I don't want to put a damper on things, but I think most of the Rhododendrons listed in the link provided by Rhodyman, will not survive, let alone thrive, in Melbourne, FL. If you look at the list all of them are listed for zone 8 or lower. Looking at just the North American deciduous species, the following were listed for zone 8: R. alabamense R. atlanticum R. austrinum R. calendulaceum R. canescens R. cumberlandense R. flammeum Of these, only three are Florida natives: R. alabamense (found in a few panhandle counties, zone 8a), R. austrinum (found again only in the panhandle, zone 8a), and R. canescens (found throughout north and central Florida down into even zone 10 in places). Strangely R. viscosum v. serrulatum (AKA R. serrulatum) was not listed. It also can be found into the northern reaches of south Florida. The remaining species do not live in Florida, but R. atlanticum, R. arborescens, R. flammeum, and R. prunifolium have populations not too far north of the Florida boarder. Based on experience with growing plants in Florida (I lived there 21 years), here's my view. In the Melbourne area you may grow R. canescens and R. viscosum v. serrulatum. All other species of deciduous azalea will not grow for more than a season or two before dying. I can't speak for hybrids though. The problem isn't so much the high temperatures as such, but rather the duration of the warm season and the lack of a proper winter dormancy. In Gainesville, FL (zone 8b) I grew R. austrinum, R. canescens, R. serrulatum, and two native Rhodos, R. minus and R. minus v. chapmanii. I experimented with R. flammeum and R. prunifolium with minimal success. R. calundulaceum has been tried by a number of growers in that area with no successes I've heard about. I never got the chance to try any others. PF

Hey Big Paulie, We've been experimenting with grownig Clematis here in the Tampabay area for several years now and here's what we have found out.(been dying to have these growing for us foe some time!) we have had some moderate success with buying the small ones that you see(even now at walmart) in 4" pots and planting them well in all different sun/shade conditions(just to insure that some survive and maybe even do well. And some do,(we have several poping up new shoots right now) but usually only half survive, and don't ever really thrive, and are very,very slow to grow and mature(!!) almost staying stunted from our Summer heat I think. But we have had great success with starting with large already mature plants. We have two growing like gang busters right now(!!) one dk.purple and a Sweet Autehm Clematis(not our favorite though,S.A.Cl.) and we'll probalbly look to add another one or more this year(!!) The Key is spend a little more and get a big 3yr old plant from a reputibal seller and don't waste your money on the 5 or more dollar babies. Well, hope that helps,Happy Gardening, Terry. Oh, hey if your into fish,(and breeding and such)you gotta have a pond(!!!)(we have 2!) and have even kept African Chlids in one for years and they did really well!

I was in the middle of the "Lakeland Heat Island" if there is such a thing, and the lowest I saw was 26F. Where I live, we didn't see any snow, but our friends were sending pictures of snow, sleet, and ice to us on facebook. I thought for sure that the day where the high in urban Lakeland (right next to I-4) was 37F, that we'd see snow, but we didn't and only dropped to 27F that night. I even joked with my mom on the phone that I was packing for Key West. Regarding the dead plants in Clermont, it could also be that other conditions played a part. The wind was howling this winter, and that has a way of drying out the trees faster along with negating some of the microclimates. A lot of the hardiness information we get is based on just a regular freeze with little or no wind. Can't say for sure, but I would theorize that it also helped lower soil temps because of the air constantly moving. We also have to factor in individual plant genetics. I heard of coconut fatalities within 500 ft. of other plants that had maybe 40% leaf burn in Miami, then went to a very nice microclimate (surrounded by dense plants on all but the south side) in Vero Beach and found a plant with no damage. This was easily the longest cold spell I have experienced, but not the coldest. When I lived in Frostproof, I saw 24F one night. It really sucked, but it didn't last long and the next day was 60F for a high, something that just didn't happen this year.

Hey Ptmclanahan, As far as growth rates, that sounds phenomenal even for a tall variety, and you said that you planted a dwarf. That is the fastest growing coconut palm I have ever heard of. They are fast growers, but man yours is growing faster than a weed! The fastest one I have ever had is a Hawaiian Tall, which grows about 4.5-5ft. per year. Dwarfs, usually only grow about 3.5-4ft. per year. The Malayan Dwarfs start producing their first coconuts at about 3-4 years after sprouting, therefore, you can literally have one with a trucnkof only about 4ft. that will have coconuts on it. The talls, however take 7-8 years to produce their first coconuts and their trunks are usually about 15-20ft. tall at that point. I am sorry, but I feel compelled to jump in on the Zone argument. I live in Coconut territory here in the Lower Rio Grande Valley, and it sounds like we have more of them here than what you are describing in the Orlanda/Kissimmee area, yet our winters are slightly cooler here than yours are. There is a pretty good looking Golden Malayan Dwarf about 15ft. tall in San Benito (just south of Harlingen). And I have seen some good looking 30ft. tall Mexican Talls in Brownsville, so I wouldn't be worried about yours making it through the winter, especially if you have a lot of lakes (that have water in them; how bad has the drought been there?). Remember to fertilize your dwarfs with a good palm fertilizer with a 12-4-8 ratio and micronutrients. Fertilize around the base of the palm (a few inches away from the base out to the outer range of the leaves, work the fertilizer into the top couple of inches of soil, then water them good). Do this in the Spring, Summer, and Fall. Then mulch with Cypress Mulch (a good native mulch) to a depth of about 2 inches in about a 3ft. radius pattern around your palm, but not right up againt the trunk- allow about 2-3 inches of space from the trunk to the mulch). If you do these things, your Malayans should be fine, even in Kissimmee, and you should have coconuts in about 3 years! They will probably grow to be about 25-30ft. tall to the top of the crown in your area! Enjoy! John