Hi Changsong!

I got one in the mail this summer that was 2ft tall and also quite leggy. I cut some branches back severely and left others alone. The ones I did cut back did not sprout along the naked branch but at the base of the branch where it connects to the trunk (so I ended up cutting back the naked branch stubs once the new stems grew up).
I'm curious if others have any advice on pruning Aglaia. I did notice that the new branches flowered profusely (and are still putting out flower buds even after bringing it inside for the winter).
I think in the spring I will pull it out of its pot and trim the roots and give it fresh potting soil.

-Robert

When grown in a pot, Aglaia odorata can and should be pruned back hard on a periodic basis. This prevents it from becoming a lanky, leggy mess and encourages frequent blooming. As was mentioned above, pruning often stimulates new growth at the base of old stems, rather than near the tips like most plants.

Thanks Robert and ispahan for the replies. I was always scared at prune the plant severly. I'll follow your suggestion and prune some branches hard at first, then see how that is going. Thanks a lot,
Happen gardening!
Changsong

You're welcome! Good luck. I also found a site that recommends pinching the tips to encourage bushiness.

Here is a link that might be useful: Care for Aglaia odorata

Robert: Thanks for the link. That is very helpful! Changsong

Howdy...For the first time ever, I bought an Aglaia a month or two ago.
Since I'm in IL, my Aglaia is in a container, wintered indoors, summered outside.

It's on the small side, 5.5". Little balls, probably buds produced a week or two back.
How long does it take for buds to open?

Robert, although the link you posted was helpful, it's basic, didn't answer all my questions.

For instance..Sun. Does Aglaia need direct or indirect sun?

Soil. Which type is best? What about pH?

Fertilizer. Which type? All-Purpose or Flowering?

Humidity. Does Aglaia need high, medium or low humidity?

It's before a west window, with some reflected light from a Gro-Light. The room is on the cool side. Humidity varies. We keep a humidifer running from Nov-May, and an indoor fountain in the room where Aglaia lives.

I'd love seeing pics from those of you who have 2' Aglaias. Especially in flower.

Thanks much, Toni

The best and most accurate instructions for caring for Aglaia odorata are found on the Logee's website. I grow my plants exactly as they describe and I have never never had any problems.

Here is a link that might be useful: Aglaia care-Logee's

Hi Toni!

Ispahan's Logee's link has excellent tips.
Growing outside the tiny green flower buds turned to yellow fairly quickly (I never timed it but I'd say a week or two?). Inside I've noticed the flowers are taking much longer to turn yellow. When they do I'll try to post a pic. :)
I'd give it as much sun as possible while growing indoors.
Outside I grew mine in full sun in the morning and then filtered sun the rest of the day.
I also grew it in the 5:1:1 soil mixture (drains quickly) which you can find the recipe to make your own mixture on this site by searching for 5:1:1.
This is my first year to grow it but so far it seems to be a very easy plant.

Good luck!

-Robert

Here's some pics of my 2ft Aglaia in bloom as requested.
On the windowsill to the left you can see my smaller Aglaia.
Mind you these are from my phone so don't expect much detail. ;)
I didn't cut back all of the branches so you can see a mixture of new branches and the old leggy ones.
I've been tip pruning the new branches to try to make it bushier.
It's definitely a happier plant after you chop it back some.

-Robert

Thanks everyone for the good information.

And Robert your plants are fabulous.

Changsong

I just got a tiny one of these from Logees and am trying to pick out the right pot and soil. Can I use cactus mix potting soil since it needs quick draining soil? Also can I put it in a self watering pot or would that be keeping it too evenly moist even though it's a clay pot?

One last question - when do you start pruning to make it bushier? Mine is one center stem with leaves only and about 10" tall. Do I wait until the leaves make their own stems and prune those back but never prune the initial center stem? Might sound like a silly question to those in the know but I grow alot of roses and prune from the top. Thanks for the help!

Thank you, Changsong! Your compliment made me smile.

Dallas,

This is the first year I've grown this plant but I'll tell you what I've done so far.
The plant I received from Pepper's Greenhouses was tiny. Maybe 3 inches or so. When it was 10 inches or so I cut back the inital center stem (the 'trunk'). The side branches I tip pruned when they were around 3 inches tall. I also pinched off the leaves at the base of the trunk to make it more tree like.

My plant is now 13 inches and starting to look more full.

As for the potting mix Cactus mix and/or regular Miracle Gro potting soil would be fine as long as you let the soil dry between waterings. I personally like making my own mix.
I would not suggest a self watering pot since Aglaia's need a well drained mix and to let the soil dry out between watering (so not constantly moist which a self watering pot would do).

Good luck!

Robert

Ive had mine for about 6 months and it grows slowly but flowers well. It seems to give off its sweet lemony fragrance if the daytime temperature is at least 20°C/68°F for two days - it's now mid winter here in Sydney, and I suddenly noticed it's addictive fragrance that travels several metres/yards (the first time since autumn). I've got mine next to a tabletop pot of white alyssum, which gives off a noticeable honey fragrance, and will flower year round. It seems I now have year round fragrance in a very small space.

Hey guys!

