Hope you don't mind if I just C&P an answer from one of the previous discussions here on siphoning and its causes. NCHFP has a good table on the causes of siphoning/loss of liquid that may help (Carol linked that). One of the main causes is skipping the 10 min wait between removing the weight and removing the lid. Did you do that? You also want to wait several more min after removing the lid before removing the jars. Adjusting the heat source too much is also a common cause. Better to let it run a little high than to adjust too much trying to keep it pegged. Also check out the NCHFP How-To Use a Pressure Canner guide for step-by step instructions. Canner manuals are usually outdated on this info. Dave PS: NCHFP is also a better source of recipes as all there are tested and approved. Some the recipes at the source you used are not.

I have an old electric stove and it pulses and heats unevenly, even under the best of cooking conditions. That might explain some of your issues with the pressure canner. I got a one burner butane stove that I use on my countertop sometimes for canning. I got it at a restaurant supply store. Works like a charm but you have to buy the fairly pricey little gas canisters to use with it so wouldn't work if you do a LOT of pressure canning. I posted on here once about various stove options and canning and also on the Harvest Forum. I don't have the option of getting gas at my house. I did a lot of reading and thinking on it and just decided to get a new electric coil stove, although a flat top probably would have done OK, many models are appropriate for canning. I decided the benefits of induction just weren't worth the price, for me. I will say this, if you get an electric coil stove, you still are probably going to have to replace the coils and connections from time to time, they corrode and impair the performance of the burners. I have done that on my stove twice so far, due to the heavy duty use I put it to. Don't know if the glass tops last longer or not.

I am not an expert. I do not have a mulit-cooker. High pressure for cooking is 12 psi. A stove-top one can get to 15 psi. All that means is that an electric device takes longer to cook the food but it's measured in minutes. Not a deal breaker but be aware that using recipes from other sources will mean adding time. I have not come across an electric PC that reaches 15 psi. You need to fill the inner pot at least 1/5 full to use it. It may not be able to PC small amounts. I don't know if the max and min or marked on the pot, though. Stews will need 5-6 cups of liquid to prevent burning. Looks like you you 19 cups of volume available for foods that don't expand while cooking. 14 cups for those that do. From the manual: Be aware that certain foods,such as applesauce,cranberries,pearl barley, oatmeal or other cereals, split peas, noodles, macaroni, rhubarb, or spaghetti can foam, froth, sputter, and clog the pressure release device (steam vent). These foods should not be cooked in a pressure cooker. It says that you can use this to pressure can. I would not advise this since elevation plays a key role and you don't know how it would affect the amount of pressure you can achieve. I can't imagine that it holds 4 qt jars, which is the starting point for USDA recommendations. I use non-stick for certain things. I follow the guidelines and really don't worry about it. Each person needs to make that decision for themselves. I don't worry about aluminum, either, but then I eat out and use induction so I don't have the option at home.

That's the amazing thing about milk paint -- it's gorgeous in all lighting. Radiant even. The color shifts a bit, as with all paint, but it's always pretty. My LR is painted in pumpkin & sometimes it's coppery, sometime tomato soup red depending on the season & sunlight. At night it's just a fabulous warm burnt orange under the incandescents. Same thing with my BR painted w/ a mix of oyster white & a touch of sea green. So what colors did you purchase? How exciting! Your home is so beautiful. Will be fun to follow your projects.