I doubt if it is the variety. PJM is tolerant of cold, heat, sun, and shade. It could be the soil has poor drainage which is death to most any rhododendron. There are a number of different causes for curled leaves: 1) In the heat of the day, most rhodies will curl the leaves in a defensive manner to protect the stomata from dessication. Do not mistake the normal wilting action caused by extreme heat or cold as an indication of a problem. It is normal and will go away when milder temperatures return. Only water when necessary and in hot weather always err on the dry side, but don't hesitate to water plants that look wilted in the morning. In hot weather it is normal for rhododendrons to look slightly wilted in the heat of the day, but if they look wilted in the morning, then they are too dry. Watering may be needed in winter or summer. 2) If the root ball is not thoroughly soaked when planting, it will be dry as a bone inside and never accept moisture. This is especially true of field grown plants. Rhododendron guru Harold Greer noted: "Quite often a plant will get completely dry and then no matter how much water you apply, the rootball will just keep shedding it. The top of the soil may seem wet, and the soil around the plant may even be very wet, but the actual rootball of the plant is bone dry. This is especially true for newly planted rhododendrons, and it is the major reason for failure, or at least less than great success with that new plant. It is hard to believe that a plant can be within mere inches of a sprinkler that has been running for hours and still be dry, yet it can be SO TRUE!" 3) Phytophthora Dieback, Phytophthora cactorum: The fungus Phytophthora causes one of the most common disease problems in the landscape for rhododendrons and azaleas. This fungus is a "water mold," and thrives in poorly drained or wet conditions. A wilted plant is usually the first sign of trouble. Rhododendron leaves will curl inward and droop. Drought can cause similar symptoms. Roots of affected plants appear soggy or blackened, and the outer portion of the root easily pulls away from the inner portion.. Crown rot causes the lower portions of the stem to have a brown discoloration of the wood near the soil line. This disease is favored in poorly drained areas or when plants are set too deeply. Plants may remain without symptoms until further stressed from drought or flooding.. Azaleas. Resistant: R. sanctum, R. simsii (Indian azalea), R. yedoense var. poukhanense (Korean azalea), 'Corrine,' 'Fakir,' 'Fred Cochran,' 'Glacier,' 'Hampton Beauty,' 'Higasa,' 'Merlin,' 'Polar Sea,' 'Rose Greeley'. Moderately resistant: 'Alaska,' 'Chimes,' 'Eikan,' 'Jan Cochran,' 'Morning Glow,' 'New White,' 'Pink Gumpo,' 'Pink Supreme,' 'Rachel Cunningham,' 'Red Wing,' 'Shinkigen,' 'Sweetheart Supreme'. Rhododendrons. Resistant: 'Caroline,' 'Martha Isaacson,' 'Pink Trumpet,' 'Prof. Hugo de Vries,' 'Red Head,' R. davidsonianum, R. delavayi, R. glomerulatum, R. hyperythrum, R. lapponicum, R. occidentale, R. poukhanense, R. pseudochrysanthum, R. quinquefolium and R. websterianum. Do not set new plants any deeper than the original soil level. Planting in raised beds is suggested. Firm the soil slightly at the base of the planting hole to prevent the plant from settling into the bed. Do not plant azalea and rhododendron plants into sites where plants have previously died from root rot. Even resistant plants may succumb under these conditions. The fungus survives in the soil and cannot be eradicated once an area is infected. 4) Phytophthora Root Rot, Phytophthora cinnamomi: This is a serious, widespread and difficult-to-control fungus disease affecting a wide range of plants . The symptoms of Phytophthora root rot vary with the cultivar. Some cultivars fail to grow or grow very slowly with pale green foliage and may die after several years. Others suddenly wilt and die within a few weeks. Roots are reddish-brown, brittle and often limited to the upper portion of the media in a container or very close to the soil surface (upper 2 inches). The reddish-brown discoloration advances to the larger roots and eventually to the lower part of the main stem. Phytophthora root rot is favored by high soil moisture and warm soil temperatures. The disease does not occur as frequently and may not be as severe on well-drained sandy soils as in heavy clays or poorly drained soils, etc. The disease is common and severe in areas where run-off water, rainwater from roofs, etc. collects around plant roots. Setting woody plants deeper than the soil level in the nursery or container, over-watering plants, or long periods of heavy rain also favor disease develop especially in shallow soils with underlying rock or compacted hard pans. Phytophthora root rot must be prevented as chemicals are often ineffective in controlling this disease after aboveground symptoms appear.

