What the compost would do to the soil test will depend on when you applied the compost and how soon after you sampled the soil for that test. If the sampling was done in less than 6 months about the only thing that would be affected would be the level of organic matter, the humus, because it takes time for your soil bacteria to make available the nutrients that are in compost. Given your numbers I would not add anything more to the garden.
The Blood meal or fish meal or cottonseed meal are pretty soluble sources of Nitrogen that more than likely will not be needed, and cottonseed meal may well be from Genetically Engineered cotton. The rest will be in forms that require the soil bacteria to convert into useable nutrients that will not be available to plants this growing season anyway.

Your sample is better than mine was when I 1st started. Was this soil used for growing before?

You could plant without adding a thing IMO. Compost is the safest amendment you can add and will not radically change what you have. Which is good.

Watch your plants thru the season, they will tell you how they like your soil but don't forget to include any sun or lack of sun in your observations. I think they'll do fine.

I am not sure which reading is your Ph but either is acceptable. So I would avoid adding any lime or wood ashes bc IMO your Ph will rise gently.

If you want another sample - do one in the fall. Can I ask what lab it was done at?

ps. I have been known to send a sample of my compost for testing. Who knows what the county puts in theirs or where it comes from.

Just seconding the other answers --- depends on what you're adding. I live in an oak/hickory woods so I have more leaves than you can imagine. Spent leaves have very little fertilizer content --- nitrogen is about gone. They would be very mildly acidic, but more garden plants like that. Grass clippings (fresh) would up the nitrogen, but would break down quickly.

Just wondering, but where do you get tests done?

Thanks for the responses - that's exactly what I wanted to hear! :) Compost is king.

I'm still curious to know exactly what will change in my soil test, but I guess the factor of nutrient release over time will make that difficult to determine. I'll probably still test again in the fall, but at that point my plants will also have used some nutrients from the garden, so determining the specific effect of the compost will be difficult.

gumby: the specific soil I tested was converted from lawn last July/August, and had a largely unsuccessful fall garden attempt grown in it. That's all. (this year I made the plot bigger.)

I think my pH is the 6.1 number. I'm not too worried about the compost being more than leaves/grass/yard waste and the occasional red bull can because that's what I can see in the less finished bits, and my town is pretty small so I believe the guy in charge is telling me the truth about the components. I still might get it tested at some point, just out of curiousity, but I certainly believe its worth the price!

gumby and takadi: you guys are worrying me. Is there something strange/unusual/wrong about my test results?

I got it done through Peaceful Valley Farm Supply; they use a lab in California. I now realize it was a bit overly expensive, but I was ordering from them anyway.

Thanks again, everyone,

~Emily

Here is a link that might be useful: PVFS Soil Test

Tree leaves, crumpled into distilled water and left to sit for 24 hours, will test with a pH of between 3.0 and 4.0, but over time the leaves along with compost will help your soil. After 35 some years of adding nothing but compost and shredded leaves my soils pH has gone from 5.7 to 7.2.

Just a note on how to tell what is becoming available when: Nitrate cycles through the warmer months of the year and is the most readily available source of N needed by most vegetables. There are some exceptions like corn which can take up significant amounts of ammonium. So, if one wants to track the available nitrate through the growing season, take regular soil samples throughout the season and submit them for nitrate analysis only. I would suggest 6-8" deep except for the deep rooted crops like corn which would benefit from a subsoil sample also.

If you wanted to compare 2 different treatments through the year like corn gluten vs bloodmeal it would be very simple and informative to do. Just remember, when sampling soil for nitrate, the samples must be completely dried out ASAP or else the nitrate content will change giving you erroneous results. Also remember to sample properly getting a representitive sample of the area(s), I use a soil probe which makes this very easy to do. One last comment on testing different treatments, do a separate soil tests in your treatment areas before the treatments begin also to know what you started with as those values may be quite different.

Knowledge doesn't always come cheap.