Did you check the soil pH?

No, I have not but the Ph should have been close to perfect. Both natives are using new acidic soil sold just for the Dallas /Fort Worth Area (recommended by the Dallas Chapter of the Azalea Society and Texas A&M University).

Description of root rot - Leaves wilt. On evergreen species, the leaves become chlorotic and roll downward parallel to midrib and eventually wilt. Growth is stunted. Fine roots decay, and cankers may develop at the base of the stem.

Sunburn in winter would show as browning down leaf center, spring and summer as browning along leaf edges.

So, a couple of basic planting questions, hopefully not too basic....Could the canescens be planted too deeply, or was it planted with the rootball not loosened when taking it out of the container?

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:389744}}

The two plants are sticking out a little above the soil line (really a 'little'; I am guessing 1/2 inch or or so). The rootballs were loosened just prior to planting in the raised bed. Was that height OK? R. austrinum's leaves are such a nice healthy green but canescens's leaves were turning brown yesterday.

I may look today at the roots this afternoon. If they do not look white, what should I do? Get another plant or is there something I can do to rescue it?

I am starting to convince myself that I have root rot. This picture that I found in the web after reading MorZ8's comments shows the way the plant used to look like (the difference being that the leaves are now browning)

Here is a link that might be useful: University of Minnessotta Root Rot Picture

If your plant does prove to have root rot, and it was planted in a raised bed with soil recommended for azaleas, you might want to check back with the nursery where it was purchased. It doesn't sound like the rot necessarily started after you planted, possibly while still in the container. Did you notice any differences in the root structure at planting time?

Well, I had to work late yesterday and did not get a chance to ck the plants. Contacting the nursery will not work though; I obtained the two plants from a nursery that I ran into while traveling thru East Texas. I will just chalk it up to experience. At least the plants cost just $6 each so I am not off a lot of money.

At planting time, I did not notice any root problems. But I did notice very little root growth (compared to a hydrangea that I also bought from them). When loosening the soil of both azaleas, I hardly saw roots growing against the plastic container.

I think the azaleas/hydrangea were leftover from last year since they were leafless and the azaleas recently received by the nursery were green, bushy, flowering and located elsewhere on the grounds.

As far as replacing R. canescens, I am planning to ask one of the local nurseries if they can special order natives from their distributor. Otherwise, I may ck one of the internet/mail order nurseries like Lazy K in Georgia.

Question.... When one has root rot on a plant, should one also get rid of the soil where the plant was growing?

Luis

"Where the disease is new or localized in a garden, affected plants should be destroyed and the soil from the root-run be replaced. Take measures to improve soil drainage. "

I don't think the problem was in your raised bed, especially if you filled it with a soil mix made especially for azaleas. Root damage in containers (where the temps can become much higher than what roots are exposed to in the ground when wet) can also be from letting them become too dry, or fertilizer burn. Your plant may have begun to grow and not had enough roots left to sustain that growth. But, several references would indicate if your plant did have phythopthora, taking a shovel full of the immediate soil around the azalea and disposing of that soil would be prudent before replanting.