Leaf spots have several origins: * Brown, reddish-brown or purplish leaf spots that occur on many cultivars, including R. 'Blue Ensign' and R. 'Mrs. G. W. Leak', are physiological and not disease caused. These spots are generally purplish and are inherent in the cultivar. Environmental stress may increase their appearance. They do no harm to the plant. * Some leaf spots are caused by a virus thought to be a potexvirus, the most common ailment being called necrotic ring spot [ http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=1241 ]. The symptoms are reddish-brown rings or spots on the leaves. It generally occurs only on the two year leaves of a few rhododendron cultivars such as R. 'Unique', or on Kalmia latifolia. It also appears on the first year foliage of some R. 'Loderi' clones. Little is known about the disease and a does not seem to spread from one cultivar to another. No control is known or generally necessary. * Leaf spotting can also be caused by chemical injury, such as drift from cleaners, paints, or chemicals used to kill moss on roofs. Sometimes the results of such injury may not show up for weeks or months. * There are a number of leaf spots or burns caused by fungi such as Botryis, Pestalotia, Phyllosticta, Septoria and others. Many are secondary infections happening after mechanical damage or environmental stress, such as sunburn, drought, winter damage or windburn. They generally occur during wet weather and many times are self limiting with drier weather. Good sanitation is helpful, so remove brown and fallen leaves. Also provide good air circulation. Spraying with Benomyl or similar fungicide can be useful, but is frequently not necessary. Phyllosticta is a fungus found on wild as well as cultivated rhododendron. Spots are dark brown, zonate, and frequently cover half the leaf area. The spot's upper surface may feel bumpy due to the fungal fruiting bodies (pycnidia). Control: Kocide DF or the Mancozeb-based products: Fore 80 WP, Pentathlon DF, Protect T/O, Microcop, Spectro 90 WDG (chlorothalonil plus thiophanate methyl) or Zyban WSB (Not to be confused with the smoking cessation drug) Phomopsis rhododendri symptoms vary from leaf spots to chlorosis and then browning of leaves which then wilt. Browning streaks extend down the stem to a wound. Fungicides such as metalaxyl (Subdue) should control an outbreak. Sanitation and applying a fungicide after pruning may provide control. Small bright yellow spots is a symptom of azalea rust, Puccininastrum vaccinii, a fungal disease. Orange-red pustules containing spores form on the lower surface of the leaf. This rust is only sporadically severe and typically infects deciduous azaleas. Control by avoiding those hybrids and species which are very susceptible to rust. Good air circulation is helpful. Triadimefon seems to help, but may not be registered for use on rhododendrons. Light green or yellowish patches on leaves sometimes accompanies by brown spots on the back side of leaves is a sign of rhododendron powdery mildew (Microsphaera azaleae). One of the puzzling aspects of this fungal problem is the fact that two different affected rhododendrons vary in appearance. Rhododendron cultivar 'Unique,' for instance, shows almost no upper leaf changes, other than occasional very faint lighter yellowish areas, while the underside of the leaves will be completely covered in brown spots. A deep green leaf may begin to show lighter green patches, and these areas will gradually become more yellow. Another cultivar, 'Virginia Richards,' gets brownish purple spots on both tops and bottoms of leaves. This common disease is named rhododendron powdery mildew despite how little the symptoms resemble the familiar fungal disease often seen on roses and azaleas. Usually the disease doesn't produce the familiar white powder-like spores, although late in the summer some may become visible. The disease manifests instead as color changes in the leaves, followed by defoliation toward the end of the growing season. Many rhododendrons, if basically healthy, will coexist with the disease and seem to outgrow or at least survive the symptoms. Last year's leaves, once they have been hit by the disease, will always have it, with symptoms persisting from year to year until the leaves drop off. High relative humidity at night and low relative humidity during day with 70-80 F (22-27 C) temperatures is ideal for the disease to flourish. * A number of insects cause leaf spots: Yellow mottling on the upper surface of leaves and black sooty mold and transparent insects on the bottom are symptoms of Azalea whitefly (Pealius spp.) and Rhododendron whitefly (Dialeurodes spp.). They are more prevalent on certain varieties and on plants grown in protected areas. These small white flying insects look like an aphid with wings and suck on the underside of foliage, leaving white