Azaleas have somewhat low nutritional requirements compared to other shrubs when grown in acidic soil -Do you know the approximate ph of your soil as a starting point for making modifications? There are several reasons for leaf drop in azalea - they can be sparse and leggy in too much shade, thrips can cause leaf loss as can drought, so fertilizer isn't always the right approach to the problem. I haven't had reason to fertilize my own in my naturally acidic soil, but Holly-Tone is the product often recommended for azaleas and rhododendrons in areas with less than perfect ph, it's 4-6-4 and contains the sulfur, rarely are larger amounts of nitrogen recommended. Be careful too if you are thinking of cultivating around those surface feeding roots, it's easy to damage them. I find a top dressing of compost the best way to condition soil, slowly feed azaleas, conserve moisture.

Well, I had to work late yesterday and did not get a chance to ck the plants. Contacting the nursery will not work though; I obtained the two plants from a nursery that I ran into while traveling thru East Texas. I will just chalk it up to experience. At least the plants cost just $6 each so I am not off a lot of money. At planting time, I did not notice any root problems. But I did notice very little root growth (compared to a hydrangea that I also bought from them). When loosening the soil of both azaleas, I hardly saw roots growing against the plastic container. I think the azaleas/hydrangea were leftover from last year since they were leafless and the azaleas recently received by the nursery were green, bushy, flowering and located elsewhere on the grounds. As far as replacing R. canescens, I am planning to ask one of the local nurseries if they can special order natives from their distributor. Otherwise, I may ck one of the internet/mail order nurseries like Lazy K in Georgia. Question.... When one has root rot on a plant, should one also get rid of the soil where the plant was growing? Luis

There are many fungal infections which can cause black spotting on rhododendron leaves. Unless it is so severe it's threatening the overall survival of the plant, spraying is rarely necessary and frequently ineffective especially once the leaves are showing symptoms. Removing fallen leaves in the autumn can help prevent re-infection, but most rhododendron growers just live with it. If you feel spraying is necessary, the dosage recommended for azaleas is probably fine, but it's not going to make the spotting disappear.

Thank you for the information on grapes. I want something very cold hardy and that will ripen early. The grape arbor is out in an area that gets a little wind, but not much. We're in a small valley, but it's so cold because of the creek and there's no cement to keep things warm at night. Steve- We do have at least a 40 degree change between day and night temperatures. You can sit on the front porch as the sun goes behind the hill and watch the thermometer drop 20 degrees in about half an hour. It's great for cooling off the house, but not so good for the tomatoes. Last year I had no problems with the blossoms, but the tomatoes didn't get quite ripe before frost. I have some different varieties I'm trying this year. Since I have horses and work full time, gardening has to be fairly low maintenance. I try to find plants that do well with the weather, the deer and the hot, dry summers. Last year, my small gardens did pretty well for the most part. This year, I'm going to try adding a few more things and putting in more herbs. My one great weakness is roses. I seem to end up with roses and Hidcote lavender in almost every garden, except with the vegetables. I never was that big a fan of roses, until I planted some for my mom, a few years ago. They seem to do well for me (it's probably all the aged horse manure) that I mix in 1/2 and 1/2 with the clay soil. I'm going to try more old garden roses, since they're more cold hardy. I don't spray the roses at all, just give them some afternoon shade and lots of water in the summer. The deer like to eat them, but don't search very hard for them. As long as I don't put them on the edge of the yard, and mix up some herbs and blueberry bushes or lilacs behind them, they don't seem to bother them. There are so many fields, the deer aren't hungry, just bored and like to wander along the edge of the yard by the pasture. Thanks again for all the recommendations. Does anyone have a grape arbor, or do you grow your grapes on fences, wires, etc.?