Lots of good comments & advice already given (notably by Fusion, Digdirt & Plantatus) to which I concur. I'll just try to add my 2 c's on a few points already discussed. "Sterilized compost is nothing like seed starting mix. As explained at least a couple of times above seed starting mix is composed of peat from peat bogs. The amount varies but is usually 60-80%. To that either perlite or vermiculite and a little lime is added. Then some sort of nutrient supplement is added to some, but not all, of the mixes." A commercial mix has been sold here whose main component is shredded bark; I've used it for several years, and am happy with the results. It would offer a good alternative for those who consider the use of peat to be the destruction of a non-renewable resource. "I still say I don't understand how some of the experts can jive their zeal against uber-big businesses having their fingers in seed companies, promote heirlooms and sustainability, talk about preparedness and self-sufficiency in the "just-in-case-it-all-comes-crashing-down" world and at the same time proclaim that nothing other than store-bought seed starting mix will work. At all. Ever." As I've read through this thread, that wasn't what I heard. What has been said is that you should start with a sterile medium... and provided that you sterilize a fertile soil or mix, the results can even be better than the sterile (but nutritionally weak) seed starting mixes sold commercially. Really, all of the other discussions - indoor versus outdoor, etc. - take a back seat to that issue. Fusion's experience with his own mix was a great example of what can be accomplished, and leaves the door open for a great deal of experimentation. Those who grow their crops in subsistence levels - and rely on them for sustenance - can't afford the chance of a complete loss before the plants even get in the ground. You try to minimize the risk to the greatest degree possible... and at present, the sterile mixes sold commercially are a very reliable way to do so. If those were not available, however, I think the people in question (self among them) would find alternatives - some of which have already been mentioned. My methods (in my climate) would likely differ from those in warmer zones. And if "it-all-comes-crashing-down", there would not only be no starter mix, but no power for lights or bottom heat. At that point, IMO, seed starting becomes something of a non-issue... I would be less concerned with forcing hot-weather plants (of relatively low nutritional value) to grow in my climate, and more concerned with growing nutrient-dense grains & root crops that don't require coddling to produce. "This is something I do [sterilizing containers], even though I always kind of wonder what the point is when I don't bother to sterilize the seed starting mixture. But it just seems to make good sense." Even when you start with sterile soil & containers, contamination can (and often does) occur through airborne spores; fans & dusty or damp locations can increase the chances of initial infection. When this occurs, there would likely only be a few plants affected, unless the container were enclosed (I recommend against those "mini-greenhouse" flats for that reason, they are fungus breeding grounds). But if you were to then start the next year with some containers already infected, it would be giving the pathogens a chance to develop & spread more quickly, and the losses would greater. I would add that the sterility of soil & container can be rendered moot, if the water used to dampen them - and the fingers & tools used during planting - are not also sterile. I use rubber gloves when planting, and RO filtered water or boiled rain water for seed starting. If I add an organic fertilizer to the water (which increases germination in old seed) I boil it before use. Once the plants are growing (and have their first true leaf) the sterility of water is probably less important. " I run a fan over my seedlings, and I spray with peroxide and water if I suspect any funny business, and I sprinkle with cinnamon, etc. and it seems to work. I grow very healthy seedlings that go on to be very healthy plants." I like the peroxide idea. It might be even more effective if it were used preventively (before symptoms occur) rather than correctively... it would be interesting to test that idea, and determine the dosage & periodicity that are most effective. It's worth mentioning, though, that peroxide also does not fit into a self-sustained philosophy. There might be other solutions (perhaps herbal teas) that would offer an alternative. For what its worth, I think Madhacktress & the original poster are on the right track philosophically... the vast majority of gardeners do not use sustainable methods for seed starting. If the economy were to go sour, there could be increased interest in this topic.

Just about any media will do: slightly moist is important. If it's too wet, seeds go mouldy or drown and smother. If it's too dry, they wizen up and die of lack of water. Slightly moist will feel slightly cool in your open hand, but will not drip when squeezed hard. After that, any container will do, a small jar with a lid and about half full so there is air, a plastic baggie, again half full for air, a plastic tub with a lid...anything at all. Once every few weeks, check that it's still slightly damp and open the top for fresh air for a minute or two. I've used damp sand, damp peat moss, damp soil, damp compost and used tea bags. All are good, just be sure they are only slightly damp and check on the seeds from time to time. Assuming it is a species where the package of seed calls for stratification in cold conditions, then that is what they need. If you name the species I can look it up for you and post the recommendations for stratification. I have only grown the species around here myself, but would be happy to look up the requirements for something else for you. I have a copy of the seeds of woody plants manual.

In my experience tubers need: 1. Water 2. Light inside. When they go outside, the need soil. In other words, you could start them in wet newspapers and they'd likely eye up and sprout. Soil only comes into it when they sprout roots, and when you're starting tubers you're not really going after roots, you want sprouts. The more roots they grow indoors, the more work it is to transplant safely. I'd use the loosest soil you can find, and keep the tubers shallow in the mix. I started mine in a 50-50 mix of Miracle Grow Seed Starter and peat. Worked fine, but I doubt the soil had anything to do with anything. Cheers, Russ

You have pretty much answered your question already. Soilless seed starting mixes are very light and usually are made of things like coconut husks, and other inert items, perlite, vermiculite, worm castings, etc. Potting and seedling soils can contain regular soils. But keep in mind, for the most reliable starting and growing they should be sterile, so there are no pathogens introduced that would compete with the young, growing plants. If your in the US, one of the best seed starting mediums is the Natural Beginnings sold by Gardens Alive. I have had very good luck with it, and even mix it with a seed starting mix I get from a company in VT, called Gardeners Supply. Both have no real soil in them, and are very light and quite dry when shipped. I have to add a LOT of water to them before filling my pots with the mixture. After all of my seedlings are at a stage when the plants get put into the garden, they simply get planted directly in garden soil. If your doing things in containers, get a good soil mix for container growing. Some of my herbs need no care at all, like garlic chive, winter chive, and even dill. These produce seeds and they drop near the existing plants. If the plants die in winter, the seeds usually survive and sprout up again for the next summer. Potting mixes are for potting plants.. Seed starting mixes are for, just that, starting seeds. Avoid those peat pots, they just don't work very well.