Did you get your soil test done at the ag center? They can tell you what the results mean whether you did or not.

The ag center? I got the test from the extension office and mailed it to the University of Fl in Gainsville.

It means that you only need nitrogen, LOTS of potassium, and micronutrients. Adding additional nutrients will make your problems worse.

We call it the ag center. It is the agricultural center. Same thing as the UF extension office. I think magnesium and calcium are micronutrients.

Zackey, you are incorrect. The six macronutrients are: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S).

Thanks Stevea and Zackey.
Zackey, I called the local extension office and they didn't have a clue. So I will call the University of Fl extension. I sent an email to them but they didn't respond.

I thought that UF soil tests don't include calcium (the solvent they use is not in the soil, so the Ca reported is not realy available)?
It sounds like you need to leach the soil. The only good results you had were th K and pH.

I just checked soil test results in Solutions For Your Life (this is a Univ. of Fl website). They list calcium as something they test for. It's a shame the person you talked to didn't direct your call to the horticultural agent. That person could have easily answered all of your questions.

I just recieved my soil sample results back from A&L Great Lakes Lab. Like most of FL my organic matter is low to very low, I was concerned my Ca was low but its normal 7.1 pH. Having trouble with my tomatos, I think its blossom end rot and there was a calcium def. I hate visiting Citrus County Extension Office, they are sooooooooooooooo lost.

Bob, yes, I agree I need to leach the soil. In my research it seems that for the levels that I have it could take 3 years to get it back to normal levels. But I'm not sure that was in sand where it happens faster.
Zackey, I agree. I have tried a couple of emails. I think I need to try to get someone on the phone if I can get past the menus.
Vegtech, I hear you about the local extension agency. I called and they directed me to a book about growing roses. I have been studying growing roses in S. Fl. for 13 years. Not exactly what I needed.

What sort of problems are the roses experiencing?

6 established roses are doing fine, as are other plants, including new plantings. It is when I try to plant a new rose, even on fortuniana, it just fails to thrive, no growth, looks unhealthy.

Im not a rose expert (I am growing belinda's dream in a container on my patio and its doing great, but its my first) so go easy on my question: fortuniana is the rootstock variety?
BTW are they bare root, or in pot? In order to avoid shock with fruit trees, we always dug a very big hole and mixed the natural dirt with bagged topsoil (no fert) and it worked great. You might want to try that and see if it helps establish your plants more, and get accustomed to the high fertility soil.

Bob, yes, fortuniana is the rootstock variety. It is highly recommended for any in ground roses in Fl because it resists nematodes. They are all potted. Big hole is good idea. I know I don't make the holes big enough even though shoveling it seems huge.

I'm so sad that your extension offices are so clueless. I have lived in 2 places and they were so helpful to me. I wish you could report them to someone.

Actually Zackey, I sort of did, even though I didn't intend to. When I contacted Univ. of Fl lab where they did the test and asked for help interpreting them, they referred me to my local extension agent. I told them that I had already tried and they were clueless and told me I should be a book about roses. They quickly said they would see if they could get someone in their office to call me so I might get some help after all from them.