Here is a link to the label for that product. That label specifically says not to use it on the Floratam variety of St Augustine. If that is what you have, then you are in trouble. If not, then the grass should recover after a brief yellowing. This time of year you should not use a chemical fertilizer on St Augustine. You may; however, use all the organic fertilizer you want without fear of doing any further damage. It will help with greening when the grass bounces back. The organic fertilizer I like is plain alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). Apply at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Although the alfalfa effect begins immediately by feeding the microbes in the soil/sand, it takes a full 3 weeks to see the improvement in the lawn. The label also says not to apply if the temp is going to be 90 degrees. You did not have that situation, but so many people do I just want to reemphasize the point. Although the label says 90 degrees, the common homeowner should not apply above 85 degrees. You're just asking for problems. It sounds like you applied over the entire lawn. One of the reasons to use a liquid like this is so you can just spot spray the weeds and not have to worry about messing up the entire lawn. If you had only spot sprayed your feeling of heartbreak over this would be tempered considerably. If this goes bad for you, it's going to be very bad. Here's a summary of how to make St Aug grow. Water deeply once a week. This is slightly variable, and we're hearing from the Florida crowd this year. If you are watering more than 2x per week or more than every 5 days, you should back off. I realize you're probably getting rain every day, so you really don't need to be adding more water. Once the rainy season ends, with temps in the 80s, you should be able to go 10 days to 2 weeks without watering. This depends on your soil (sand), heat, humidity, cloud cover, shade from trees, wind, grass type, grass mowing height, and some other factors. When you put all that together, every 2 weeks seems to work for most everyone. If it does not work for Florida sand, we need to hear about it here. What does work? Daily watering is NOT the answer. I live in the desert and here it is mid July. I'm just now getting around to watering my St Aug. My situation is different for the reasons listed, but in any case, infrequent watering is better than frequent watering. Once you are watering infrequently the weed problems seem to go away. Weed seeds need continual moisture to germinate. When you go a week or two between watering, the weed seeds never germinate. If you are currently watering daily like most in Florida, you will have to wean your grass off that schedule. I've already written a lot, so if you're doing that, write back and we can tell you how to get off the daily. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting - ALWAYS. There is never any reason to lower the mower height for St Augustine. If you have a dwarf variety, set it for the middle. Most people don't have the dwarf, so start with it at the highest. My personal preference is to keep my lawn at 12 inches (again, different situation). This is a water conservation project and it's working. Fertilize with organics. Why? Because you can do it any day of the year with no hassle. With chemical fertilizers there is a long label to read. My alfalfa comes in a plain brown bag with no label. Just apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet - no hassle. In the deeper south you can fertilize on all the big federal holidays. I start on Washington's Birthday, then Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you want to fertilize less often, then use Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you follow that advice you should have a dense mat of dark green St Augustine. You should not need weed killer, but if you do, then just spot spray. With organic insects do not seem to be a problem. The reason is biological and has to do with the health of the soil microbes as well as the health of the insects when eaten by birds, lizards, geckos, and toads. It's very complicated but healthy soil and healthy insects seem to balance everything.

I've found that Brush-B-Gone works on ground ivy without killing the grass - although your grass may turn somewhat yellow for a while. Further, fertilizer with boron in it helps to control the stuff. Pulling is great therapy. Using all three methods, I've managed to get the beast under control in an area that was once almost total ground ivy. Unfortunately, I'm beginning to find it in areas in my field and in the woodlands. The woodlands stuff is easy to pull; the field ground ivy gets a dose of BBG. P.S. BBG also works well on garlic mustard.

You have centipede in California? Is that a new trend since the drought? 99% of all the centipede is in Florida and still that's not very much centipede. It grows best in terrible soil with terrible care. It needs almost no fertilizer. People say that once every other year you can drag an empty fertilizer bag over it and that's enough. It loves the acidic soils like they have on the east coast. I would think St Augustine and bermuda would be the main go-to grasses in the Central Valley. Some water restrictions are fairly enlightened and some are guaranteed to kill everything if you follow them. Ours are horrible. We can water from 7am to 9am and 9pm to 11pm on one day per week. Well, who's around in the morning from 7-9??? You'd have to be retired. I suppose you could use timers (and I have a good one). But timers don't work for veggie gardens and plants located around the yard. That leaves 2 hours in the dark to get your watering done. In San Antonio we could water from midnight until 10am and from 8pm to midnight on your day. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

What has the temperature been like there in Atlanta lately? I'm going to go out on a limb here, and guess "pretty dang hot"! Lawns under heat stress, drought, or high temperature conditions should not have herbicides applied. Usually most herbicide labels mention 90° F, what we call "weeds" are usually VERY hardy compared with turfgrass, have deep taproots and/or waxy coatings on the leaves. Consequently while the weed plant defenses are at their best in tough growing conditions for turf, the grass plant may be damaged. When it's real hot and dry there isn't much of anything to be done for a lawn, at least cool season turfgrasses.