredients
1 kg sweet cherries or morellos
1 pack (330 g) Dansukker Jam Sugar 1+3
1 tbsp lemon juice
75 g grated dark chocolate
2 tbsp cognac (optional)

Wash and destone the cherries. Blend or chop the cherries. Mix the cherry mixture, jam sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan and boil for 4 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and skim. Stir in the chocolate and cognac. Pour into scalded jars and seal tightly. Store in a cool place.

Note: Recipe in the archives of the Dansukker (Danish Sugar) Company.

How can you argue with cherries, chocolate and cognac? I think this is one worth adapting next season.

Carol

Here is a link that might be useful: Pickled Cherries from Perth

I received my new to me used copy of Helen Witty's Good Stuff cookbook yesterday. I read this recipe just last night.

Tart-Pickled Cherries in the French Style
1 pound ripe but firm Bing, Lambert, or other sweet cherries (sour cherries may also be used)
5 or 6 sprigs of fresh tarragon, each at least 4 inches long
2 cups high quality white wine vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons fine pickling or other pure salt (no additive)
Makes 1 quart

1. Sort the cherries, discarding any with soft spots or blemishes. Clip the stems to 1/2 inch. Roll the cherries in a towel to remove all possible moisture.
2. Rinse the tarragon sprigs and pat them dry. Drop them into a sterlized dry 1 quart canning jar. Add the cherries, which will not quite fill the jar.
3. Stir together the vinegar, sugar and salt in a stainless steel or other non-reactive saucepan. Heat to simmering, stitting until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Remove from heat and cool completely. (Does it seem to you that should have been the first step?)
4. Pour the cooled liquid over the cherries, being sure to cover them completely. Remove any air bubbles by running a long thin knife blade or cooking chopstick around the inside walls of the jar. Add more liquid if necessary, leaving a 1/2 inch headspace. Seal the jar with a sterlized new two piece canning lid according the manufacturer's directions. Store the cherries in a cool cupboard for at least a week (even longer is better) before serving them. They will keep for a year or more.

I'm not reading that as the cherries being processed so if it were me, I'd the cupboard I'd use is the fridge.

Since the link will disappear, I'm posting the article content. It would frustrating to come along in a few days and not know what all the fuss was about. Carol, I have to agree with you about the twee tone. I couldn't put my finger on what was bothering me, but you summed it up nicely.

Leah Eskin
A day in the country
Four French friends make jam and mischief

Published September 10, 2006

Christine Ferber calls Guy Untereiner her best friend. So when she mentions another best friend, Guy is heartbroken. Decu! Christine runs a patisserie in the unpronounceable French town of Niedermorschwihr. But today, in the Michigan sunlight, her new best friend is Herb Teichman.

Herb grows fruit so sweet that Christine is moved to treasure these jewels not merely for a morning but forever-or as ever as fruit can get, which is to say as jam. "Elle est la fee de la confiture!" admires Guy. She is the fairy queen of jam. Indeed, her jam is so beautifully colored and richly flavored and endearingly packaged that it is famous far beyond Alsace. "They adore her in Japan!" swoons Guy.

Christine caresses an apricot. "The colors do me good," she confides. "I could make more jam, I could make more money. But that is not what I want. I want a beautiful life." A life packed with good flavors and good friends like chef Jean Joho (of Everest and Brasserie Jo and Eiffel Tower fame), who has invited her and Guy and pastry chef Jacquy Pfeiffer for a day in the country.

Christine strolls into the orchard with Herb. "Pas de betises!" teases Guy. No messing around! Herb is married. Has been for 52 years. But what is a walk among the peach trees if not an opportunity for juicy innuendo?

Back in Joho's breezy Michigan kitchen, Christine sorts the cherries one by one, sliding the beauties into little faceted jars. She instructs Joho to prepare a brine from Alsatian honey vinegar and peppercorns and star anise. Guy gazes at the heap of glorious fruit. "Mais c'est chic!" he cries. Guy, who has a soft spot for Norman Rockwell and garden gnomes, designs table linens that are one part sentimental French country, one part water-resistant practicality. Guy knows chic.

Joho fills the jars with the brine and twists on the tops, sealing in summer. "Sixty degrees," Christine commands. Jacquy flips open his phone and does the math: [60 x (9/5)] + 32 = 140 degrees. Celsius to Fahrenheit is nothing; he runs Chicago's French Pastry School.

