Do you grow ninebark in full sun without it burning?
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8 years ago
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Embothrium
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agoRelated Discussions
sun tolerance of monlo ninebark and pink diamond?
Comments (4)Ninebarks are known for getting powdery mildew when the soil is dry and there are high levels of humidity so soil moisture would be more of a concern during very humid weather. Otherwise they are fairly drought tolerant. Both your shrubs actually prefer and perform best in full sun or 6+ hours as shown in nhbabs photo. Not so much H. paniculata but ninebark does get leggy and has very dark green foliage in part shade, call it 4 hours or less....See MoreWhat hosta do you grow in a lot of sun?
Comments (19)I can grow S&S in full sun, along with any of the fragrant Hostas, and worry only about occasional water supplementation. Gold Standard on the other hand suffered from quite a bit of burn-out in pretty much full sun last year and was relocated to where it doesn't see direct sun much beyond 12.30PM. BTW, I'm in zone 8, but my latitude is just north of the 49th and I'm close to the ocean, so I never see temperatures much above 25C (77F). While the comments from others are always helpful, we should keep in mind to put them into proper context and perspective. Zones help, but what's the angle/intensity, that's something zones do not tell you. My zone 8 probably doesn't get near as hot in the summer as your zone 4, by the same token I'll bet there's plenty of zone 8's that get quite a bit above 80F on a regular basis and their experience with growing Hostas in full sun will be different from mine, I have no doubt....See Moregrowing peppers - full sun?
Comments (9)Relax. Panic doesn't solve anything. Habs should be fine in 4 or 5 gallon pots. I've grown them in 2 gallon pots. The key is to plant them in a well-draining soil-less growing medium and give them adequate water. If the pots are a dark color, they will absorb heat which could be hard on the plant roots. Setting up something to shade the pots themselves from the sun (I use bales of hay, but anything that would block the sun would be good) will help keep the roots cooler. Habaneros, except for the fairly newish hybrid 'Chichen Itza', are fairly late to start producing, but once they start producing, they produce loads of peppers. Peppers grow fine in full sun, but they also grow well and produce in as little as about 6 hours of direct sun here in our intense summer heat and sunlight, so don't be afraid to put them someplace where they will be shaded from the worst heat of the day. I move my peppers around every year and sometimes I just use taller okra or tomato plants to partially shade them, but this year I planted some of them in a raised bed that will get shade from a very large pecan tree beginning at about 2 p.m., and others were planted on the north side of a bean trellis and on the north side of a row of tomato plants so that the pole bean plants and tomato plants will give them some relief from the sun for part of the day. In the absolute worst summer weather, like we had in August of last year, I rig shade cloth over the plants to shade them. It may not be necessary, but I think they produce better if you can relieve some of the heat stress in the hottest part of the summer. Remember that with plants in pots, the constant watering will leach nutrients at the soil, so feed them regularly with a water soluable fertilizer to compensate for that. In order to get the best production, you need to buy a good, soil-less growing medium and pot up the poor things into larger containers, or find a way to put them into the ground, or something. Pepper plants will produce peppers even while the plants are in 4" pots, but they won't produce large peppers and they won't produce many of them. If you want good production, pot up the plants to give them a chance to thrive. Moving the plants from sun to shade won't shock them, but if you keep them in the shade too long, moving them back into full sun will be hard on them, so don't keep them in full shade for too long. Bell peppers slow down in the heat, but usually hot peppers don't, unless it is extreme heat. One thing you should know is that hot peppers raised in extreme heat often develop hotter flavor than that same variety will develop in cooler weather. So, be careful when biting into a hot pepper variety that you always have eaten without trouble before, because if it is raised in excessively hot temps, it will be hotter than it was in milder years. If I had planted a lot of peppers and had lost track of what they were, I'd try to pot up at least one of each group into a container so I could feel assured of giving to try each type. If you look at your peppers carefully, you'll see some difference in leaf shape between various kinds of peppers. Habanero leaves are distinct from most other pepper leaves for example. Learning to distinguish between them visually will help you in future years to some extent. As your plants begin producing peppers, you should be able to figure out more or less which ones or which by the shape and size of the maturing fruit. I stake all my peppers to wooden stakes hammered into the ground at planting time. Each stake is labeled with the name of that plant. The purpose of the stake is to hold the plant upright because, often, plants holding a full load of fruit will lean over, fall over or break. The stakes help prevent that. With some of the larger peppers, I use those little ringed cages that stores sell for tomatoes, but which are not large enough for most indeterminate tomato plants. Dawn...See MoreWhen/how to Shift Key Lime From Full Sun Inside to Full Sun Outside
Comments (11)Most of my citrus get only about 4 to 6 hours of sun in summer. I don't usually have them in full all-day sun. They seem to grow better in pots for me this way. For my situation the pots would overheat too much in all-day full sun. And I've never had a problem with blooming and fruit production. Usually they start blooming before I even set them out. I start them out in shade in spring and gradually -- over a period of 3 weeks -- move them to more sun. I do this because usually they have a lot of tender new growth before I even set them out. Actually toward September/October I do move them to as sunny and protected spot as possible because I want to make the most of the shorter and cooler days. Also want fruit to ripen....See Moreboxofrox
8 years agoUser
8 years agoUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoboxofrox
8 years agoUser
8 years agoEmbothrium
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMike McGarvey
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agoMike McGarvey
8 years ago
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