Cherry Laurel trees - what's the scoop?
SaintPFLA
15 years ago
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SusieQsie_Fla
15 years agolaura1
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Cherry Laurel's dying
Comments (3)If these are Prunus laurocerasus I would take issue with their requiring acidic soil. They are becoming a weed tree in woods here on most soils. You don't say where you live so it's hard to know what temps these have been subjected to. Here they will grow in quite dense dry shade such as under trees so I wouldn't expect them to enjoy heat. What cultivar are those? They seem very small. Are they a dwarf such as Otto Luyken?...See MoreReplacing a cherry laurel
Comments (1)Rusty blackhaw (Viburnum rufidulum) or other native viburnums are worth a look if you don't need evergreen. The evergreen Texas mountain laurel (Sophora secundiflora ) may be too marginal in zone 7, but its deciduous relative Eve's Necklace (Sophora affinis) would probably be okay. Both survived our last especially cold winter in 8a. Smoke tree and desert willow are also nice options. No experience with smoke tree. But winter ice can tear up larger desert willows; a consideration if you get much of it regularly. Here is a link that might be useful: Rusty Blackhaw, Southern Blackhaw, ... This post was edited by bostedo on Fri, Jun 20, 14 at 15:21...See MoreCherry Laurel losing leaves
Comments (1)Hard to say. Have you checked for borers?...See MoreCherry Laurel Shrubs Struggling
Comments (10)I feel bad that my response discouraged you from continuing to find the source of your problem. Let me try again. Overzealous new gardeners is "a thing". I wasn't insulting you. And I genuinely didn't know what you meant by being "new to landscaping". A lot of new gardeners (I'm not talking about you.) see some leaf damage and the next week, they're in a store getting advice on how to rid themselves of whatever pest it is. A more experienced gardener might tell them not to worry about the damage yet. It might be temporary; the outbreak might be small; and natural predators might show up---if they're not poisoned. Also, a primary cause of disease, and a reason pests are sometimes attracted to a plant, is specifically because it has an underlying problem that makes them vunlnerable, and that should be addressed. I didn't accuse you of fertilizing your plants, if that's what you thought. You said you hadn't fertilized them because it was too hot. I was merely further advising you as a newbie that a struggling plant does not want fertilization, whether it's hot or not, unless fertility is what it's lacking. When my mother was ill with pneumonia and not eating and barely conscious, I wanted to force-feed her, but I was advised by medical practitioners that that was not in her best interest. Same with an ill plant. Unless of course, its malady is starvation. You got some good advice from Garden Gal. I think both of us agree that the plant needs to be lifted and replanted in soil as close to native as possible. You can apply amendments from above. Compost is generally not advised to be applied to a planting hole in a permanent planting. You could incorporate it into an annual bed---your vegetable garden, say. I don't think the problem is soil compaction unless you actually sieved the soil. You might think about lifting the plant and looking at the roots. There should be new white roots forming if the plant is taking off as one would expect after being put in the ground and removed from the pots. We do know that amending a planting hole with compost can negatively impact their growth; why not make that your prime suspect? Although, I don't know what happens when an entire perennial bed is amended with compost, etc. Garden Gal can tell you what to expect from that. I know the bed will sink in exact proportion to the amound of compost applied, but I don't know how the bowl effect is impacted. Good luck....See Moregatormomx2
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