Donas - I think that because nearly all of the experienced gardeners shy from most commercial soils based on fine particulates is a good indication that they recognize them as inherently flawed. Some growers feel they are salvable, and others don't feel they're amendable in the sense that you can effectively add a little of this and a little of that and come up with a soil that performs as well as one would if you recombined the ingredients on hand in a different ratio. For example, many growers amend soils like Miracle-Gro with pine bark and perlite to help them drain better and hold more air, two characteristics usually less than ideal in most prepared soils. If you envision a jar of fine particles, like sand, that represents a soil like Miracle-Gro, in your minds eye you can see that adding ;large particles like perlite or pine bark in small fractions isn't going to improve aeration OR drainage. The small particles simply surround the large particles and continue to work against what you're trying to accomplish ....... until, the larger particles become a very large fraction of the whole. Dori uses a bark-based soil because when you START with large particles, the drainage/aeration so conducive to good root health is already there. Many others see the same advantage and use soils based on large particulates instead of fine particulates like peat, compost, coir, sand, topsoil .... The soils with reduced water retention, better drainage, and more aeration allow you to water properly, so you can flush the accumulating salts from the soil at will without worrying about root rot, and they offer the grower, especially the growers that aren't as experienced, a much wider margin for error - they're simply easier to grow in and make it easier to consistently bring along healthy plants. I'll leave a link to a discussion about soils for containers that's been active since '05. There is a lot of information in it. Feel free to join the discussion if you wish. You'll get a good perspective of how a large group of growers approaches the container soil issue. In the end, you could still use up your MG soil in combination with some other ingredients (pine bark/perlite/garden lime). You'll end up with something much easier to grow in, more conducive to root health, and much less expensive than purchasing a commercially prepared soil. You can even watch a video (compliments of Josh) that shows how easy it is to make. Also - see link below. There's a LOT more info there. Understanding the water:air relationship in container soils is probably the largest step forward an aspiring container gardener can make at any one time. Best luck! Al Here is a link that might be useful: More info

Jeepers - you guys that live in Canada! ;o) It's hard to say because you probably don't have the same brands we have in the States. Here, we would just go to a grain elevator for a generic 50 lb bag, or find a large plant store that has an all-year display of Espoma products, but unless there's another member from Canada who can offer some more specific help, ...... I was wondering if you'd be back to ask about the nutritional aspects. I mused that if you came back, you were pretty committed to learning more about plants, and if you didn't, you either thought I was full of beans or didn't really care all that much. I'm glad you came back. ;o) Good luck. Let me know if you think I can help further. Al

I just asked my former greenhouse employer this question, taking some examples along to demonstrate, and she explained that plants in smaller pots-their roots will actually dry out before roots in the larger pots will (whether I realize it or not)and when the roots begin to dry like that, the plant will stop growing. Whereas, the larger potted plant has not dried out, and continues to grow. Apparantly, it takes some time for the smaller plant to begin growing again, after it has had this "dry spell"?? Okay, now I make sure my plants are watered when they need it, but apparantly, it must begin to dry out all around the edges of that pot, just as terra cotta pots dry out very quickly. This would make sense to me. I mean, the plants look perfectly fine, but there is some drying going on inside the pot, around the edges. Can anyone elaborate on this?? I would think this knowledge would be vital to anyone growing plants, to know exactly what size pots to use for what plants. However, you see the exact same size plant growing in all different size pots for sale in nurseries, and apparantly will reach different size growth based upon their conditions when being transplanted. I mean, if you choose to put all seedlings directly into cell packs, from my observation, the plants will grow tall, upright, and rather skinny. I have grown cell plants forYEARS, and used them in all my gardening needs, and they have been fine. This year, I started taking some of those cells plants, transplanting them again into 4 inch pots once they got so big, and the leaves were touching. BUT, what I am examining is, putting them into the cell packs rather than the larger pots causes an entirely different kind of growth. Wouldnt this difference in growth cause the plant to continue growing "differently"??? I mean, a tall skinny transplant is not getting as filled out as the transplants in larger pots; wouldnt this cause an irreversable difference in the two plants?? I know that plant get pinched to cause them to get busy. I pinch the center stems at a certain height. But on the plants in the larger pots, this doesnt even seem necessary, they appear to bush out on their own. I am also curious what effect using a way too big of a pot will do for a seedling. I mean, will it just continue to grow and grow uninterrupted? I would think too large of a pot compared to a tiny seedling would have major moisture fluctuations in the pot. But I am no expert, that is why I am here asking you! I would like to understand this from a scientific perspective, like how the roots function in this. I think it is valuable information. Thank you!

I hope someone with more knowledge responds soon. I have only grown Clivia for a little over a year. I use close to that mix, except no sand, and I add perilite. So mine is potting soil, orchid mix ( bark, charcoal), and perilite. This makes it fast draining and not withhold a lot of water. HTH -TEISA