Weeping Bottlebrush Tree in pot
jollyjp
9 years ago
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jollyjp
9 years agoRelated Discussions
weeping pussy willow tree.....help
Comments (7)I may be wrong, but I have been told that the pussy willows can deal with soil of average moisture, down to positively wet soil! Even so, if you can, put it in an area that gets a fair bit of natural moisture (runoff, etc.), rather than on the highest point of your yard. You WILL have to water it well (a gallon or more) when first planted out, every few days for the first 2 weeks, and then cut back to weekly (unless it's rained) for the next few months, until the end of Nov. If it's another mild winter, or if you are on sandy soil, I would keep on watering, lightly, in the winter, and then more heavily as it leafs out, through next summer, when the roots should have grown enough to cut back on watering to every few weeks. Newly planted trees SHOULD be watered weekly for the first 2 years, although most of us consider them lucky if the watering gets done at all after the first 6 months!! That said, I did water a bunch of my trees/shrubs that had been planted for more than 18 mo. over this summer, to stave off stress from the NASTY combination of very high heat and no rain for 3-4 months! Mulching around the tree, out to 3-4' will help with the watering, keeping the soil evenly moist. Just DON'T put any mulch closer to the trunk than 3-6 inches, and don't pile it higher than 6 inches. Mulch next to the trunk invites fungus anad rotting, and deeper than 6" prevents the free exchange of gasses/oxygen through the soil. You want to encourage the roots to grw out as widely as possible. Oh yeah, DON'T plant any willow next to your water lines or your septic system. They DO like water, and their roots will infiltrate the system....See Moreweeping china doll rose trees
Comments (2)You might want to post this on the general Roses Forum for more responses. That stem coming up from the soil is a sucker from the rootstock, you definitely want to dig down and rip this out....See MoreFixing potted roots, or when is a potted tree a potted tree
Comments (5)Worst problems with larger trees and shrubs typically date back to when they were small trees. The only difference with the specimen being more advanced is that you have more to work your way back through to look for a tight knot or fist below the crown dating back to when it was left too long in a band or small pot - buying them small only makes the deformed roots easier to expose and see. If the disposition of the roots is too severe you are either stuck with planting it and hoping for the best or giving up on it - I threw out a 35 dollar one gallon weeping Nootka cypress because at planting I found that the ENTIRE root system consisted of what looked like a ponytail hair braid like some women belonging to Jehovah's Witnesses wear. How the grower was even able to get the rootstock to twist around itself like that I cannot imagine. Not only was it coiled but it dipped down and then back up, in a U shape. You only plant in spring because that is when the plants are on the market (in good condition, apart from the usual root issues) or because the plants are tender kinds. Otherwise hardy stock should always be planted in fall, late enough that summer heat and drought has passed or is waning but early enough that the big fall annual root elongation has not occurred. (If the roots have to be operated on to a sufficient extent most of the extending of existing roots in fall may be lost, as only intact roots do this). You can tell if a specimen may be about to do this or already doing it by looking at the top, the setting of winter stem buds at the ends of mature, hardened shoots is what causes the root tips to grow at this time of the year. Spring planting is culturally inferior because the soil has been chilled all winter and summer heat and drought are around the corner. Bare-rooted stock from grower warehouses is only planted in spring because the feeder roots are all dried up and dead, need to be replaced before the specimen is fully functional - fall-planted bare-rooted stock is essentially hardwood cuttings with old roots already present but still needing to be protected from the worst winter conditions. New roots grow in spring in response to the opening of winter stem buds. Both in fall and in spring these buds generate hormones which cause the roots to grow. This is one of multiple reasons you don't want to cut tops back at planting, you are reducing the amount of hormones that will reach the roots....See MoreAngel Falls Weeping White Pine - Baby tree
Comments (5)You can safely plant any time of year here in the PNW! Midsummer is the least desirable because it is so dry but even that is easily accomplished with attention to watering needs. I oversee the installations of my landscape designs for clients all 12 months of the year!! Plant it in the ground now. It is much easier to attend to the needs of an inground planted young tree than it is to one growing in a container. A photo of the baby would help but staking a weeping cultivar is often suggested to gain desired height, otherwise the tree tends to grow in more of a mound. And while some vendors do send planting instructions, if you have ever planted a tree or large shrub before, the instructions would be the same so not really a requirement :-) There is nothing about the pine that would necessitate different treatment....See Morecatrenovation
3 years ago
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Carol love_the_yard (Zone 9A Jacksonville, FL)