My question is: My pole building is already up 15’x40x20 has deck in the front a concrete floor but it is all opened because the motorhome goes underneath It. I want to convert it to a guess house. How do I start from. Some builders already said it can not be don. I say it can!

Not a roofer, either, but I do have the care of one large house and six two-story barns, all with 150 year-old slates roofs in a very challenging northern climate. I see you're in NY, so I trust you haven't actually torn off your roof, yet. Take a breath, this has been an unusually nasty winter, and while you may wind up removing the roof down to the (or including) sheathing, it may not turn out to be necessary. To begin, please, understand that there are as many Absolute Truths about roof care and maintenance, as there are licensed roofers. (More actually, because there are a lot of unlicensed roofers - and opinionated amateurs, like me- and they/we definitely have their/our own theories, as well!) Can you find out from the previous owners or from examining the water stains or asking neighbors, is this a new problem, or regular winter carnival-type event? (I'm not trying to make a joke at your expense, but ya gotta keep your sense of humor when dealing with roof leaks. I know that from hard experience.) If this is an unusual year, then I wouldn't jump into tearing the roof off, if it is otherwise in good shape. Since you have a modern material (Tamko) your experience may be different from mine. But perhaps it will help you to know that I have no felt, no shield, no drip edge, spotty guttering, no ridge vent or any of the other must-haves you're being offered; some years I have minor problems with ice dams, and most years, I don't. The reason for this is that ice dams are believed to be caused by factors other than the roof and its attendant components. One of those factors is the vagaries of weather, of course. Another is heat escaping up through the house's walls and creating the ice dam, that blocks the water, that then backs up until it finds a likely crevice and becomes a leak. Unless your roof also leaks every time it rains heavily in the summer, then repairs or modifications to the roof are all aimed at treating a symptom (water unable to run down off the roof and finding its way where it ought not be) rather the root cause of the ice dams - the build-up of an ice blob in the winter which blocks the water from running down the roof like it does in the summer. It might be possible to have nearly all the things that are being recommended to you and still have water damage from an ice dam. First of all, how old is your house? What's your roof like - steep, flattish, hip? How many stories? What style is your house? (Can't imagine how wrapping ice shield or drip edge or other flashing around the fascia boards would look....!) What's the state of your wall and/or attic insulation? You sound quite worried and fussed. Can't blame you and I'm sorry for it. I expect you'll figure out what needs to be done and it may not be as bad as you fear. A beginning resource would be to contact the Tamko people and/or your builder if the house isn't very old and get their opinions about what to do. They may offer some useful suggestions. You also could do some research here and elsewhere on the web about ice dams. And bear in mind the suggestions of the other posters about licensing, insurance and dumping permits, etc. There are a lot of opportunities to make the problem worse rather than better; and roofing repairs, even the cheapest estimates, are not inexpensive. I'm sure others will chime in, and when we have more info, be able to offer some additional suggestions that may be helpful. If you've had a lot of damage, you might check your homeowner's policy ...... Also, if you have additional heavy snow, is it possible to have the lower portion of the roof raked before the snow has a chance to make a pest of itself? This is a hard job (and can be dangerous), so don't undertake it lightly. Sometimes you can hire roofing companies to come and rake during the winter. Providing they don't damage the roofing, this would be fine.

Here's a pic showing our faux rafter tails. Not the best pic, but you get the idea. I remember now why closed soffits are required in some areas- fire prevention. Almost all of the outside materials on our house are fire-resistant, offering some small comfort living in the woods during an extreme drought.

40s & 50s attic fans resembled a modern ceiling fan but were belt driven. Similar fans are still used in livestock barns,construction sites and commercial warehouses. They are whisper quit if mounted so that viberation isn't transferred to structural framing.