Hi, vgkg. I wouldn't think that disease would be limited to the north. I believe that fusarium wilt was first identified in South Carolina or somewhere like that in the 1880s. Anyway, What I have observed is that watermelons and cantaloupes do splendidly well the first two years in a new location if well cared for. Then the next year they just don't thrive as well and cannot seem to finish up the fruits with full flavor and vigor. The next year some of the plants die suddenly of classic fusarium wilt about the time the fruits set on. Then what I have had happen is the next year the watermelons do splendidly until the fruits are 2/3 grown and whammy, the whole patch wilts in unison on a hot day. They recover at night , but every hot day they grow worse until most of them die. A few regrow from the center, but are too late to finish good sized fruits. Purdue calls this Mature Vine Decline [Sudden Wilt]. I didn't have that problem in the old melon patches last year, but a new problem that looked nothing like any pictures of melon diseases. The melons again grew splendidly until the fruits were well along. Then one plant on the end got yellow leaves in the center. Further out on the vines the leaves were mottled yellow and green. This developed until the leaves fell off. Then a neighbor plant got it and then the next one got it until one by one the whole row had it. This happened in all three locations. I belatedly used a fungicide Anyway, most of the plants recovered and started a whole new growth from the center and set on more fruits and were extra healthy. In my new location the melons were exceptional in size and number...see not diseased. Some commercial growers fumigate to get them through the season. I cannot do that. Even the big growers have all the fungals they want and more and they watch and spray like a hawk.

I have Royal Red,a seedling type from a friend, unknown left by previous owners,Pink Delight, and Dubonnet. I have lost a few BB's over the years while living in the same area - a Pink Delight and a Nanho Purple. Royal Red is NOT red, but more like a fuschia. It is now a year old and has come back fine. All my others are at least three years old or older, and I've had a lot of success. It it were me, I'd look for the largest size plant that you can find at a reasonable price. And just keep trying until you get one that likes where it's planted. Definitely mulch. I think if you can keep it over at least one winter, you'll stand a better chance of having it for a long time. I never trim mine back until I see new bottom growth in the spring - it may be as late as May. And, stay away from Nanho varieties. They are not hardy here in zone 5/6, so would probably not be hardy for you in zone 5. Linda

Yes. I winter sow them as well and then put the container in a dark place. We have an old ancient brick ice house on the farm here and I put the container in there with a paper bag over the top to block out any light. I forget about it and a few weeks later I think of them and go take the stuff off the top and there are baby delphs! Then I take them and put them on a shelf on the front porch---still in the cold--but now they can have light. Also--delphs do better watered from the bottom---less damping off. I set the container in a tray and put the water in there when they need it and let them suck it up from the bottom. Hope this helps. Aunt Lou

I have not grown that paticular type, but I have been very successful with bell peppers. I grow California Wonders. Out of 8 plants, I have already picked 40+ bell peppers this year and there are still 3+ on each plant growing. If you don't get any help with this variety and want to try the California Wonders, let me know and I can get you some seeds. BTW, they have a great taste! Here is a link that might be useful: The Pepper Guy's Garden