I have one about 2 feet tall placed indoors in a south faced window. Been taking care of it according to Logees' instructions. Suddenly it has begun dropping a lot of leaves, and some of the new green flower buds. What on earth is going on? Have you guys tried that? And what could I do to save it?

How old is the plant? Does it need to be potted into a larger pot (root bound)? Could you be over or under watering it?

It's a rooted cutting I got in a small pot - i guess it must be 6 month old. Of course, that is the age of the independent roots. Some of the stem and leaves would be older. I repotted it into a reasonably big pot when I got it.

I usually give it plenty of water and let it almost get completely dry before watering again.

Can you post a picture of your plant?

Perhaps the pot is too large. What kind of potting mix do you use? If you're able to make the 5:1:1 mix I would suggest that but I've had luck with regular Miracle-Gro potting mix (not the moisture control), additional perlite, and Miracle Gro orchid potting mix coarse blend all mixed together (I can find all of these at Lowe's). Also I keep mine outside in filtered sun when it's warm enough outside but when I have to move it back inside in the fall it does drop leaves due to the reduced amount of light. I don't let mine get almost completely dry between waterings. I would say mine is kept more evenly moist but mine is also in a fast draining mix and is probably potbound. I use a moisture meter whenever I'm in doubt of when I should water tricky plants.

Well, I can't take pictures of it, because I chopped it up and made two new cuttings of it instead. So, I have one miserable rooted plant, and hopefully two new ones in a couple of months. I'm doing a similar soil mix mostly with potting soil and perlite, though. :-)

So, I ended up taking the extreme approach, hoping that the mother plant might survive, or at least if it's dying, I can salvage the new cuttings.

By the way - do you remove the lower leaves from the cuttings, or do you just let them be?

Yes. I recommend removing the lower leaves, use rooting hormone, bottom heat, a mini greenhouse, and be prepared for them to take a long time to root. :)

Allright, thanks again! How thick(diameter) are the cuttings you use? I guess they have to be a bit developed before they can grow roots?

That I don't know. I've never had the patience to root one.

I would try a variety of diameters to see which might make roots.

Good luck and please let us know if you're successful! :)

Oh, okay :-) It's a long process, but I'll post a reply if my approaches proves succesful!

Neupart, use green twig ( not so soft) only top part, remove flowers. I propagated 4or5 small one 4years ago. the one on the picture above is one of them. the best time to rooting is July or Aug.

Great, thank you! - Do you also recommend removing the lower leaves?

yes, remove the lower leaves, also cut half of each of the left leaves.

Dear dou028! I've tried a couple of times, with a bottom-heat-setup in a windowsill that receives no direct sunlight, but is very bright. It is east-facing.

In a matter of days, my twigs drop their leaves and turn brown. Have you had this problem? Could it be because the temperature is too high from the bottom heater?

Could they be propagated without bottom heat, you think?

I do not know. It's much lower chance to propagate plants in winter(except gardenia and jasmine). I always do it in spring or raining season. and I do not use a heater. I think the most plants are inactive in winter and have no enough energy to grow roots.it takes at least 2 months.

Allright. I'll try again in the spring without the bottom heat. Thanks again! :-)

It still does not work for me. I use a rooting gel. Maybe a rooting powder would be better?

Can you tell me away you place the cuttings in? Is it potting mix or a wet jiffy? :-)

Neupart, I just saw you message.

I used top soil, perlite, vermiculite, 1:1:1. rooting powder bought from homedepot. Normal way to place the cutting is fine. try to remove most of leaves.

Thanks for the reply. I kept on trying with different approaches, but none of my attempts had lead to rooting.

With regards to medium, I tried different mixes of vermiculite, perlite and potting soil. Tried two different kinds of rooting hormones.

Tried different lengths of cuttings. (What length do you use?)

Tried to remove some of the leaves.

Tried with and without bottom heat and different levels of natural sunlight - I even tried artificial plant lighting!

What happens is that the cuttings quickly drop most of the leafs and slowly turns brown from the bottom.

I keep the cuttings in a humid box.

As you perhaps can tell - I'm terribly frustrated. However, just as stubbarn. So, could you perhaps post a picture of your setup? Maybe that'll inspire me towards a succesfull process.

Best regards,

A

That is the normal way, nothing special. It's just like the image attached(from online).

And I put the pot in outside shade area, remove the bag for 10-15 min. every other day.

Sorry I did not propagate plants for a long time. I have lots of exams.

the online image:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/37/07/24/37072474b2b3b8c264f87fa2bb0fce64--plant-propagation-cuttings.jpg

Indoor plants need special care and love. They need well drained soil mixture, indirect sunlight, sufficient water, fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides. Most of plants in winter goes to rest period. Most popular house plants are peace lily, devil's ivy, snake plants, dumb plants . House plants eliminate air pollutants and increasing humidity and production oxygen.

Hi folks it is me back again. sadly over the years i have owned and lost 3 or 4 Aglaia odorata plants, the last one being a few years ago. It is odd since Aglaia odorata is not supposed to be a difficult plant. maybe next year i will request one as mother’s day gift! thanks all to you!