The past couple years, I've bought that Scott's Seed-starting mix, moistened it, placed in plastic drinking cups, sprinkled on seeds, sprinkled on a thin layer of dry mix, covered with saran wrap, and placed under my HD 500W worklights. This year I did this using some yogurt cups that had clear lids and started tomatoes and a tomatillo in that setup. I also started scarlet runner beans & hyacinth bean vine in re-used 6-packs covered with saran wrap, and cypress vine in one of those clear plastic salad bar containers. Nearly all of the varieties had sprouts within about 1.5 weeks (from seed that was new - 3 years old). Once the first sprouts were up, I took the cover or wrap off and bottom watered only. Once the veggies hit the 1st set of leaves, I transferred plants to 16 oz solo cups and pure moistened Promix, and eventually transplanted to 1 gallons a couple weeks before planting out. The others remained in their original starting containers and were planted out from that. The lights were on 16 hours/day and I have one of those small fans that I use to gently blow across the area. The downside to that particular seed starting mix is that it is heavy peat-based, but because I continually bottom watered, I tried to keep it generally damp on the way to dry (but never completely "wet"). One of my sisters gave me one of those clay basil balls and just before Memorial Day, I basically stuck that on top of a 8" pot of Promix, watered it, and put it outside. It sprouted once the temperatures shot up: I am going to be starting some more basil (Genovese and Purple) probably this upcoming week but will have the starting containers outside in the sun.

I use a little fan that I clip onto the shelf. I don't have it blow directly on the seedlings, but just enough to keep that air moving. Helps with making them stronger and also with damping off. Are you keeping the seedlings close to the lights? I always keep them about an inch or so away, using 40 watt fluorescent shop bulbs. I have never started flowers indoors but this is what I use for my veggies and works great. I don't use heating mats either. With the warm weather here, I've been taking my plants out periodically to harden them off. Hopefully the warmth continues and we can plant a bit early. Good luck.

My first seed starting attempts were with Jiffy Mix and later, with peat pots. I never had good results AT ALL. (the peat pots dry out in no time and before you know it your seedlings are dead) For a long time I used just a high quality potting mix, and it worked pretty well. But a couple of years ago I decided to experiment with Gardeners Supply Seed Starting mix. I like it very much and I do believe I have a higher rate of germination with it. I also keep a bag of vermiculite on hand for dusting over fine seeds. It holds in the moisture and the seedlings can come up through it very easily. I really think that for most beginners, it's more about technique than it is about the medium. It certainly was for me. Read the seed packet carefully. If it says the seeds need light, be sure they have it This may mean you just press the seeds into the soil and don't cover. If it says dark, put the pots in the dark, keeping close watch so you move them into light as soon as they begin to come up. Also, pay attention to the germination temperatures that are stated. They are very important. It's always a good idea to google the plant you are growing and learn all you can before you begin. And finally, moisture control is crucial. Moisten your medium well before you put it in pots. Sow seeds and give just enough water to settle them. Let them drain a few minutes and then put them in an airtight location. I use Rubbermaid clear storage crates for a whole flat. If you are only starting a pot or two, you can put them in a ziplock bag. This will keep the atmosphere moist and help the plants come up more quickly and more uniformly.

Sounds like you have pot tubers from Holland, sold by general catalog plant companies and big box stores ... A confusing mess with what looks like a stalk with lots of tubers (often broken) hanging off it? Sound familiar? The great thing about these things is that there are normally many potential eyes ready to sprout up if the main sprouts are broken off. The not-so-great thing about holland' pot tubers is that they are very difficult for the new grower to divide or take cuttings from, as the clump is often a mess. It might be advisable to rein back on your learning curve, and save cuttings for next year's project. But if your spirit moves you to be adventuresome, go for it! Just be prepared for failures while learning... All part of the learning curve. "Get a slice of the tuber." Not sure why you'd want to do that. If you cut a sprout out of the tuber, you have effectively ended the sprouting capability in that area. If you cut under a leaf set and above the tuber by an eighth of an inch, three or four new sprouts will develop around the sprout stub within the week. You can pot up the 2-5 inch cutting, water well and cover tightly with a Baggie... The sprout should root well in a couple weeks and begin top growth.