Here is a link to the label for that product. That label specifically says not to use it on the Floratam variety of St Augustine. If that is what you have, then you are in trouble. If not, then the grass should recover after a brief yellowing. This time of year you should not use a chemical fertilizer on St Augustine. You may; however, use all the organic fertilizer you want without fear of doing any further damage. It will help with greening when the grass bounces back. The organic fertilizer I like is plain alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). Apply at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Although the alfalfa effect begins immediately by feeding the microbes in the soil/sand, it takes a full 3 weeks to see the improvement in the lawn. The label also says not to apply if the temp is going to be 90 degrees. You did not have that situation, but so many people do I just want to reemphasize the point. Although the label says 90 degrees, the common homeowner should not apply above 85 degrees. You're just asking for problems. It sounds like you applied over the entire lawn. One of the reasons to use a liquid like this is so you can just spot spray the weeds and not have to worry about messing up the entire lawn. If you had only spot sprayed your feeling of heartbreak over this would be tempered considerably. If this goes bad for you, it's going to be very bad. Here's a summary of how to make St Aug grow. Water deeply once a week. This is slightly variable, and we're hearing from the Florida crowd this year. If you are watering more than 2x per week or more than every 5 days, you should back off. I realize you're probably getting rain every day, so you really don't need to be adding more water. Once the rainy season ends, with temps in the 80s, you should be able to go 10 days to 2 weeks without watering. This depends on your soil (sand), heat, humidity, cloud cover, shade from trees, wind, grass type, grass mowing height, and some other factors. When you put all that together, every 2 weeks seems to work for most everyone. If it does not work for Florida sand, we need to hear about it here. What does work? Daily watering is NOT the answer. I live in the desert and here it is mid July. I'm just now getting around to watering my St Aug. My situation is different for the reasons listed, but in any case, infrequent watering is better than frequent watering. Once you are watering infrequently the weed problems seem to go away. Weed seeds need continual moisture to germinate. When you go a week or two between watering, the weed seeds never germinate. If you are currently watering daily like most in Florida, you will have to wean your grass off that schedule. I've already written a lot, so if you're doing that, write back and we can tell you how to get off the daily. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting - ALWAYS. There is never any reason to lower the mower height for St Augustine. If you have a dwarf variety, set it for the middle. Most people don't have the dwarf, so start with it at the highest. My personal preference is to keep my lawn at 12 inches (again, different situation). This is a water conservation project and it's working. Fertilize with organics. Why? Because you can do it any day of the year with no hassle. With chemical fertilizers there is a long label to read. My alfalfa comes in a plain brown bag with no label. Just apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet - no hassle. In the deeper south you can fertilize on all the big federal holidays. I start on Washington's Birthday, then Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you want to fertilize less often, then use Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. If you follow that advice you should have a dense mat of dark green St Augustine. You should not need weed killer, but if you do, then just spot spray. With organic insects do not seem to be a problem. The reason is biological and has to do with the health of the soil microbes as well as the health of the insects when eaten by birds, lizards, geckos, and toads. It's very complicated but healthy soil and healthy insects seem to balance everything.

1. Having my neighborhood go up in flames 2. Having my neighborhood washed away in a flood 3. Having my neighborhood be swallowed up in the next quake, #1 No fires if you stay away from the hill's where there are lots of old dead tree's #2 Floods - Just stay away from those few areas #3 Will yea Earth Quakes are defiantly scary! Can't do much about that. I would recommend a one story ground level house. As you can see I have a two story Cape Cod style home. I'm always worried we will get shook off our foundation. Earthquake insurance it is too expensive with huge deductibles! Everything does grow good here though. Weather is nice most the year. LetÂs see sod laying tips. When I lay sod I straighten the sod edges and corners as I go and make sure no grass gets stuck between the sod edges. This will avoid dead grass and brown and yellow stripes between the sod pieces that can make fungus and just makes for a bad start. I spray the ground with water and put down a little fertilizer as I lay the sod. I always use my square so I get nice square edges when I cut sod. Sometimes I donÂt even till the ground. Sod will live on the patio if you water it. I do it all the time. DonÂt over water your new lawn. Get out there and lift up the sod and see how wet it is. If you over water your new lawn you will get chlorosis and fungus like I have now from too much rain. If I need to replace a small spot I use a plate or bucket for a stencil and cut out the bad piece. Then I use the plate or bucket to cut a new piece of sod from extra sod that I keep on the patio or garden. If you are going to put in French drains or remove and replace tree's itÂs better to do it first. I did it all backwards. I have a spot were an old tree and its roots were removed and it keeps sinking along with the trenches were I put the drains. If you put drains. It is good to attach your rain gutter down spouts to them. Also if you dig your ditch for your sprinklers try to keep the top soil separate from any clay soil that may be down lower and put the soil back in the whole the same way you took it out. The grass grows better on the top soil than the clay. ThatÂs about all I can think of for now other than I like Blue Grass because it self fills. But. If you have shade you will need to over seed now and then were it thins out. I left a link below to other garden pics. I like to grow fruit trees as well. I get all my info for the roses and fruit tree's here on GardenWeb. Take care Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pics

Thanks all for the tips on weed control! I'll wait until my boo's have finished shooting and then apply this stuff while the weeds are still small/most sensitive. Speaking of shooting, we have had a REALLY late spring here in WNY. My 'spectabilis' yellow groove just started poking shoots out of the ground and none of my other phyllostachys species (atrovaginata, nigra henon, nuda, and rubromarginata) show any signs of shooting yet. All the other trees and plants are equally behind. We're just starting to get small leaves expanding out of buds here, and some trees aren't even that far along! The evening lows are still below 40 degrees some nights; I feel bad for the farmers as their growing season is starting to get impinged on.

If the material you applied contains glyphosate as the active ingredient, as most Roundup formulations do, and you followed label directions, it should not be affecting your tree in this way. Once it hits soil, glyphosate is not herbicidally active. Of course if it drifted off target or you applied it to the leaves, or green bark or branches, or sprouts of the Bauhinia it will be taken up and cause problems. I'm not familiar with the other herbicide you mentioned. Other herbicides can definitely move up in rootzones, even those used for selective weed control in turf such as dicamba.