The best shrubs to turn into 'trees'
teka2rjleffel
13 years ago
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bigpaulie1972
13 years agoRobin
13 years agoRelated Discussions
What are the best chemical to kill tree and shrub roots
Comments (19)I posted a request in May 2011 for the pear root problems, see above. I did not receive any answer. Then I read other websites and learned to kill the rooting system successfully. Now I receive an email from Debee Deeks for same problems. So I decided to re-visit this web to post a follow-up to share my story. As I said, the stump of the pear tree was removed. I had to deal with the strong rooting system producing twigs on the surrounding ground everywhere. The more I cut, the worse the new twigs. The chemical I used was Roundup concentrate plus. The detail is "Kill the roots guaranteed. Roundup weed & grass killer. Concentrate plus. Net 32 fluid oz. made by Mansanto Co, Missouri, 2009". I bought this from Home Depot or Lowes or OSH, (dont remember detail, probably Home Depot). The cost is about 10-30 US dollars (dont remember detail). Again it should be Concentrate plus. Also need to buy a pair of gloves that are resistant to chemicals (I bought a pair of black rubber gloves long enough up to my upper forearms). The face mask is optional if wind is not strong. Also needs a clean rag or sponge (I used a small piece of cloth rag). Also needs a porcelain bowl. Weather and timing: midday, like noon when sun is shining, is the best and when the twig are actively growing. The twig foliage should be dry without being watered or irrigated, (otherwise the chemical is diluted by water). The height of the twigs is best at 1 2 feet. Make sure not to spill any chemical onto the vegetable or other surrounding useful plants. If necessary, may need to separate by a cupboard. Chemical is very strong. Protect yourself. From my experience, the killing will be successful, but dont injure yourselves. Ready? Now wear appropriate garment, mask and gloves. I pour the Roundup chemical into a bowl (to facilitate the handling). Wet / soak the rag in the bowel with chemical. Then rub the rag against the leaves (both sides of leaves) and twigs (all around the twigs) until they are totally wet, from the leaves all the way to ground (dont let rag touch the earth, because the chemical is immediately inactivated by soil). Make sure do this to all the twigs. In a few hours, you will see the change. Usually by 2 weeks, all leaves and twigs die. If there is residual living twigs or leaves, may apply more chemical in 1 -2 weeks to those surviving twigs. And may apply more even some time later until they are totally die, if needed. Even with that, sometimes you may still see one to two twigs coming up the next spring. Use the chemical again. For some superficial roots, you may just dig it out as much as you can. The principle of the chemical is: the chemical is absorbed by the leaves and twigs, then transported by the stems / twigs to the root to kill the root. So for those green twigs, dont cut but use the chemical first. Then later when they are dead, may dig it out if necessary, but many times not necessary to dig. I applied chemical once, then add a bit one week later, then 4 weeks later for the residuals. This spring I saw only one twig and I physically removed it. No more until now. All the underground roots will die out due to the chemicals and due to lack of sun energy (because no leaves now to take in sunshine). It is worth trying above. And post your experience later for other readers benefit. Yangming Cao...See MoreBest shrub/tree for screen/hedge
Comments (33)That is Hydrangea paniculata 'Quickfire', and it blooms from about the first week of July until a hard freeze in the fall, changing from that bright white to a deep rosy pink. There's a fall photo of it in the thread I linked above. I'd plant a couple of small to medium sized shrubs (there's a Hydrangea 'Little Quickfire' that might well work for that) in front of the hawthorn to fill in below the tree's branches and the break up the straight line. In planning how close to plant, I look at the ultimate width of the plant and divide by two. So with your Diablo ninebark, leave 5-6 feet on each side (12/2=6). I like to plant some a bit further forward and some a bit further back so that visually they overlap more even though there's still enough space between them....See Morewhat is this tree/shrub? it turns red in the fall
Comments (4)the green one can be considered invasive in some areas ... with the birds spreading the seed EVERYWHERE ... there doesnt appear to be anything compact about the plant in your pic ... it might just be the straight species.. not everything has a cultivar name.. the part in quotes ... you can tell how aggressive a seeder it is.. in fall.. when the fire bush turns brilliant red.. and you notice them along the edges of all the farm fields in the entire county ... and yet they are still sold at the nurseries... crikey ... ken...See MoreBest shrub and tree nurseries in Providence RI area?
Comments (3)Steve, I have bought some nice items from the Farmer's Daughter in Kingston (Rte. 138 just off Rte. 1) and also from Forest Hills Nursery in Cranston, right behind Spain restaurant on Reservoir Avenue. I've bought camellias, crape myrtle, Southern (evergreen) magnolia (Bracken's Brown Beauty), camellias and more. It can, of course, depend on when you go as the stock changes quite a bit. I have also always seen a nice selection of hardy cacti and succulents at Farmer's Daughter. Both places have friendly and helpful staff. They both have display gardens, although I think Farmers' Daughter has the better one. Good luck with your plant hunting!...See Moreizharhaq
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Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)