spots where it has been. Heavy infestations cause the margins of terminal leaves to cup. These infested leaves will eventually turn yellowish and appear wilted. The lower leaves become covered with honeydew, followed by sooty mold (a black coating). To check for the presence of whiteflies, shake the terminals of white azaleas to flush out adult whiteflies which look like tiny white moths. Examine the lower surfaces of leaves for the presence of nymphs, which are flat, yellowish green, and resemble scale insects. All stages occur on the under sides of leaves. This whitefly is usually limited to varieties of the snow azalea, Rhododendron mucronatum. If the infestation is light, little or no plant symptoms are evident, and if beneficial insects are present, spray the undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil at the 2%summer rate. If the infestation is heavy use a registered residual insecticide such as Malathion, Diazinon or Orthene. Whitish specks on the upper surface of leaves and dark spots varnish-like on the bottom are symptoms of rhododendron lace bugs, Stephanitis rhododendri, and azalea lace bugs, Stephanitis pyrioides, small insects with transparent wings on under-surface of leaves.. This insect hatches early in spring as the new foliage begins to mature and its numbers may build to damaging levels with successive generations. Lace bugs reach their peak in late summer and do their worst in sunny, exposed sites. Spiders are important predators of lace bugs and since they shy away from sunny, hot places, plant your azaleas where there is some shade. Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or a systemic insecticide may spare your azaleas the damage if applied in spring when the first hatchlings are noticed. Care must be taken to spray the lower surfaces of the leaves where the lace bugs live. Moving a plant to an area with more shade may alleviate the problem. Lace bugs are more prevalent on certain varieties. The following azalea cultivars have resistance to azalea lace bug: Dawn, ÂPink Star, ÂEreka, ÂCavalier, ÂPink Fancy, ÂDram, ÂSeigei, ÂMacrantha, ÂSalmon Pink, ÂElsie Lee, ÂRed Wing, Sunglow and ÂMarilee. Small white spots on the underside of leaves and small white flies on under-surface of leaves may indicate in infestation of Azalea whitefly (Pealius spp.) and Rhododendron whitefly (Dialeurodes spp.). They are more prevalent on certain varieties and on plants grown in protected areas. These small white flying insects look like an aphid with wings and suck on the underside of foliage, leaving white spots where it has been. Heavy infestations cause the margins of terminal leaves to cup. These infested leaves will eventually turn yellowish and appear wilted. The lower leaves become covered with honeydew, followed by sooty mold (a black coating). To check for the presence of whiteflies, shake the terminals of white azaleas to flush out adult whiteflies which look like tiny white moths. Examine the lower surfaces of leaves for the presence of nymphs, which are flat, yellowish green, and resemble scale insects. All stages occur on the under sides of leaves. This whitefly is usually limited to varieties of the snow azalea, Rhododendron mucronatum. If the infestation is light, little or no plant symptoms are evident, and if beneficial insects are present, spray the undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil at the 2%summer rate. If the infestation is heavy use a registered residual insecticide such as Malathion, Diazinon or Orthene.

Yes all rhodies, and all evergreens for that matter, drop oldest leaves, but what counts as 'oldest' varies with variety. PJMs are one-year rhodies, individual leaves only live about a year before dropping off. They can be kinda sparse in late winter-early spring as the oldest leaves are dropping while new leaves are coming out. They don't go completely bare, but it can be close. Other varieties are two-year or three-year rhodies.

Finally got some rain here and things look much better. Amazing what a nice rain will do. I haven't noticed leaf burn from misting plants in hot weather, even using cold water direct from the hose. I wonder if it could be the chlorine or other minerals in the water that would cause that? Maybe Wilt-pruf was a problem too with leaf burn. I've never used that but thought it was meant for winter use. I know that you aren't supposed to use oil spray during high temperatures. Same here with Bambusa: no leaf curl. I have a few Dendrocalamus seedlings. The D. strictus never curls, but 1 of my D. calostachys curls in the heat while another does not. Maybe it's due to root/rhizome systems but looks to be mostly genetic. I suppose I have my plants spoiled too much and should water every other day instead to encourage deeper root growth. I find myself watering almost automatically when I see leaf curl. Thanks.