Joho slides the jars into the oven. Christine is already melting apricots into jam. "When I have things put up I feel rich, like a squirrel," Herb said, back in the orchard. The oven is packed with bounty enough to make the friends feel rich as squirrels. And clever as fairies.

APRICOT AND VANILLA JAM

Makes three to four 1-cup jars
2 1/2 pounds apricots
3 3/4 cups sugar
1 cup water
2 vanilla beans, split in half
Juice of 1 small lemon

1. Pick: Only perfect and perfectly ripe apricots will do.
2. Array: Assemble your tools: Copper jam pan or other medium-sized heavy low stockpot, canner or large stock pot, ceramic bowl, skimmer, wooden spoon, ladle, sieve, jar-lifter, tongs, candy thermometer, timer, parchment paper, clean dish towel, 4 1-cup Mason jars plus new lids, bands and labels.
3. Macerate: Rinse apricots in cold water. Cut them in half; discard pits. Mix apricots, sugar, water, vanilla beans and lemon juice in the bowl. Cover with parchment paper, pressing gently so paper touches fruit. Refrigerate 1 hour.
4. Simmer: Scrape apricot mixture into the jam pan. Bring to a simmer. Pour back into bowl. Press on parchment paper and refrigerate overnight.
5. Sterilize: Next day, wash jars, bands and lids. Set aside bands. Put lids in a small saucepan. Simmer 5 minutes. Let lids sit in hot water. Set jars in a stockpot. Fill pot with water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes. Let jars sit in hot water.
6. Boil: Set the sieve over the jam pan. Pour apricot mixture through the sieve. Remove and discard apricot skins; set aside apricot halves. Bring accumulated juices to a boil. Skim thoroughly and continue cooking on high heat until syrup reaches 220 degrees on the candy thermometer. Add the reserved apricot halves. Bring to a boil again and cook 5 minutes. Continue to skim carefully and stir gently. Remove the vanilla beans and cut into 2-inch lengths.
7. Fill: Use jar-lifter to grab 1 jar in its hot water bath. Tilt to empty, carefully. Ladle hot jam into hot jar, right up to the top. Add a length of vanilla bean. Wipe top edge with a clean damp cloth. Use tongs to set 1 hot lid on top. Screw on band. Turn jar upside down to seal and cool.* Fill the rest of jars in the same way, one at a time.
8. Store: When cool, check that the lids are concave, indicating a good seal. Label and store on a cool, dark shelf up to 1 year.

-Adapted from "Mes Confitures" by Christine Ferber

*The USDA considers inversion canning inferior to this boiling-water process: Follow the recipe above, leaving 1/4-inch headroom in jars. Wipe rim, set on lid, screw band finger-tight. Keep jars upright. Transfer to a canner and process 5 minutes. Lacking canner, set a round cooling rack or several inverted ring bands in the bottom of a stockpot. Fill pot with water. Bring to a boil. Using a jar-lifter, lower filled, sealed jars into the pot until submerged by 1 inch. Cover pot. When water returns to a boil, time 5 minutes. Lift out jars. Cool. Store up to 1 year. For details and high-altitude adjustments, see homefoodpreservation.com.

LeahREskin@aol.com

Btw, Her comment that she could make more money but she wants a beautiful life is just so French - not that there is anything wrong with that.

I have a beautiful book, ART OF PRESERVING by Jan Berry. I believe it is Australian. In it she says that jars should be sterilized before use and says that a good way to do that is in the dishwasher. She says the jars can also be sterilized by washing and then placing upright on a baking tray in a cold oven, turn heat on to 250 degrees, and leave for 30 minutes.
On sealing jars, she says to cover the jars while hot (unless recipe says otherwise) by placing a small round of waxed or parchment paper on top, followed by a tight fitting lid. "Cellophane jar covers can be used and are available at supermarkets." The recipes do not call for water bath. Some recipes call for "Sealing" after the product has cooled.
The pictures in this book are gorgeous. I have used some of the recipes but bwb rather than her directions.

Melly, I have that book. I love Helen Witty's recipes. A lot I do end up updating, though I don't really think leaving the cherries in the cupboard is a problem. You have an acid fruit and 100% vinegar.

However, I'll bet they'd retain a firmer texture in the fridge.

Thanks, missem, for the Heads-Up on "Art of Preserving." I've seen a lot of references in British and Australian books to those little waxed disks.

Carol

Carol