It's a bit hard to tell but it looks like there were alot of brand new tender shoots and leaves that had sprouted that got some major frost/freeze damage. Seems like those may have come from a greenhouse or warmer spot and then were sitting out somewhere exposed whenever you had your last frost/freeze. Did you have a frost/freeze after they were planted? I'm sortof a weather nut and I know there were some frosts over here in outlying areas - but that was at the beginning of the month and we're usually a couple days later with respect to the weather where you are. You can snip off all the completely brown leaves and let them settle in and see how they recover.

Peavee; Suggestion; Take a ride to MOBOT in St.Louis and check to see what they are doing correctly with thier Rhododendrons, ask those folks what they did to make them grow so well . Are yours in a raised bed?? sitting in a "water well", clay soil, what medium, Ph value, pine bark mulch, only soil, etc - give us more info.

Brunnera macrophylla is an easy keeper, lovely clounds of true blue flowers which would bloom at the same time as PJM. You could use any of the variegated cultivars (Jack Frost is certainly good) but the straight species is an underused and excellent garden plant. All of these earn their keep as attractive groundcovers which would provide a good base for the rhodie. Add to this the white flowered form of the big bleeding heart (D. spectabilis 'Alba') and I bet that would make a great composition. I have a PJM dwarf underplanted with Ajuga 'Caitlin's Giant', which is my favorite ajuga. The ajuga probably flowers too late to coincide with the rhodie, but the rich glossy blackish foliage provides a really lovely base for the rhodie as well. This plant also looks great with Lamistrum 'Herman's Pride' Any number of epimediums coincide with bloom time for this rhododendron and would also be great ground covers through the season. I think magenta looks great tempered by an acid or soft yellow. How about E. perralchicum 'Froenleiten', or the common neosulphureum. Epimediums, in general, are great underplanting plants for all kinds of rhodies and give interest to the bases of these plants, which can look kinda leggy. And add some ferns and hostas, lemon yellow daffodils and/or dark purple tulips, and you are good to go! Am sun and afternoon shade will suit most of those just fine.

Gently remove the plant from the hole. Turn upside down and use a knife to cut a slice in the bottom , about 2". While you have it out use your fingers to loosen the dirt around the side of the root ball. Replant , ( bending back the two halves) mulch and water well. That has answered your question. However there are more things to consider. Azaleas and Rhododendrons like good humus rich soil , they have shallow roots and will dry out easy. They need to be planted on the north or east side of the house. If they get full sun, they will not do well and maybe die. You should water occasionally , when needed, allow to dry, but do not go for weeks or months without water, Only a day long soaking rain will count. If you had a bad winter, ( lots of very cold wind) the leaves will dry out, and brown. ALSO ---- Never add fertilizer to a sick plant, ( thank you Billie) IMHO - I never use M Grow. It could do more harm than good if not properly applied. One last thing- if this is an existing plant and the leaves have turned faded green to brown, it may have an insect - ( turn leaves upside down and look for black spots) If yes - that the leaves to a Garden Center and ask for the chemical needed to spray. Be prepared ! If you have clay soil, find another plant that does well, in clay - not an azalea!